Come wander through our festive nursery to pick out Christmas Trees, wreaths, gorgeous holiday plants and cut greens to naturally decorate your home this holiday season! Custom wreaths are available.
Decorate your home with these classic holiday flowers this holiday season!
Nothing like cold weather to make us want to make our homes cozy and decorate for the holidays. Stop by Vineyard Gardens Nursery for inspirations on decorating naturally this season! We have beautiful cut Winterberry, Poinsettia’s, Amaryllis bulbs, Christmas trees, wreaths and much more!
It’s the season for giving thanks and we are so thankful for our amazing team here at Vineyard Gardens! We could not do this without each and every one of our hardworking staff. These fabulous portraits were documented by the talented Keith Kurman, our resident photographer and landscape designer. Please visit our ABOUT page to meet our team!
Fall colors are in their full glory!
An idyllic day at Vineyard Gardens. Fall in all it’s glory! Thank you for all your support. We had a great turnout and beautiful day! Thank you to Keith Kurman for photographing the event in all its splendor.
Come join us this coming Saturday Oct 6 from 11am to 3pm for our annual Harvest Festival! There will be food, nature crafts, live music and garden tours. Fun for the whole family! FREE!!
Live music by the The Princess Poo-Pooly Ukelele Group
Food: Chili, hot dogs, corn bread, caramel apples and pumpkin pie
END OF SEASON SALE!
PERENNIALS 20% - 50% OFF
TREES & SHRUBS 20% OFF
ROSES 20% - 50% OFF
PERENNIALS 20% - 50% OFF
TREES & SHRUBS 20% OFF
ROSES 20% - 50% OFF
We have an abundant supply of garlic in stock! It is a wonderful crop that is planted in the fall and harvested the following summer. It is easy to grow and requires very little space in the garden. Garlic is also a natural pest repellent!
- Best time to plant garlic is in the fall. Plant 6 to 8 weeks before first expected frost date.
- Plant in a spot that has not recently been used for garlic or other plants from the onion family.
- Plant in a sunny spot with well drained soil.
- Work several inches of compost or manure and fertilizer into the bed.
- Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
- Space the cloves 4-6" apart. Rows should be spaced one foot apart. The cloves should be planted with the pointed end up and the blunt end down. Push each clove 1-2" into the ground, firm the soil around it, and water the bed if it is dry.
- After planting, lay down a protective mulch of straw. The mulch should be approximately 4 inches thick. Mulch will help prevent the garlic roots from being lifted out of the ground by freezing and thawing.
- Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed.
- In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
- When the leaves begin to grow, it is important to feed the garlic plants to encourage good growth. Gently work in Osmocote into the soil near each plant.
- Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring to encourage bulb growth.
- Keep well weeded. Garlic doesn’t do well with competition.
- Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
- Fertilize again just before the bulbs begin to swell usually early May.
- By June remove any remaining mulch and stop watering. The garlic will store better if you allow the soil around the bulbs to dry out.
- Harvest garlic when most of the leaves have turned brown. This usually occurs in mid-July to early August.
- Dig up bulbs (don't pull), being careful not to bruise them. If the bulbs are left in the ground too long, they may separate and will not store well.
- Lay the garlic plants out to dry for 2 or 3 weeks in a shady, dry spot for two weeks.
- Do not get the bulbs wet or break them apart, or the plants won't last as long.
- The bulbs are cured and ready to store when the wrappers are dry and papery and the roots are dry.
- Either tie the garlic in bunches (4 to 6), braid the leaves, or cut the stem a few inches above the bulb. Hang the braids and bunches or store the loose bulbs on screens or slatted shelves in a cool, airy location. You may want to set aside some of the largest bulbs for replanting in the fall.
- During the winter months check your stored garlic bulbs often, and promptly use any that show signs of sprouting.
At Vineyard Gardens nursery we have a wonderful selection of Miscanthus Maiden Grass. It a low maintenance, deer resistant ornamental grass commonly planted in groups along a border or for privacy screening; along edges of beds; and excellent for container planting. It has fine-textured, silvery-green foliage that turn golden-bronze in autumn and has spectacular plumes in late summer.
How to Grow Maiden Grass
Maiden grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread. The grass requires well-drained soil, but is tolerant of excess moisture, dry conditions, acidic soils and even hard clay sites. Propagation of ornamental maiden grasses is through division. You may dig up a mature plant in early spring before new growth has appeared. Cut the root base into two to four sections and plant each as a new plant. It is important to do it when the center of the plant is showing signs of dying out, an indicator that it is time to divide the grass.
