[PLANT PROFILE] HEUCHERA

June 15, 2026 Karen Logan

HEUCHERA

(CORAL BELLS)

Stars of the Shade Garden

When it comes to perennials that combine long-lasting beauty, versatility, and ecological benefits, few plants rival Heuchera, commonly known as Coral Bells. These North American natives are prized for their dazzling foliage and delicate blooms, making them a favorite in shade gardens, woodland edges, and even containers.

Not Just Pretty Leaves

While many gardeners love Heucheras for their richly colored leaves, from lime green to burgundy and even dark purple, their graceful flowers are not to be overlooked. Each summer, tall flower stalks rise above the foliage, blooming for 3-4 weeks with airy, bell-shaped flowers that attract hummingbirds. The flowers of Heuchera sanguinea give the plant its common name, Coral Bells, with vivid blooms native to warm, dry canyons in Mexico, Arizona, and New Mexico.

A Foliage Powerhouse

Heucheras are truly standout foliage plants. Their rosettes of textured leaves stick around from early spring through late fall. With a low, mounding habit, most varieties reach 8–12 inches in height and 1–2 feet in spread.

There has been an explosion of Heucheras cultivars in the last decade. Hybridization is common, due to the fact that the species often intergrade with one another. The increasingly popular Heucherellas (Heuchera × Tiarella) combine the best traits of both parent plants.

Try planting ground covers instead of mulching. They are just as effective, if not more so, at keeping out the weeds!

Heuchera americana ‘Dales Strain’, the one we do from seed.

Where & How to Plant

Light:

Most Heucheras thrive in partial shade or dappled sunlight, but many red and yellow-leafed varieties tolerate more sun.
In the Northeast, shade is usually best for optimal performance.

Soil & Water:

Plant in well-drained, compost-rich soil. Keep consistently moist, especially in containers.
Heucheras are ideal for woodland gardens, rock gardens, slopes, and as ground covers beneath trees and shrubs.

Heucheras are DEER REISISTANT!

Design Pairings & Garden Uses

Heucheras are beautiful alone but shine even more when paired with other foliage-rich or shade-loving perennials:

Great companions: Ferns, caladiums, hostas, bleeding hearts, iris, astilbe
Ideal uses: Mass plantings, underplanting for trees and shrubs, borders, container gardens, and ground cover alternatives to mulch
Try replacing traditional mulch with ground covers like Heuchera. Not only are they effective at suppressing weeds, they add beauty and habitat too.

Our Favorites

Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’: A cultivar with large green leaves and tall white blooms. Especially striking when planted in mass and blends beautifully with other plants.
Heuchera americana ‘Dale’s Strain’: One of several we grow from seed. It’s a reliable, low-maintenance ground cover under shrubs.

The diversity of Heucheras is greater than ever. There are 37 species of Heuchera and dozens of cultivars now available. Their ability to hybridize easily has led to a stunning array of colors and leaf textures, so whether you're designing a shade garden or a beautiful container, Coral Bells deliver beauty that lasts well beyond their bloom.

PERENNIAL GROUNDCOVERS

June 15, 2026 Karen Logan

Virginia Bluebells [photo by keith kurman]

LIVING MULCH:

Perennial

Groundcovers

When it comes to creating a low-maintenance landscape, low-growing, ground-hugging perennial plants are nature’s best defense against weeds. Instead of continually buying and spreading mulch every spring, planting a "living mulch" of groundcovers brings immediate color, rich textural interest, and vital food and shelter for local insects. They can even serve as a beautiful, low-input alternative to traditional grass lawns.

When you choose native groundcovers, care becomes even easier, requiring no supplemental fertilizer and only minimal watering once established. Many selections are fully evergreen, providing reliable winter coverage and essential erosion control. Whether you are dealing with a baking, full-sun slope or a deep, dry canopy of shade, there is a perfect groundcover for the job.

Try planting ground covers at the base of your shrubs instead of mulching. Ground covers are very effective at keeping weeds out and moisture in!

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Groundcovers for Shade to Part-Shade

These woodland-loving plants thrive in partial to full shade, great for planting under tree canopies and around established shrubs.

Exceptional Foliage

Native Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): A spectacular native beauty that features delicate, frosted foliage and airy spikes of white flowers in spring.
European Ginger (Asarum europaeum): A prized, slow-spreading perennial grown for its remarkably shiny, leathery, rounded leaves. It features hidden, jug-shaped spring flowers tucked entirely beneath the foliage that are uniquely pollinated by ants! It is reliably evergreen.
Barrenwort (Epimedium): A highly elegant, less-common groundcover that is incredibly tough once established, thriving effortlessly in dry shade where other plants struggle.
Pachysandra: While Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) is an industry standard, our favorite is our Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), a gorgeous Eastern US alternative with beautifully mottled, matte-green leaves. Both are excellent evergreen choices.
Wood Spurge (Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae): A highly deer-resistant, evergreen option that spreads vigorously via underground stolons. It sends up striking 18-inch stalks of chartreuse blooms in the spring and appreciates protection from the hot afternoon sun.

Spring Bloomers

Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum): A lovely, fine-textured carpet that covers the ground with small, starry white flowers from spring through early summer. It spreads vigorously via shallow side shoots, making it an ideal border accent. Because it isn't aggressive, spring-blooming bulbs can easily push right up through it.
Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica): A classic choice that forms large, breathtaking clumps of soft blue, bell-shaped flowers in the spring. Virginia Bluebells go completely dormant and disappear by mid-summer. Always plant them in combination with later-emerging perennials, which will seamlessly fill the empty space later in the season.
Native Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis): A stunning, trailing native groundcover in the dogwood family. It features classic white four-petaled flowers in late spring / early summer, followed by bright clusters of showy red autumn berries.

**Virginia Bluebells (*Mertensia virginica*)**

Native Ferns (Excellent Massers)

Ferns spread beautifully to create lush, architectural carpets in damp or dappled areas:

Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris): Tall, dramatic, and spreads rapidly via runners to fill large spaces.
Hay-Scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctiloba): A fast-spreading, native ground-covering fern that releases a beautiful aroma resembling fresh-cut hay when brushed against.
Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides): A glossy, deep green native fern that stays fully evergreen through the winter months.
And there are many more!

Groundcovers for Sun to Partial Shade

These sun-loving groundcovers are perfect for open borders, rock gardens, path edgings, and areas that get hit with hot afternoon sun.

Pussytoes (Antennaria spp.): A fantastic, low-growing native groundcover that thrives in dry, sunny, and nutrient-poor soils. It features soft, fuzzy, silver-green foliage that adds a beautiful, light-reflecting texture to the landscape. In the spring, it produces unique, soft white flower heads that resemble the pads of a cat's paw. It serves as a great native alternative to non-native lamb's ear and is exceptionally tough once established.
Creeping & Woolly Thymes (Thymus spp.): The ultimate choice for hot, sunny, well-drained spaces or planting between stepping stones.
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum calycinum): A true pollinator magnet that produces massive, cheerful yellow flowers decorated with explosive bursts of stamens. It spreads vigorously via underground stems and handles partial shade well, though more sun equals more flowers!
Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): An incredibly tough, classic native groundcover. It forms a low-profile, woody, evergreen mat that thrives in lean, sandy, coastal soils where little else will grow.
Prairie Smoke / Avens (Geum triflorum): An excellent, ultra-hardy ground cover. While the spring flowers are lovely, it is best known for its spectacular, feathery, pink neon seed heads that look like puffs of smoke rising from the garden bed.
Persicaria: A fantastic choice for late-season interest. This vigorous, stoloniferous spreader features an exceptionally long bloom window from July all the way into October.
Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis / Laurentia) & Pratia: Two fascinating, ultra-low, mat-forming plants that function beautifully as a lawn alternative, filling in completely around flagstones and handling light foot traffic.

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SUCCESSION

GARDENING

AS A GROUNDCOVER

While traditional groundcovers spread outward via stolons or runners to blanket a flat surface, there is another dynamic approach to coverage known as succession gardening. Instead of relying on a single plant to cover a patch of earth all year long, succession planting uses a choreographed sequence of growth where late-emerging, large-leafed perennials rise up to seamlessly replace early-season plants that have finished blooming and gone dormant.

Though these structural plants may not trail along the ground, they function perfectly as a groundcover by ensuring that the soil is never left bare, vulnerable to erosion, or open to opportunistic weeds. Even better, this layered, multi-species approach dramatically increases the overall biodiversity of the garden, offering a varied nectars and pollens for different local pollinators as the seasons shift.

The Great Dixter Inspiration

This sophisticated method of choreographing overlapping plant lifecycles is an old-world concept being perfected at the world-renowned Great Dixter House and Gardens in England, where Andrew completed an immersive internship. Andrew has been refining this technique, naturally weaving together plants to create this beautiful succession within our island ecosystem.