Easily grown in average, well-drained soils with consistent moisture. Water deeply, regularly during first growing season to establish an extensive root system; reduce frequency when established. Hard prune and apply fertilizer in late winter to early spring just before new shoots appear. Pruning time: early spring.
PLANT OF THE WEEK : HYDRANGEA 20% OFF
HELPFUL TIPS ON GROWING HYDRANGEA
Hydrangeas have a beautiful classical elegance and charm that is very representative of Martha's Vineyard. They are easy to cultivate, tolerate almost any soil, and produce abundant blooms throughout the summer and fall. Hydrangea color ranges from shades of blue, pink, lavender to white. They are very versatile and can be planted in group plantings to shrub borders to containers. At Vineyard Gardens we carry loads of Hydrangeas! We sell them in 5 gal, 10 gal and 20 gallon pots.
- Plant in spring or fall.
- Plant in full sun in the morning, with some afternoon shade. Bigleaf hydrangeas will grow and bloom in partial shade.
- Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and 2 to 3 times as wide.
- Set the plant in the hole and fill it half full with soil. Water. After water is drained, fill the rest of the hole with soil.
- Water thoroughly.
- Space multiple hydrangeas about 3 to 10 feet apart.
- For the first two years after planting and during any drought, be sure hydrangeas get plenty of water. Leaves will wilt if the soil is too dry.
- If your soil is light or sandy, it’s best to fertilize hydrangea once a year in late winter or spring. Otherwise if your soil is rich you do not need to fertilize, too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms.
- Bigleaf and Oakleaf Hydrangea are pruned AFTER the flowers fade in the summer.
- Mopheads: It’s best not to deadhead (remove faded blooms). Leave them over the winter and cut them back in early spring (to the first healthy pair of buds).
- Lacecaps: Deadhead, cut down to the second pair of leaves below the flower head.
- Flower buds form in the late summer and flower the following season. Avoid pruning after August 1.
- Only cut away dead wood in the fall or very early spring.
- To prune, cut one or two of the oldest stems down to the base to encourage branching and fullness.
- If the plant is old, neglected, or damaged, prune all the stems down to the base. You’ll lose the flowers for the upcoming season, but also rejuvenate the plant for future years.
- Panicle and Smooth hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties blossom on the current season’s stems.
- Prune in the late winter when the plant is dormant. This means that if the buds are killed during the winter, the plant will produce new buds in the spring which will produce blooms.
- In general, prune only dead branches, and do not prune to “shape” the bush.
PLANT OF THE WEEK : ROSES 20% off!
From bud to bloom to falling petals, no garden, from cottage to contemporary, is really complete without at least a few of these dreamy flowering shrubs. A variety of growth habits, sizes, colors, and textures means there’s at least one that can fill any niche in the home landscape. And, breeders have made improvements in disease resistance so they’re less work, too. Here are five of our favorite ways to use them.
Sure you could plant an evergreen or conifer, but taller shrub roses planted close together make a beautiful and effective hedge to create privacy or to define property lines. Lower growers are spectacular used to outline a path or to divide one part of the garden from another.
The secret to a dense hedge is planting shrubs closely, about 2′ to 3′ apart on center.
Here are three to try:
Parade of abundant flower clusters (white petals that gradually intensify to a deep pink with red edges) provide season-long color. Full sun. Up to 4′ tall. Zone: 5 – 9
Outstanding disease resistance and proven to thrive coast to coast in heat and humidity as well as dry, hot summers. Full sun. Up to 5′ tall. Zone: 4 – 9
PLUMP-UP A MIXED BORDER
Roses can play a supporting role, too. Look for taller varieties to add height and scale to the back of a border, and free-flowering, mid-sized shrubs to amp-up the summer show of mixed evergreen foundation plantings.
Get a power-planted look by massing two or more groups of 3 roses in a long border or along the foundation.
These are fat and sassy:
Continuous bloom with clean, glossy, dark green foliage that’s more resistant to hot, humid temperatures. Great for the back of a border. Full sun. Up to 5′ tall. Zone 5 – 9
Upright bouquets of fully-double, red roses on fuss-free shrubs that endure long, hot summers with unwavering blooming zeal. Full sun. Up to 5′ tall. Zone 4 – 9
PROVIDE VERTICAL IMPACT
Climbers and ramblers add interest to otherwise plain walls and fences, and provide shady, flowery cover to arbors and pergolas. Use shorter varieties on smaller trellises, pillars, and tuteurs.