Gorgeous combination of Thalictrum ‘Elin,’ Aquilegia, Euphorbia x pseudovirgata and the leaf and seed pod of Paeonia delavayi

How it Works

The magic of succession gardening lies in pairing "ephemerals" plants that put on a spectacular early-spring show and then completely disappear in the summer heat with late-emerging structural companions. Instead of looking at yellowing bulb foliage or empty dirt patches, these late-blooming perennials push right through the fading greenery, covering it completely so you never have to cut it back manually.

Soft, Early-Season Coverups

Pair spring bulbs with soft, mounding textures that come up in early summer. Let the spring perennials foliage be naturally covered up by the expanding leaves of Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) or the dense, clean mounds of White Bloody Cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum 'Album').

The Woodland Understory Shift

True woodland ephemerals are built to bloom before the forest canopy leafs out, meaning they vanish entirely by mid-summer. Spring favorites like Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica), Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis), native Trilliums, and Shooting Stars (Dodecatheon) leave noticeable gaps when they go dormant. Succession plants that slowly emerge from the soil and then unfurl their leaves when the spring bloomers begin to fade covering up the empty space. Good succession plants are Hostas, Heuchera villosa 'Autumn Bride', Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense), Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) or Bigleaf Aster (Eurybia macrophylla).

Larger Structural Plants

Larger spring bulbs and structural perennials leave behind heavy, messy foliage that requires a more robust plant to successfully mask. Large bulbs like Daffodils (Narcissus), Camassia, and Autumn Crocus (Colchicum) can be easily hidden away using towering, architectural late-bloomers like Meadow Rue (Thalictrum), Goat's Beard (Aruncus), or Bugbane/Cohosh (Cimicifuga). A structural giant like Thalictrum will weave its wiry stems right up through the messy, collapsing bulb foliage, completely hiding it from view while throwing up airy lace-like blooms later in the summer.

Late-Season Plants

When mapping out your succession layout, these are some top late-emerging perennials to plant right alongside your spring bulbs and ephemerals to ensure continuous ground coverage:

For Architectural Foliage: Rodgersia, ornamental rhubarb (Rheum), and the smoky, feathery plumes of Bronze Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare 'Purpureum').
For Structural Summer Blooms: Burnet (Sanguisorbia), Monkshood (Aconitum), dramatic Foxgloves (Digitalis), and highly resilient Wood Spurge (Euphorbia).

By pairing the early risers with the late bloomers, your garden becomes a self-managing, living tapestry that protects the soil, smothers the weeds, adds vital food sources and keeps the landscape visually beautiful throughout the entire growing season!

NATIVE GROUNDCOVERS

ECOLOGICAL GARDENING

POLLINATOR GARDENING

June 10, 2026 Karen Logan

Cephalanthus occidentalis, Buttonbush [photo by karen blackerby logan]

POLLINATION

DYNAMICS

Generalists vs Specialists

Do you want your garden to come alive this summer with bees, butterflies, birds and beneficial insects?

To create a thriving sanctuary, let’s look closely at how nature feeds itself. In the world of pollination, insects generally fall into two different categories: generalists and specialists. Understanding the difference is the secret to unlocking local biodiversity in your backyard.

While many gardeners are familiar with generalist pollinators that visit any colorful flower, regional conservation research shows that a healthy ecosystem depends on specialist relationships as well. Think of generalist pollinators, like bumblebees or standard honeybees that are perfectly happy foraging across a massive variety of different flowers.

Specialists, on the other hand, are strictly tied to specific native plant families. According to data from the Vermont Center for Ecostudies (VCE), roughly 25% of our native bee species are pollen specialists. Over thousands of years, these insects have co-evolved alongside specific native plants. They require pollen from specific native plant genera to feed their larvae. Without these specific plants, their reproductive cycle fails. If that exact native plant isn't in your neighborhood, those specialist bees simply cannot survive. A garden filled with non-native flowers might look pretty, but to a quarter of our native pollinators, it is a food desert.

Pollination is complex, co-evolved partnerships between insects and their host plants.

Great Golden Digger Wasp on Monarda punctata Spotted beebalm one of it’s favorite native nectar sources [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Mason Bee (generalist) on High Bush Blueberry [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Monarch on Swamp Milkweed [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Larval Specialists

The Wild Seed Project highlights that specialization extends far beyond bees to butterflies, beetles and moths as well. While adult butterflies are nectar generalists, their caterpillars are strictly host-plant specific, meaning they can only digest the leaves of the exact native plants they co-evolved with. Because a female butterfly will only lay her eggs on these specific hosts, losing the plants means losing the butterflies entirely. The Monarch's total reliance on milkweed is the classic example, but hundreds of our local species share these exact same strict dependencies. Many native beetles are obligate host-plant specialists relying entirely on specific plant families for their food, shelter, and reproductive lifecycle.

Monarch caterpillar on Common Milkweed [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Monarch on Common Milkweed [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Moths, Beetles & Bats: Nightime Pollinators

Did you know that moths, beetles and bats are actually powerhouse pollinators? Recent research shows they are incredibly efficient at keeping our ecosystems healthy, tracking down native plants using specialized evening scents of specific native plants. This is where the magic of a native moon garden comes in. Curated specifically to come alive at dusk, storing the sun’s energy during the day and the flowers open up in the evening. A moon garden uses white or pale flowers and silvery foliage to reflect the moonlight, and their strong, sweet fragrances act as a natural runway guide for nocturnal pollinators. By planting native favorites like Evening Primrose, Sweet Pepperbush, and Swamp Milkweed, you can create an enchanting evening landscape that feeds the moths once the sun sets.

Clethra (Sweet Pepperbush) [photo by karen blackerby logan]

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The Magic of Pollination

Our pollinator friends are performing one of the most magical reproductive partnerships.

Flowers offer sweet nectar and protein-rich pollen as an invitation. As an insect lands to eat, sticky pollen grains hitch a ride on its fuzzy legs and body. When it flies to the next bloom, some of that pollen rubs off onto the female part of the flower (called the stigma). From there, a tiny microscopic miracle takes place: the pollen grain grows a tiny tube that tunnels all the way down the center of the flower (style) into the ovary, fertilizing the egg inside. That fertilized egg transforms into an embryo wrapped safely inside a seed. As the seeds develop, the flower's ovary swells up to protect them and that swollen structure is the fruit!

Take a Closer Look: Next time you bite into a fresh summer strawberry, take a peek at the outside. Those tiny "seeds" on the exterior, and the microscopic hairs attached to them, are the direct remnants of the exact moment a tiny pollinator visited that flower weeks ago!

[Videos] Allium buzzing with bees. Oak Leaf Hydrangeas on the Highline in NYC.

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Why Native

Plants Matter

By introducing native "keystone" plants into our yards we are actively protecting these ancient, irreplaceable relationships.

This beautiful, interconnected cycle is exactly why native plants matter so much. Because some pollinators rely on very specific plants to complete their life cycles, choosing native species is the single most important thing you can do for your landscape. Native plants have co-evolved alongside local pollinators for thousands of years, making them the absolute best hosts for supporting their life cycles.

Lately, there has been an inspiring surge of understanding around the importance of caring for the native ecosystem through native plants to protect our pollinators. More and more of our customers are looking to grow pollinator-friendly gardens and actively cultivate a healthy, native landscape right in their own backyards. To meet this need, horticulturalists are continually conducting ongoing research and field trials on plants that stand out as true pollinator favorites.

At Vineyard Gardens, we’re passionate about helping you create vibrant, pollinator-friendly gardens using native and well-researched perennials. Whether you're starting entirely fresh or enhancing an existing, established landscape, your choices make a real, measurable difference for pollinator health and biodiversity.

Not sure where to begin? Check out the Cape Cod Native Plants website for a fantastic online tool to help you select the right plants for your site conditions.

Learn more : Native Plant List / Cape & The Islands

Learn more: Native Plant Finder / National Wildlife Federation

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Pollinator

Power Plants:

Our Favorite Perennials

Here’s a list of powerhouse plants that will invite pollinators and energize your garden all season long:

Mondarda, Spotted Beebalm [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Native Pollinator Perennial :

Ageratum (Coelestinum)
Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)
Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium ‘Gateway’)
Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum)
Blazing Star (Liatris spicata)
Mallow ‘Rose’ (Hibiscus moscheutos)
Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis)
Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolius)
Woods Purple Aster (Eurybia divaricata)
Baptisia (Baptisia australis)
Beebalm (Monarda didyma)
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Cutleaf Coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata)
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia)

Pollinator Perennials:

Agastache (‘Kudos’ Coral, Ambrosia, Mandarin, Blue Fortune, Black Adder, Little Adder)
Bluebeard (Caryopteris)
Coneflower (Echinacea) – Sombrero Series, White Swan, Green Twister
Coreopsis – Solanna™ Bright Touch, UpTick™ Gold & Bronze
Goldenrod (Solidago)
Lavender (Lavandula)
Milkweed (Asclepias)
Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
Salvia
Perennial Sunflower (Helianthus)
Stonecrop (Sedum)
Yarrow (Achillea)

Sedum, Butterfly Milkweed, Quickfire Hydrangea

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POLLINATOR FRIENDLY SHRUBS

Native Pollinator Shrubs:

Lowbush Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium)
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
Beach Plum (Prunus maritima)
Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
Sweet Pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)
American Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ssp. canadensis)
Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)
Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregrina)
Willow (Salix)
Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)

Pollinator Shrubs:

Double File Viburnum (Viburnum plicatum)
Fothergilla
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
Ninebark (Physocarpus)
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum)

Buttonbush [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Purple Leaf Sand Cherry [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Elderberry [photo by karen blackerby logan]

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POLLINATOR FRIENDLY TREES

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis Pendula) [photo by keith kurman]

Native Pollinator Trees:

Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)
White Oak (Quercus alba)
American Holly (Ilex opaca)
Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
Magnolia virginiana
Dogwoods – Gray, Silky, Red-twig, Pagoda, Flowering

Additional Pollinator Trees:

Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora 'Little Gem')
Stewartia

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READY FOR

POLLINATOR

GUESTS THIS

SUMMER?

Let your garden be a living, blooming, buzzing celebration of life.

Visit us at Vineyard Gardens to explore our selection of native and pollinator-friendly plants.

Native Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) [photo by karen blackerby logan]

St. John’s Wort & Cleome (pollinators and deer resistant) [photo by keith kurman]

NATIVE POLLINATOR RESOURCES

HOMEGROWN NATIONAL PARK: DOUG TALLAMY

ASTILBE

June 9, 2026 Karen Logan

ASTILBE

Bring Vibrant Texture and Color to Your Shade Garden

GROWING ASTILBE

If you have a shady corner where other flowering plants refuse to thrive, Astilbe is a wonderful solution. These spectacular, clump-forming perennials illuminate dark garden beds with bold swaths of color and intricate texture from late spring through mid-summer.

Astilbes are instantly recognizable by their feathery, plume-like flowers, which come in rich shades of red, pink, lavender, purple, and crisp white. But the beauty doesn't stop at the blossoms, their glossy, fern-like foliage is equally striking, showing off hues of deep green, bronze, and copper-brown. While they are historically celebrated as deer-resistant additions to the landscape, local island deer have occasionally been spotted snacking on them recently, so it's always wise to keep an eye on them!

ASTIBLE ATTRACT BUTTERFLIES!

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COMPANION PLANTING

Perfect Combinations for Moisture & Shade

Astilbes love company, provided their neighbors share their love of cool roots and afternoon shade. They are fantastic for attracting butterflies to the garden! To create a lush, multi-layered look, try pairing them with these moisture-loving favorites:

Shrubs: Hydrangeas or Hypericum (St. John's Wort).
Perennials: Rodgersia (Roger’s Flower), Snakeroot (Cimicifuga/Actaea), Meadow Rue (Thalictrum), and a diverse mix of hardy ferns.

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CARE

Skip the Deadheading!

With most summer perennials, gardeners are trained to consistently snip off faded flowers to trigger a second flush of blooms. Astilbe is the exception. Cutting back spent Astilbe blooms won’t bring more flowers, and you’ll actually miss out on a key attribute! Their dried, copper-toned flower heads possess immense ornamental value and structure. We recommend leaving them standing to add architectural interest to your borders clear into autumn, though you can cut them down at any time if you prefer a tidier look.

Soil & Sun: Plant in partial to full shade. They absolutely thrive in a loamy, humus-rich soil that holds moisture well.
Watering: Check your plants regularly. Astilbes require plenty of water and consistent moisture. Water deeply to promote a robust, resilient root system and protect them from scorching afternoon sun.
Feeding: Apply a high-quality organic fertilizer in early spring as new growth emerges.
Dividing: Astilbes are robust growers that quickly form broad clumps. Divide your overgrown clumps every 3 to 4 years in the spring.

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Astilbe Varieties

Vineyard Gardens carries 25 to 30 different cultivars at the nursery, offering an incredible range of heights, bloom times, and colors. Here are a few standout favorites to look for on your next visit:

Astilbe chinensis 'Pumila': A fantastic, low-growing variety that spreads to form a dense, weed-suppressing ground cover. (10” tall)
Astilbe 'Hennie Graafland': A lovely, delicate dwarf variety perfect for front-of-the-border edging. (12”–18” tall)
Astilbe 'Montgomery': Features deep red plumes over dark, bronze-tinted foliage. (20"–24” tall)
Astilbe chinensis 'Superba': One of our absolute tallest pink selections, making a massive architectural statement. (24”–48” tall)
Astilbe chinensis 'Mighty Red Quin': A robust, towering giant featuring massive, ruby-red plumes late in the season. (39”–47” tall)
Other varieties we regularly stock include: Erika, Mighty Pip, Purple Candles, Bressingham Beauty, Delft Lace, Little Visions in Pink, Straussenfeder (Ostrich Plume), Deutschland, Visions, and Mauve.
Stop by the nursery this week to wander through our shade houses and find the perfect texture combination for your woodland garden beds!

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

ANNUALS

June 8, 2026 Karen Logan

HOW

ANNUALS COLONIZE

THE GARDEN

THE MAGIC OF RESEEDING

Annuals are celebrated for providing brilliant, non-stop color all summer long. Unlike perennials, annuals complete their entire life cycle in a single season; germinating, blooming, producing seed, and then dying as winter approaches.

But their story doesn't end there, before they go, they drop their seeds to the earth. Hidden in the soil through the winter, these seeds burst to life the following spring as a brand-new generation. Often the seedlings are identical or very similar to the mother but these seedlings aren't always carbon copies of the mother plant. Much like human brothers and sisters, they share a family resemblance but can often surprise you with unique variations.

When a plant successfully naturalizes and drops seed in the same area year after year, it is called colonizing. This process creates effortless, natural-looking drifts in the landscape. If you want to welcome this self-sustaining magic into your yard, here are some fantastic annuals (and biennials!) that love to colonize:

Poppies
Bachelor’s Buttons
Cleome (Spider Flower)
Larkspur
Browallia americana (Jamaica Forget-Me-Not)
Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist)
Foxgloves (A classic biennial that colonizes)

Because they put all their energy into a single season, annuals usually boast a much longer blooming window than perennials, with many flowering non-stop from June until frost. By planting colonizing varieties, you get the best of both worlds: unbeatable summer-long color, and a beautiful return performance next spring!

Calendula Bon Bon mix / A dwarf Calendula blooms all summer in full sun or part shade. Calendula flowers are edible. Other edible flowers to use as garnishes include Bachelor Buttons, Borage Borago officinalis, Nasturtiums and Violas.

Calibracoa Sweet Peach. Annual blooms all summer.

Calendulas(Taller). Taller calendulas make good cut flowers. Edible.

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Tips for

Reseeding Success

If you want to encourage your annuals and biennials to naturalize and carpet your garden beds next spring, a few simple adjustments to your maintenance routine will maximize your success:

Time Your Deadheading: Cutting back faded flowers keeps the plant blooming vigorously all summer. However, if you want the plant to drop seed for next year, you must stop deadheading later in the season. The flower heads need time to dry, mature, and develop viable seeds on the stem.
Go Easy on the Mulch: Avoid burying the area around the mother plant under a heavy layer of mulch. Many annual seeds are tiny and require direct contact with the soil and ambient sunlight to trigger spring germination.
Rethink Your Fall Cleanup: If you are trying to establish a colony of self-seeding plants, in the fall mulch that specific area very lightly, or skip it altogether, so you don't accidentally smother the fallen seeds.

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TRY THESE!

We have many favorites! The tried and true ones are still around.

There are new introductions of cultivars within each of these.