The secret to getting the most from climbing roses is to plant a second kind of climber that blooms at a different time along with it at a ratio of 2-to-1 (two roses for every secondary vine). (Clematis, jasmine, even grapes, are good companions.)
These are long-legged beauties:
Tall, vigorous rose with small buds that open to fragrant, light pink, double blooms in large sprays. So romantic! Full sun. Up to 20′ long. Zone: 4 – 11
Blooms early & continues throughout the warm season with fire-engine red flowers retaining vibrant color without fading. Full sun. Up to 12′ long. Zone: 5 – 10
ADD ELEGANCE TO A CONTAINER
Whether one eye-popping large shrub in a large container, or one of the new compact roses alone or snuggled up with a mix of perennials or annuals, potted- up roses provide solutions for places where it’s difficult to plant such as hardscape or around swimming pools.
Roses set deep roots so be sure to provide a container that’s at least 18″ deep and repot with fresh soil every three years.
Perfect for pots:
Ideal for a large container–or a row of containers for a flowery privacy border. Full sun. Up to 5′ tall. Zone: 4 – 9
Sheer, soft pink semi-double blooms on a compact form combined with lacy foliage. Nearly carefree color for patio containers. Full sun. Up to 2 ft. tall. Zone: 4 – 10
THE MOST ROMANTIC GROUNDCOVER
Mass these surprisingly tough shrubs in that sunny space where other plants might struggle. Edge a driveway, surround a swimming pool, or cover a slope with groundcover roses that grow dense and help keep down weeds.
When using roses as groundcovers, remember to line the bed with weed-barrier fabric (available at garden centers) before planting and top with mulch.
These are problem solvers:
Easy-care, vigorous and cold-hardy; Low spreading habit is perfect for smaller garden borders, or along paths. Full sun. Up to 2′ tall. Zone: 4 – 11
Peachy-amber blossoms are fragrant with excellent heat and humidity tolerance. Full sun. Up to 3′ tall. Zone: 4 – 10
Keep Roses Happy:
Start by choosing the right rose. A large shrub rose in a too-small container or a rambler on a less than sturdy pergola can be a battle not worth having.
Roses love to eat; feed them about 3 weeks after the first flush of leaves and again just after the first flowers have faded.
While tolerant of drier conditions in subsequent years, water regularly during the first season;1-inch per week per shrub depending on your soil.
Mulch like you mean it! Apply 1-3 inches of well-aged organic mulch in spring and again in fall.
Major prune in winter or early spring but summer pruning can keep flowers coming on. Prune stems just above a set of five leaves.
Coral Bells are in the genus Heucheras and contain over 35 native species. They have colorful foliage ranging from yellow to green to multiple shades of red and purple depending on cultivar. They are a wonderful foliage perennial and since their blooms last only 3 to 4 weeks, it is important to enjoy the gorgeous foliage that sticks around for the remaining 6 to 8 months. Some Heucheras are even semi evergreen. The leaves arise from a central rosette and their graceful bell shaped blooms rise high above the foliage.
The foliage of most cultivars reaches 8 to 12 inches in height with a spread of 1 to 2 feet wide. When blooming, the flower stalks reach 1 to 3 feet tall. The Villosa hybrids are larger than the Americana hybrids.
- Plant in partial shade or filtered sun. The yellow and red ones can take more sun. Heucheras grow naturally in wooded areas as well as arid rocky regions in the midwest, making it a suitable addition to plant along woodland edges, rock gardens or in natural gardens.
- Try planting alongside the foliage of ferns, caladiums and hostas. They’re also beautiful with shade loving perennials such as bleeding heart, iris and astilbe.
- Coral Bells grow well in containers. Keep plant moist in well-draining soil—preferably enriched with compost or other type of organic matter.
- Heucheras are DEER REISISTANT!
- Hummingbirds often visit heuchera flowers.
HELPFUL TIPS ON GROWING HOSTAS
Hostas are a shade loving perennial with blue, purple or white blooms. There are a variety of Hostas available differing in their leaf color, shape, size, and texture. They are easy to maintain and are shade tolerate. They are also popular among hummingbirds.