Geraniums / Impatiens / Cosmos / Cleome / Portulacas / Salvias / Marigolds / Alyssum / Ageratums / Nasturtiums / Nicotianas / Dahlias / Asters / Zinnias / Morning Glories / Amaranthus / Gomphrenas / Pentas / Lisianthus / Scabiosa / Snapdragons / Dusty Miller / Callas / Caladiums / Coleus / Agapanthus / Tropical Hibiscus / Fuchsia

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LONG BLOOMING PROVEN WINNER ANNUALS

Argyranthemums / Osteospermums / Lobularias / Calibrachoas / Euphorbia Diamond Frost / Petunias / Torenias / Diascias / Phlox / Verbenas

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LESSER KNOWN ANNUALS THAT ARE STRONG GARDEN PERFORMERS

Browallia americana / Orlaya grandiflora / Ammi majus / Erigeron karvinskianus / Nigella / Ceratotheca triloba / Rhemania angulata / Emilia coccinea / Tithonia / Sanvitalia / Dahlberg Daisies / Daturas Ricinus / Clary Sage (Blue Monday and Pink Sundae) / Tibouchina urvilleana

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RECOMMENDED DEER RESISTANT ANNUALS

Lantanas / Salvias / Daturas / Ricinus

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TRY ADDING ANNUAL VINES TO CONTAINERS & HANGING BASKETS

Mina lobata / Thunbergias / Cobaea scandens (Cup and Saucer Vine) / Mandevilla

Nasturtiums

Salvia Amistad / Salvia Hummingbird / Verbena Vanessa Purple / Nemesia Bluebird / Petunia Vista White / Hippo White Polka Dot / Dichondra / Euphorbia Frost

Dahlia

Cosmos Sonata Pink

Geraniums

Osteospermum Serenity Bronze

Petunia Easy Wave Blue

Portulaca Fuschia

Portulaca Fuchsia

Salpiglossis

Thunbergias

Calla Lily_Zantedeschia Snow Storm

Ipomoea Heavenly Blue

Calibrachoa_Million Bells

Sweet Alyssum

Nicotiana langsdorfii

Coleus

Cleome Senorita Blanca

Cleome Senorita Rosalita

Hibiscus Tropical Jewel Amber

Hibiscus Tropical Jewel Ruby

Lanatana Bandana Mango

Lantana Sunrise Rose

Lantana Bandana Lemon Zest

Lantana Bandera Red

Lantana Lucsious Golden Gate

Lantana Samantha

Tibouchina urvilleana

Tithonia

Eschscholtzia Californica Orange Poppy

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Integrating Annuals into Your Garden Design

Annuals are the secret weapon for creating a dynamic, cohesive landscape. Whether you are tucking them into perennial borders, designing container displays, or hanging lush baskets, they offer an unbeatable, season-long consistency of color that anchors your overall garden design.

When you allow annuals to reseed naturally, they act as a beautiful visual thread that ties the entire garden together. Because they sprout in a delightful, random fashion, weaving seamlessly between and within your established perennials—they create an effortless, cottage-style aesthetic with no apparent pattern.

Unlike perennials, which shouldn't be overcrowded if they are to thrive, annuals are excellent for filling the gaps between your permanent plantings. The golden rule? Learn to identify the young seedlings as they emerge in early spring so you don’t accidentally pull them out thinking they are weeds!

We Grow an Assortment of Annuals!

______________
* Fillers in perennial
beds.
* Use in hanging baskets
* Use in container
plantings
* Many annuals make
great cut flowers.

*************

Hanging Baskets

***MORNING GLORIES***
***Heavenly Blue***
***Chocolate***
*****
***BEGONIAS***
***Solenia Dark Pink***
***Bossa Nova Orange***
***Encanto Pink***
***Miss Miami***
*****
***PETUNIAS***
***Headliner Banana Cherry***
***Headliner Raspberry Swirl***
***Headliner Night Sky***
***Surfinia Magenta***
***Surfinia Heavenly Blue***
***Heavenly Amethyst Burst***
***Patio Radiant Dark Blue***
*****
***LOBELIA***

***THUNBERGIA***
***Orange Wonder***
*****
IMPATIENS
***Double Sparkler Hot Pink***
***Dark Red***
***New Guinea Impatiens***
*****
***GERANIUMS***
***Great Balls of Fire Light***
***Caliente Orange***
*****
***FUCHSIA***
***Wind Chimes Basket***
***Red/White***
*****
TORENIA
***Summer Wave***
*****
***SCAEVOLA***
***Whirlwind Blue***

Geranium Great Balls of Fire Light Lavender

Begonia Bossa Nova Orange

Begonia Encanto Pink

Begonia Miss Miami

Begonia Solenia Dark Pink

Fuchsia Aretes Upright Rio Grande

Fuchsia

Geranium Caliente Orange

Geranium

Impatiens Double Sparkler Dark Red

Impatiens Double Sparkler Hot Pink

Ipomoea Chocolate (Morning Glory Chocolate)

Petunia Headliner Banana Cherry

Petunia Headliner Night Sky

Petunia Headliner Raspberry Swirl

Petunia Heavenly Amethyst Burst

Petunia Surfinia Heavnely Blue

Petunia Surfinia Magenta

Torenia Summer Wave Large Blue

CONTAINER PLANTING

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

NASTURTIUM

June 8, 2026 Karen Logan

Nasturtiums

The Ultimate Easy-to-Grow Annual

Nasturtiums are vibrant, fast-growing annuals that are perfect for beginners and a joyful project to grow with children. Not only do they reward you with an abundance of beautiful blooms, but the entire plant is edible, both the leaves and flowers add a delicious, peppery kick to summer salads! Their sweet fragrance also makes them a lovely, unexpected choice for small cut-flower arrangements.

**********

Choosing the Right Variety for Your Space

For Containers & Baskets: Choose compact, dwarf varieties that won't take over your patio. Excellent choices include 'Alaska Variegated', 'Empress of India', 'Cherry Rose Jewel', or the 'Fiesta Blend'.
For Vertical Gardens & Living Mulch: If you want a trailing ground cover, a natural weed barrier, or a climbing vine, look for trailing varieties with long runners like 'White Moonlight', 'Red Canary Creeper', 'Yellow Canarybird', or a robust Trailing Mix.

**********

PLANTING & PLACEMENT

Sowing Seeds: You can start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost, or sow them directly into the garden in early spring. Plant seeds 1/2” deep and space them 10 to 12 inches apart. You will see sprouts emerge in just 7 to 10 days!
Sunlight: Select a spot in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but they won't bloom nearly as vibrantly.
Soil Secret: Nasturtiums actually prefer poor, lean soil and do not need fertilizer. Rich, fertile soil will trigger a massive flush of green leaves but very few flowers. Plant them in those tricky garden spots where other annuals struggle!

**********

SUMMER CARE

Water regularly throughout the season, but let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to avoid over-saturating them.
Deadhead faded flowers consistently to prolong the blooming season into autumn.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season to encourage fresh, bushy growth.

JUNE GARDEN TIPS

CONTAINER GARDENING

LEARN MORE ABOUT ANNUALS

HYDRANGEA

June 5, 2026 Karen Logan

HYDRANGEAS

If you have a garden then most likely there is a good spot for a hydrangea. There are so many different varieties, sizes and light requirements that there is something for everyone. Panicle hydrangeas are your late bloomers that can withstand full sun; mopheads are shade loving hydrangeas; there are dwarf options for smaller gardens; large ones for back of garden; and most of them do well in containers. Oak leaf hydrangeas are bee magnets and there is even a northeast native that provides a valuable food source for the hydrangea sphinx moth. Hydrangeas mix well in both the cultivated and natural garden with their broad leaves complimenting the finer foliage textures of other plants and shrubs.

******************************************

HYDRANGEA

MACROPHYLLA

Big Leaf, Mophead or Lacecap

The genus name Hydrangea comes from hydor meaning "water" and aggeion meaning "vessel", in reference to the cup-like flower.

A deciduous shrub with a rounded habit that typically grows 3-6’ tall and as wide unless damaged by harsh winters or pruned smaller.
Mophead Hydrangeas produce ball shaped flower clusters
Lacecap Hydrangeas produce small flowers surrounded by a ring of larger flowers

Endless Summer, a newer macrophylla(mophead) that blooms on new growth instead of last years stems, so flower buds don’t get frosted in a severe winter or late spring frost.

GROWING HYDRANGEA MACROPHYLLA

**************

Best grown in rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in part shade. Tolerates full sun only if grown in consistently moist soils.
Soil pH affects the flower color of most cultivars except white (blue in highly acidic soils and lilac to pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils). Add aluminum sulfate to the soil to make the flowers bluer or add lime to the soil to make the flowers pinker. Begin soil treatments well in advance of flowering, as in late autumn or early spring.
Hydrangea macrophylla bloom on last year’s growth, meaning living, green stems should never be cut back in spring or early summer if you want flowers. Mid June is the perfect time to clean up your shrubs by removing completely dead, bare winter wood and brittle tips from the center of the plant. If your hydrangea requires any structural shaping or size control, wait to prune until immediately after flowering finishes in late summer so the plant has time to set next year’s buds before winter.
Best to mulch plants year-round with 3" of shredded bark, peat or compost.
Winter hardy but planted in sheltered locations gives additional winter protection. Regardless of protective measures taken, most bigleaf hydrangeas simply will not bloom (or will bloom poorly) in some years due to a variety of winter conditions.

hydrangea macrophylla

*********
Nikko Blue
Endless Summer
Bloomstruck
Blue Enchantress
Penny Mac
Glowing Embers
Lanarth White
Blushing Bride

USES

____________
* Group or mass in the
shrub border.
* A specimen or accent
for foundations and
other locations
near homes or patios.
* Hedges
* Containers

**************

HYDRANGEA

PANICULATA

Panicle Hydrangeas

Panicle Hydrangeas are the no fuss hydrangea with long lasting blooms. They range in size from large to compact depending on variety, allowing for many planting options in the landscape. A late blooming shrub, they become the autumn stars when most other shrubs are no longer blooming. Triggered by air temperature fluctuations, hydrangea panicle go through a color transformation starting with an early summer white that fades to shades of pink or red before drying to beige in the winter. Their nectar-rich flowers attract butterflies and bees late into the season, providing them with a vital food source.

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA ATTRIBUTES

**************

Panicle Hydrangeas thrive in full sun or morning sun, a place in the garden that mophead hydrangeas don’t flourish.
Bloom on new growth each summer so there is no risk of flower buds being harmed by the cold winter or late frost.
As the rest of the garden winds down, the fall panicle hydrangeas take center stage.
Flowers can even be left to dry on the plant in the fall and can stay looking good into the winter.
Panicle hydrangeas, bloom late summer and into the fall. The only hydrangea that blooms at the tips of the new growth and should be pruned in early spring when they first started growing. Too late to prune now in June.

hydrangea paniculata

**********
Limelight
Limelight Prime
Little Lime
Quick Fire
Little Quick Fire
Bobo (dwarf variety)

USES

____________
* Variety of sizes means
there’s a perfect fit for
most situations
* Smaller specimens ideal for
foundation, mass or
container planting
* Larger specimens ideal for
hedges and back of the
garden

**************

HYDRANGEA

QUERCIFOLIA

Oakleaf Hydrangea

Oak leaf hydrangeas have beautiful large leaves similarly shaped to an oak leaf. The flower panicles are large, white and attract many bees. In autumn the leaves turn to a reddish hue. foliage transitions from green to maroon, falling off in winter to reveal beautiful exfoliating bark. Beyond its impressive foliage, the flowers also put on an exquisite show, changing from white to a stunning pink or red as the plant matures. Oak leaf hydrangeas prefer partial shade.

*Mophead, Lace Cap, Oakleaf and Climbing Hydrangeas all bloom on last years growth, so only prune out the dead stems!

**************

HYDRANGEA

ANOMALA PETIOLARIS

Climbing Hydrangea

“First it sleeps, then it creeps and then it leaps.” This old adage seems to speak directly to the climbing hydrangea. This vine is slow to start but once it gets establish after a couple years it leaps! A vigorous vine with lush green foliage blanketed by beautiful lace cap white blooms. This hydrangea has year round interest, with their long lasting summer blooms that dry beautifully on the vine in autumn and when the leaves have fallen gorgeous exfoliating bark is revealed. Climbing hydrangea can thrive in full sun to shade. It can be planted on sturdy structures, like stone or brick walls, chimneys, and houses.

**************

HYDRANGEA

ARBORESCENS

Smooth Hydrangea

Hydrangea arborescens, our native hydrangea, is found along rocky wooded slopes, ravines, streambanks, and bluff bases in the eastern United States. Smooth hydrangea is the host plant of the hydrangea sphinx moth and attracts butterflies, moths, pollinators and songbirds. The blooms are on new wood and can be pruned back close to the ground in late winter. Several cultivars have flowers that make a ball-shaped bloom. It is low growing and stacks well beneath taller trees and shrubs. We carry Annabelle and Invincible Spirit

USES

———————
*Planted in mass
*Native specimen
*Pollinator garden
*Rain garden
*Shade garden
*Grows well on a slope,
naturalized area or
in a woodland

**************

FERTILIZE HYDRANGEAS IN EARLY SUMMER

All hydrangeas tend to grow better when they are fertilized, even the native ones.

If you missed feeding your plants early in the season when you did your spring clean up, you can make up for that now (before August 1). The plants that respond best to fertilizer this time of year are the rebloomers: big leaf (macrophylla), mountain (serrata) and woodland/smooth (arborescens) varieties. You may want to help them produce those reblooming flowers to carry your garden through to the end of the season

Panicle hydrangeas can take the most sun, all the other hydrangeas would rather be in some afternoon shade.

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

Hydrangea [illustration by karen blackerby logan]

CONTAINER PLANTING

June 3, 2026 Karen Logan

Chives illustration by karen blackerby logan

**************

CONTAINER

PLANTING

Time to Plant Your Pots

They are a welcoming splash of color at your entrance, on your deck or patio. Pots can vary in size and can be combinations of sizes and heights arranged together to make a dynamic display. Sometimes just one kind of plant in several pots arranged together can be simple and elegant, such as one large hosta in a shade pot next to an impatiens pot. Or an acanthus plant in an urn. An advantage of utilizing planted containers allows you to be flexible with the arrangement.

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Tips for Planting Containers

In mixed containers the plants will be married together for the whole season so be sure they have similar requirements. Group full sun plants or shade plants together depending on your spot.
Annuals long bloom season offers a reliable consistency of color that keep your containers looking fresh through autumn. To elevate your pots and hanging baskets, try weaving in vibrant annual vines like Mina lobata (Firecracker Vine), Thunbergia (Black-Eyed Susan Vine), Cobaea scandens (Cup and Saucer Vine), or classic Mandevilla.
While we typically recommend annuals for containers because they offer non-stop blooms all summer long, don't rule out perennials! Many perennials boast spectacular foliage that looks stunning in pots all season, with the added bonus of a beautiful bloom window. For shady spots, Heucheras (Coral Bells) or Brunnera 'Jack Frost' offer incredible texture, and even a single, large Hosta can make a dramatic statement in a container.
Geraniums are an old time favorite. They are drought tolerant once established. Combine them with other drought tolerant sun lovers like Euphorbia Diamond Frost instead of the traditional vinca major.
Great container plants for sun include Verbenas, Calibracoa ‘Million Bells’, Petunias, Zinnias, Euphorbia Diamond Frost, Salvias, Sweet Alyssum and Sweet Potato Vine. A simple pot can just be Cosmos sonata, dwarf series. You could also try something new like Browallia americana or Cephalophora aromatica.
Great container plants for shade include Impatiens, Begonias, Fuschias, Four O’ Clocks, Nicotiana, Rudbeckia hirtas ‘Black eyed Susan’, Coleus, Lobelia, and Sweet Potato Vine.
Plant the taller plants in the center and the trailers around the outside.
An easy way to insure proper fertility is to put some Osmocote fertilizer on the soil surface when you finish planting your pots and then water with the hose. Otherwise mix a few tablespoons of water soluble fertilizer into your watering can and water them with fertilizer about once a week.
It is still early in the season and annuals grow quickly so don’t overcrowd them.
Most importantly have fun designing and planting your pots and watching them grow.
Add annuals to your perennial beds, containers & hanging baskets for color all season long!

COLOR COMBINATIONS

______________
When mixing annuals and
perennials, your color palette
can elevate the entire design.
Keep it simple but highly effective
with these basic rules of thumb:
**Monochromatic Magic:**
Layer different tones of the
same color together for an
effortless, sophisticated look.
**High Contrast:**
Pair deep, dark foliage with
bright white blooms for
an instant, dramatic focal point.
**The Great Balancers:**
Use cool blues, muted grays, and
rich greens to tone down louder,
vibrant colors like orange and red.

**************

HERBS

Elevate Your Containers with Fresh Herbs

Beyond traditional flowers, herbs make a spectacular and practical addition to container gardens. Now is the perfect time to plant a mix of perennial, annual, and edible herbs in your pots to create a complete sensory experience right on your patio, filling your space with incredible textures, rich aromas, and fresh flavors for summer cooking!

LEARN MORE: PERENNIAL HERBS

LEARN MORE: SALVIAS

TIMING IS KEY IN GARDENING! DON’T WAIT TO GET STARTED!

SALVIAS

June 1, 2026 Karen Logan

SALVIAS

Members of the mint family, Salvias are famous for their incredible diversity, boasting over 900 species worldwide. While about 50 of these are native to North America. However, for those of us gardening in Massachusetts, the Lyre-leaf Sage (Salvia lyrata) is our region's only true native sage. No matter the variety, Salvias are renowned as absolute pollinator magnets, featuring nectar-rich blooms that act as an irresistible beacon for hummingbirds, butterflies, and a wide variety of local pollinators.