- Plant dormant, bare root or potted
- Dormant or bare root Hostas should be planted with the crown even to the surrounding soil with the growing tips visible at the soil surface
- Plant potted Hostas even with the potted soil level
- Water until soil is moist
- In spring when growth emerges apply fertilizer
- Keep plant moist
- Place mulch around plant to retain moisture
- Remove flower stalks after bloom to encourage new growth
- In the fall when the leaves brown, clean up around the plant to control for disease
HELPFUL TIPS ON GROWING ASTILBE
Astilbes are deer resistant perennial flowers that bloom in spring and summer. They have soft feathery purple, lavender, red, white or multiple shades of pink blooms with glossy fern like foliage. Some Astilbes have bronze foliage and the very newest Astilbes have deep brown foliage. They grow well in shady areas were other flowers won't thrive. Their flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet and their height ranges from 6 inches to 3 1/2 feet, depending on the variety. Astilbe's tend to attract butterflies. At Vineyard Gardens we carry 25-30 different cultivars.
- Astilbe chinensis Pumila forms a ground cover and the blooms rise about 8-12“ above the foliage.
- A couple of dwarf Astilbes are Sprite and Hennie Graafland.
- Astilbe Ostrich Plume is a tall pink Astilbe whose flowers are pendulous instead of upright like other Astilbes.
- Astilbe Superba is one of the tallest pinks.
- Plant in shade to part shade
- Plant in a loamy humus rich soil
- Water deeply to promote deep roots
- Protect from hot afternoon sun
- Regularly check your Astilbes to make sure they are moist
- Astilbes spread quickly and form broad clumps.
- Apply organic fertilizer in the spring
- Divide the overgrown clumps every 3 to 4 years in the spring
- Removing the flower heads for cut flowers will not promote continued flowering
- At the end of bloom clip off any spent flower stems. Astilbes will continue to provide attractive foliage until fall
Dahlias are colorful flowers which generally bloom from midsummer to first frost. Dahlias come in a rainbow of colors and range in size from 2 to 10-inch blooms. Some varieties grow 4 to 5 feet tall. Best in full sun.
At Vineyard Gardens, we carry a variety of dahlias. We grow Redskin, Bishops Children and Collarette mix from seed. We also bring in 20-30 varieties in tubers. These are the best cut flower dahlias. They will grow 3-5 ft tall in one season and will produce many flowers per tuber. If planted early and deep enough they should not need staking. We sell the plants forced in pots to give our customers a head start and also sell the tubers in the retail store.
- Thomas Edison and Snow Country are our best sellers
- Ottos Thrill, Firepot and Karma fuschiana are also popular decorative types
- Tahiti Sunrise is a popular cactus dahlia with their incurved petals
HELPFUL TIPS ON GROWING DAHLIAS
Dahlias have tubers that thrive in good soil and respond well to feedings. With a well prepared soil-bed dahlias will grow quickly.
- Dig deep holes in full sun for dahlia tubers to be placed
- Enrich the soil with compost and work in a good organic fertilizer
- Arrange the tuber bunch with points facing down
- Firm the soil around and over the clump
- Set one or two stakes (with twine ready) to support the stems as they grow
- Water well
Staking is crucial when growing big dahlia plants. The beautiful foliage grows on brittle stems and heavy rain, wind or the weight of the flowers can break the plant.
Saving Dahlia Tubers in Fall
- Pull up the plants (once first frost hits and dahlia flower has died)
- Cut off the stems a few inches above the tuber
- Wash off the dirt
- Set the tubers in the sun to dry
- Once they're dry, put them in a paper bag with sawdust or peat moss
- Store them in a cool non-freezing spot in the cellar or garage until next spring
- In spring you can either divide them, at least 3 eyes per clump, or leave them whole for to achieve big growth.
Cutting Dahlia Flowers
To cut dahlias for your flower arrangements, choose whole stems and try to maintain the basic shape of your plant. It will quickly try to replace the branch you remove, and the buds will keep coming up until first frost.
HELPFUL TIPS ON GROWING SALVIA
There are over 900 species of salvias, both annuals and perennials. They are easy to grow, easy to care for, deer resistant, bloom abundantly and have long lasting blooms. Salvia are a wonderful garden perennials for honey bees, hummingbirds and butterflies!
- Salvias prefer full sun and well-drained soil.
- Dig a hole twice the diameter of the container the plant is in
- Mix in a 3-inch layer of compost
- Remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface.
- Space plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety.
- Carefully fill in around the plant and firm the soil gently.
- Water thoroughly.
- Add a thin layer of mulch around the plant to retain moisture and control weeds.
- Keep soil moist through the growing season.
- Remove faded blooms to encourage continuous bloom.
- Wait until new growth begins in early spring to remove old stems.
- Divide perennial salvias every 3 years. The best time to divide is in early spring, before new growth begins.