***********

GROWING SALVIA

How to Plant & Grow Salvia for Success

Salvias are sun-loving, low-maintenance perennials that reward you with vibrant blooms and incredible pollinator activity all season long. Whether you are looking for classic blues and purples or want to branch out into vibrant pinks, fuchsias, whites, or reds, there is a variety for every palette. These tough, deer-resistant plants are exceptionally easy to care for. Here is how to give your new Salvias the absolute best start in your landscape:

Choose the Right Spot: Select a location that receives full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily) and has excellent drainage. Salvias absolutely do not like soggy roots.
Prepare the Soil: Dig a hole twice the width of the plant’s container to give the roots plenty of room to expand. Mix a 3-inch layer of high-quality compost into the existing soil to enrich and improve drainage.
Plant with Care: Gently remove the Salvia from its nursery pot. Place it in the hole so the top of the root ball sits perfectly level with the surrounding soil line.
Space for Growth: Space your plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the specific variety. Proper spacing ensures excellent airflow and gives the plant room to reach its mature size.
Backfill and Firm: Fill in the hole around the plant with your soil mix, pressing down gently with your hands to eliminate air pockets and stabilize the root ball.
Water Deeply: Give your newly planted Salvias a thorough, deep soaking to settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
Mulch: Apply a thin layer of mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Encourage More Blooms: Deadheading spent flowers encourages repeat blooming. Follow the flower stem down to the base and cut just above the foliage for a clean finish and more blossoms.
Spring Cleanup: Wait until early spring, when you see signs of new growth, to cut back old stems. This helps protect the plant during winter and gives you a clearer view of what's emerging.
Divide Every 3 Years: To keep your Salvias vigorous, divide clumps every 3 years. The best time to divide is in early spring, before new growth fully emerges.

While Salvias are remarkably drought-tolerant once established, consistent watering during their first few weeks in the ground is key to healthy, deep root development. With just a bit of maintenance, Salvias reward you with long-lasting color and a steady stream of pollinators.

***********

PERENNIAL SALVIAS

While most perennial salvias bloom in early summer, you can easily extend their performance by deadheading the faded flower spikes. They will reward you with a fantastic second flush of blooms later in the same season!

Salvia Wind Walker Red

————————
*A perennial species of*
*Salvia that is 4’ tall.*
*Graceful arching stems*
*with brilliant red flowers*
*bloom from late June*
*through fall. Cut this*
*Salvia back to 6” in*
*early summer to keep*
*stems shorter and*
*stronger. Hummingbirds*
*love it!*

Perennial Salvia Varieties

Salvia nemorosa Species (Meadow Sage)

These are the classic garden staples known for their upright flower spikes and compact, mounded foliage.

'Salvatore Blue': Features aromatic, royal purple-blue spikes that add wonderful vertical interest and deep color to garden beds and planters.
'Caradonna': Features striking, dark purple stems that contrast beautifully with its violet-blue flowers.
'Dark Matter': Deeply saturated, near-black buds that open into intense violet-blue spikes.
'Blue Marvel' & 'Rose Marvel': Some of the largest flower spikes in the genus, providing an extra-bold splash of blue or rose-pink.
'White Profusion': A high-performance variety completely covered in crisp, clean white flowers that rebloom beautifully.
'Snow Hill': A dependable, classic white selection that forms a tidy, cool mound in the border.
'Blue by You': An early bloomer featuring rich blue-purple spikes and excellent heat tolerance.
'Violet Riot': Forms a dense, uniform mound packed with vivid violet-blue flowers.
'East Friesland': A compact old favorite featuring rich violet-purple spikes.
'Feathers Peacock': Feathery foliage and soft lavender-blue flowers.

The 'Lyrical' Series

Known for their robust growth, strong branching, and high flower count per stem.

'Lyrical Blue': Deep indigo-blue petals contrasted beautifully by rich burgundy accents.
'Lyrical Rose': Bright rose-pink flower spikes that bring a soft warmth to the garden.

Other Salvias

'Midnight Model': Produces striking, intense violet-blue flowers on a round, dense, perfectly neat clump.
'Evening Attire': Features huge, vivid violet-blue flowers packed tightly into a highly refined, upright habit.
'Moulin Rouge': Makes a dramatic statement with oversized, rich rosy-pink flower spikes.
'Rhythm and Blues': Striking tricolor blue-purple blooms.

Salvia greggii (Mirage™ Series): Woody, drought-tolerant mounds with aromatic foliage.
Salvia verticillata 'Purple Rain': An "oldie but goodie" featuring arching stems with smoky purple whorls of flowers that look incredibly soft and romantic.

Biennial Sages

Biennials spend their first year growing lush foliage and explode into dramatic, oversized blooms in their second year.

Salvia argentea (Silver Sage): A striking, clump-forming biennial grown as much for its texture as its flowers. It features massive, fuzzy, woolly silver leaves that look like velvet, topped with elegant white flowers.
Salvia sclarea (Clary Sage): A biennial species native to the Mediterranean basin that we proudly grow from seed right here! This is a massive, very showy architectural plant that features huge spikes bearing large, colorful bracts that last all summer.
- The Straight Species: Features pink blooms with darker pink edges.
- Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica: A beautiful variety featuring striking white flecks and pink bracts.

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ANNUALS: SEASON EXTENDERS

Plant them now and they will be gorgeous in the fall!

Annual Salvias are absolute powerhouses in the garden, providing non-stop color from early summer straight into late fall. From unique varieties we start right here from seed to high-performance selections grown from premium plugs, these plants are the ultimate season extenders. In fact, hardy varieties like Pineapple Sage will often stay in full bloom well into November! To get the absolute most out of them, we recommend planting them early in the season so they have plenty of time to reach their magnificent mature size. While they do beautifully in both patio containers and garden beds, keep in mind that they put all their energy into a single season and will not come back next year.

Planning Ahead

It's the perfect time to think about late summer and autumn interest, when designing your garden beds now. Our late-blooming 'season-extender' Salvias are the perfect tool to keep your landscape vibrant and colorful long after other perennials have faded.

***********

Vineyard Gardens Seed-Grown Favorites

There is a special charm to plants grown from seed right here at the nursery. These selections are famous for their exotic, oversized bracts and incredibly long-lasting color.

Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea): Produces massive, architectural flower spikes with prominent, colorful bracts that look delightfully exotic and last all summer.
Salvia horminium Blue Monday: A true Vineyard Gardens favorite featuring striking, intense blue-violet top leaves (bracts) that retain their deep color for months.
Salvia horminium Rose Sundae: A gorgeous sister variety to 'Blue Monday,' boasting soft, vivid rose-pink bracts that add a beautiful warmth to cottage gardens and bouquets.
Salvia patens Patio Sky Blue (Gentian Sage): Breathtaking sky-blue flowers, set on a compact habit perfect for pots.

'Plug-Grown' Annuals

Grown from specialized starter plugs, these high-performance cultivars grow rapidly into robust, heavy-blooming plants for your large containers and garden beds.

Salvia guaranitica 'Black and Blue' (Anise-Scented Sage): Featuring deep cobalt-blue tubular flowers emerging from dramatic, near-black calyxes.
'Amistad' (Andrew’s Recommendation): A top pick by Andrew! This spectacular hybrid boasts massive, continuous spikes of royal purple flowers sitting on sharp black stems. It is an absolute magnet for hummingbirds.
'Indigo Spires': A deep, rich blue showstopper with extra-long flower spikes. This tough variety keeps going and going. It will still be blooming beautifully alongside your fall asters and mums!
'Skyscraper Orange': Brings unique, warm sunset-orange tones to the annual border on sturdy, upright stems.
'Skyscraper Pink': Features densely packed, bright pink trumpets that stand up beautifully to summer heat.
'Unplugged Pink': A compact, tidy selection covered in soft pink spikes, perfect for mid-sized patio containers.
'Rockin’ Deep Purple': A tough, modern hybrid loaded with rich, royal purple blooms that require no deadheading to keep flowering.
'Rockin’ Blue Suede Shoes': Features soft, light blue petals contrasted against crisp, deep black calyxes.
'Rockin’ Fuchsia': Vibrant, neon-fuchsia blossoms that scream for attention from across the yard.
'Wendy’s Wish': A massive customer favorite featuring brilliant, hot-magenta pink flowers with colorful fluted calyxes.
'Love and Wishes': Another popular favorite, displaying a sophisticated, deep antique shade of reddish-pink and dark maroon stems.

Salvia leucantha ('Mexican Bush Sage'): The ultimate late-season extender. This magnificent, velvety-textured plant saves its main explosion of soft purple and white spikes for autumn, blooming beautifully deep into October.

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Salvias in the Herb House

Explore our fantastic selection of aromatic, edible sages!

Salvia elegans ‘Pineapple Sage’ (annual): A spectacular annual herb and a magnificent season extender. The species name elegans reflects its tender nature, meaning it will not overwinter in our climate. However, it grows at an astonishing rate if you get it in the ground early! When planted in spring or early summer, a simple 4-inch nursery pot of Pineapple Sage will easily reach 4 to 5 feet tall and wide in a single season. In late summer and throughout autumn, it bears brilliant, tubular red flower spikes. As a delightful bonus, its lush green foliage releases a sweet pineapple aroma when brushed.
Salvia officinalis ‘Culinary Sages’ (Perennial)
These hardy perennial sages are wonderful in the kitchen and bring beautiful, year-round texture to the herb garden. While the straight species and 'Berggarten' remain the two absolute classics for culinary use, we also carry these gorgeous, highly ornamental varieties:
- Purple Leaf Sage: Features rich, smoky-purple foliage that adds dark, dramatic depth to herb planters.
- Golden Sage: Boasts bright green leaves beautifully variegated with wide, chartreuse-gold margins.
- Tricolor Sage: A stunning, highly ornamental selection with striking variegated foliage splashed in shades of purple, pink, and creamy white.

LEARN MORE: PERENNIAL HERBS

CONTAINER PLANTING

JUNE GARDEN TIPS

June 1, 2026 Karen Logan

Achillea (Yarrow) & Purple Prairie Clover

JUNE

GARDEN TIPS

June is here, and gardening season is in full swing! With longer days, warmer temperatures, and flowers in full bloom, it's a wonderful time to be outside. Now is when you truly get to enjoy the fruits of your labor: gathering fresh-cut flowers, nibbling on garden veggies and berries, watching pollinators hard at work, and soaking in the rich, fragrant scents of summer.

VEGETABLE GARDENS
We’re still in the thick of planting season and it’s a great time to get your warm season crops in the ground! Now’s the moment for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beans, corn, and squash. You can also sow a second round of cool-weather favorites like lettuce, arugula, carrots, and beets.

Be sure to stake your vining plants to keep them tidy and productive. And don’t forget to mulch or top-dress around your veggies to suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Our current favorite is Leaf Mold, an amazing natural mulch that improves soil structure and retains water. Ask about it at the nursery!

PRUNING TIPS

Pinch back rhododendron buds now to encourage even more blooms next year.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs (like lilacs) right after they finish blooming.
Give boxwoods a light shaping once they flush out with new growth, just enough to keep that tidy form.

STAY AHEAD OF WEEDS
Weeds love June sunshine too, so stay on top of them early. A great trick? Fill in gaps with more plants! Dense plantings help crowd out weeds naturally and keep your garden looking lush.

TIME TO MULCH
If you haven’t freshened up your mulch yet, now’s the time. Leaf Mold makes an excellent natural mulch, or choose from our bagged Coast of Maine mulches, available at our nursery.

FEED YOUR PLANTS
Everything that’s in the ground can benefit from a mid-season meal. Use an organic, time-release fertilizer to feed gently and consistently over the coming months. We recommend Espoma fertilizers, they’re packed with micronutrients and break down slowly to nourish your plants sustainably. For a quicker boost, water in a liquid organic fertilizer, perfect for fast-acting support. Ask us about our favorite blends when you visit!

ANNUALS & CONTAINERS
It’s a perfect time to plant out annuals in your containers, window boxes, and garden beds. For the best blooms, deadhead regularly and keep them fed! Add a slow-release organic fertilizer when planting, then follow up with a weekly treat of quarter-strength liquid fertilizer to keep them thriving.

Need help picking the right products or plants?

Stop by the Garden Center, we’re happy to help you choose the best options for your space and soil.

********

Phlox divaricata (woodland phlox) with Euphorbia polychromatic

Water

Water constantly! All newly planted or transplanted plants need deep watering 1 to 2 times a week, depending on rainfall and sun exposure.

For trees and woody shrubs, a good rule of thumb is:

Once a day during the first week to saturate the root zone
Once a week for the first year, unless we’ve had a soaking rain

July and August are especially critical months to stay on top of watering.

What’s a “deep water”? It depends on your watering method:

Holding a hose at full flow on a shrub may only take a few minutes
A sprinkler covering a large area should run for about an hour, as long as there’s no runoff

Morning is the best time to water. There is less evaporation, and plants can absorb the moisture before the heat of the day.
It’s a myth that watering during the heat of the day will cause leaf burn. If that were true, every rain shower followed by sun would scorch your plants!

A 1 to 3-inch layer of mulch slows evaporation, protects roots, and gradually breaks down to improve soil structure and moisture retention.

Need help with watering?

Vineyard Gardens offers everything from basic watering services to full irrigation installations. We even hand-water, especially for newly planted beds, trees, or shrubs. Let us know if you'd like an evaluation or quote, we’re happy to help.

Delphinium, Foxglove with Yarrow and Oenothers Siskiyou Pink

AMSONIA

May 27, 2026 Karen Logan

AMSONIA

A Native Perennial with Spring Flowers and Fall Color

Long ago, Amsonia tabernaemontana (commonly known as Bluestar) first caught my eye with its distinct mounded shape and delicate blue flowers. Later that same year, it grabbed my attention all over again when its foliage transformed into a brilliant, glowing yellow fall color. Amsonia’s rounded shape and sturdy form result from many individual stems with the exact right length to round it out. When in bloom, clusters of small, soft-blue, star-shaped flowers adorn the tip of every stem, hence its common name, Bluestar. It is no surprise that Amsonia tabernaemontana was named one of the Top 75 Garden Plants by the American Horticultural Society! With stunning spring blooms, fine texture, radiant autumn color, and excellent deer resistance, this genus offers incredible multi-season interest.

AMSONIA WE CARRY AT VINEYARD GARDENS

While plants are botanically classified by the similarities in their flowers, their foliage can vary wildly. This is beautifully true for the different Amsonias sitting on our nursery tables:

Amsonia tabernaemontana (Eastern Bluestar): This lovely native species has dense clusters of pale blue spring flowers and golden fall foliage.
'Blue Ice': A compact cultivar of the native species that stays lower to the ground, with deeper dark-blue buds and a long bloom time. Perfect for smaller garden borders or containers.
Amsonia hubrichtii: This species offers a completely different look. It features exceptionally narrow, needle-like leaves lining the stems that create a soft, feathery texture in the wind. It turns a fiery copper-gold in October.

Why the Deer Leave It Alone: The stems and foliage of Amsonia contain a bitter, milky sap that serves as a highly effective natural defense system that deters predation by deer and rabbits.

Easy Care & Growing Conditions

Because these are native US prairie plants, they are incredibly tough and unfussy once established.

Soil: They prefer well-drained soil but aren't picky about soil fertility.
Sunlight: Full sun is ideal for the best form and optimal fall color. However, Amsonia tabernaemontana will tolerate partial shade (though it may bloom a bit less vigorously).

Amsonia hubrichtii in Vinieyard Gardens garden bed

Since that first encounter years ago, my appreciation for this genus has only grown!

DEER RESISTENT PLANTS

DEER RESISTANT PLANTS

May 26, 2026 Karen Logan

Vineyard Gardens garden bed. Amsonia hubrichtii (center with blue flowers) and Bronze Fennel, a perennial herb (in the background) are both deer resistant perennials

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Dealing with

Deer in Your Garden:

What to Know and How to Protect Your Plants

Deer can easily devastate a garden, but a little understanding of their habits can go a long way. Understanding what deer look for (and what they avoid) can help you make strategic plant choices. Deer show distinct preferences when it comes to browsing. Knowing their favorite textures can help you plan your landscape:

The Favorites: Deer adore plants that are soft to the touch with high water content (like Hostas), as well as tender new flower buds and evergreen shrubs like Rhododendrons.
The Deterrents: They generally avoid plants with coarse, bristly, fuzzy, or spiny textures, and they naturally steer clear of plants with intense aromas.

*Note: If deer are hungry enough, they will eat just about anything!
Signs of Deer Damage
Because deer lack upper incisors, they don't leave a clean cut when they browse. Instead, they leave behind rough, jagged tears on stems and foliage, a telltale sign they’ve been to your property for dinner. While browsing happens year-round, the heaviest pressure always occurs from October through February, especially during challenging winter months when wild food sources are scarce.

*Black Chokeberry, a deer resistant native shrub*

Forget Me Nots & Bleeding Hearts are both deer resistant plants.

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Control & Prevention

How to Deter Deer

No garden is completely deer-proof, even known "deer-resistant" varieties are highly vulnerable during their first few weeks in the ground. New plants are often lush from nursery care, making them an irresistible target. There are several highly effective techniques you can use to protect your landscape. Combining a few of these methods will yield the best results:

Commercial Repellents: If you struggle with heavy deer pressure, we highly recommend spraying vulnerable plants & shrubs and newly installed plants with a deer repellent for 3 to 4 weeks after planting. This breaks their browsing habit and gives the plants time to establish. Products containing a mixture of dried bovine blood, sulfured eggs, or garlic are incredibly effective because they target both a deer's sense of smell and taste. These organic sprays will not harm your plants and are available at Vineyard Gardens.
Strategic Plant Placement: Design your garden beds with deer behavior in mind. Place heavily scented, fuzzy leaved or poisonous plants on the outer perimeter of your gardens to act as a natural barrier, hiding the more tempting, delicate plants on the inside.
Choose Unpalatable Varieties: Fill your landscape with beautiful plants that deer naturally dislike. Excellent options include Lilac, Lavender, Marigolds, Zinnias, Daffodils, and Snapdragons. Stop by our nursery, and our staff can help you pick out the perfect deer-resistant combinations for your specific yard.
The Soap Method: For a quick home remedy, try scattering or hanging heavily scented bars of soap (like Irish Spring) around the perimeter of your garden beds. Leaving the wrappers on helps the soap endure rain and last a bit longer.
Install Protective Fencing: When deer pressure is severe, a physical barrier is the most reliable long-term solution. To truly keep deer from jumping into your yard, a fence must be at least 8 feet tall. While a solid 8-foot metal fence is highly effective, it can become quite expensive. As a fantastic, low-profile alternative, we sell a black vinyl deer fencing at the nursery that blends beautifully into the landscape while keeping your plants entirely safe.

Fortunately, even if a plant gets nibbled on, it will typically survive and recover beautifully as long as its root system remains healthy and undamaged.

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DEER RESISTANT ANNUALS

Calendula Bon Bon mix. A dwarf Calendula. Blooms all summer in full sun or part shade.

DEER RESISTANT ANNUALS

Acroclinum (Paper Flower)
Ageratum
Angelonia: Dwarf Serena, tall Angelonias and our favorite tall one is the Angel Face Series
Bachelor Buttons (Corn Flowers)
Bracteantha (Strawflower)
Brugmansia
Calendula (Angel's Trumpets)
Cleome (Spider Flowers)
Cosmos sulphureus: Cosmos Xanthos,Cosmos Apricotta and our new Cosmos Diablo
Datura (Trumpet Flower)
Delphinium (Larkspur)
Dusty Miller (Silver Ragwort)
Euphorbia marginatá ‘Snow on the Mountain’

Geraniums (Crane's Bill)
Geraniums (scented)
Gomphrena (Globe amaranth)
Gypsophila (Baby's Breath)
Heliotropium (Heliotrope)
Herbs (annuals): cilantro / parsley / dill / chervil / lemon grass / lavender / lemon verbena / marjoram
Lantana
Limonium (Statice) (Sea lavenders)
Lobularia maritima (Alyssum)
Papaver (Poppies)
Salvias
Tagetes (Marigolds)

Salvia “Amistad” (annual and season extender)

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DEER RESISTANT PERENNIALS

Pennisetum Moudry-black fountain grass blooms in late summer

DEER RESISTANT PERENNIALS

Achillea (Yarrow)

Aconitum (Wolf's bane)
Agastache (Anise hyssop)
Allium Ornamental Onion)
Alpestris (Forget-Me-Nots)
Amsonia (Blue Stars)
Ariseama (Jack-in-the-Pulpit)
Arum (Arum Lilies)
Aruncus (Goatsbeard)
Artemesia (Mugworts)
Asarum (Wild Gingers)
Asclepias tuberosa (Butterfly Weed)
Aster
Astilbe (False Goatsbeard)
Baptisia (Wild Indigo)
Borage
Bronze Fennel
Cimicifuga (Bugbane)
Coreopsis verticillata ‘Zagreb’ and ‘Moonbeam’ (Whorled Tickseed)
Corydalis
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)
Digitalis (Foxglove)
Dryopteris (Wood Ferns)
Echinops (Globe Thistle)
Epimedium (Barrenwort)
Euphorbia (Spurges)

Festuca glauca (Blue Fescue)

Helleborus (Hellebore)
Herbs (perennial): Rosemary / thyme / sage / tarragon / mints / Rue
Iris: Bearded, Japanese and Siberian Iris
Kirengeshoma (Yellow Wax Bells)
Lavandula (Lavender)
Liatris (Blazing stars)
Lily if the valley
Marrubium vulgare (Horehound)

Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm)
Mint family perennials
Monarda (Beebalm)
Narcissus (Daffodils)
Nepeta (Catnips)
Oregano Drops of Gold Jupiter (new)
Oregano: ornamental and edible
Ornamental Grasses
Osmunda Fern (Royal Fern)
Pachysandra
Paeonia (Peonies)
Papaver (Poppies)
Perovskia (Russian Sage)
Salvia
Stachys bizantina (Lambs Ears)
Teucrium (Germanders)
Yucca

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DEER RESISTANT TREES & SHRUBS

DEER RESISTANT TREES & SHRUBS

Abelia
Acer (Maple)
Aesculus (Horse Chestnut)
Amelanchier (Serviceberry)
Aralia (Spikenards)
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (Bearberry)
Aronia (Chokeberry)
Aucuba (spotted laurel)
Betula (Birch)
Buddleja davidii (Butterfly Bush)
Buxus (Boxwood)
Callicarpa (Beautyberry)
Calycanthus floridus (Sweet Shrub)
Calycanthus virginicum (Carolina Allspice)
Caryopteris (Bluebeard)
Cercidiphyllum (Katsura)
Chaenomeles (Flowering Quince)
Chamaecyparis (False Cypress)
Chionanthus
Clerodendron trichotoma (Harlequin Glorybower)
Clethra (Sweet Pepperbush)
Cotinus (Smoke bush)
Cornus (Dogwood)
Cotoneaster (Bearberry cotoneaster)
Cryptomeria (sugi)
Daphne
Deutzia
Enkianthus
Forsythia
Fothergilla
Gleditsia
Hamamelis (Witch-hazel)
Hibiscus syriacus (Rose of Sharon)
Hypericum (St. Johns Wort)
Ilex opaca (American Holly)
Ilex verticillata (Winterberry Holly)
Illicium floridanum (Florida Anise)
Itea virginica (Virginia sweetspire)

Juniperus (Junipers)
Kerria japonica
Kolkwitzia (Beauty Bush)
Symphoricarpos (Crepe Myrtle)
Leucothoe fontanesiana (Fetterbush)
Lindera (Spicebush)
Liriodendron tulipifera (tuliptree)
Magnolia
Mahonia aquifolium (Oregon Grape Holly)
Mahonia nervosa
Mahonia repens
Metasequoia (dawn redwood)
Microbiota decussata (Siberian Cypress)
Myrica pensylvanica (Bayberry)
Nellia sinensis
Osmanthus (Devilwood)
Oxydendrum (sorrel tree)
Philadelphus (Mock oranges)
Picea glauca (Alberta Spruce)
Pieris japonica (Andromeda)
Pines
Potentilla (Cinquefoil)
Prunus laurocerasus (Cherry Laurel)
Prunus maritima (Beach plum)
Prunus serrulata (Japanese Cherry)
Rhus (Sumac)
Rubus (Trailing Blackberry)
Salix (Willows)
Sambucus (Elderberry)
Sarcococca hookeriana (Sweetbox)
Skimmia
Spirea (Meadowsweets)
Symphoricarpos (Coralberry)
Syringa vulgaris (Lilac)
Viburnum dentatum (Arrowwood Viburnum)
Weigela
Wisteria

MONROVIA: DEER RESISTANT PLANTS

DEER RESISTANT PLANTS

ROSES

May 25, 2026 Karen Logan

The Perfect Fit:

Roses in the

Vineyard Garden

With so many breathtaking varieties available, how do you choose the right rose for your landscape? Whether you are looking to cover a classic picket fence, fill a sunny border, or plant a low-maintenance native, Vineyard Gardens is here to help you select the perfect match for your property.

Here is a breakdown of the primary rose categories and a sampling of the beautiful varieties we are carrying at the nursery this season.

David Austin Roses photo by keith kurman

CLIMBING ROSES

Climbing roses are spectacular for adding vertical color to fences, arbors, or trellises. You can easily train these vigorous growers to climb in any direction by gently tying the canes as they grow.

New Dawn: One of the most popular climbing roses. Its pale pink blooms offer the iconic look famously seen draping over the white fences of Edgartown.
Zephirine Drouhin: A stunning, thornless climber featuring deep rose-pink flowers and a strong, fruity fragrance. Great for training over high-traffic walkways, arches, seating areas, or doorways where you won't have to worry about anyone getting snagged.
Tess of the d'Urbervilles (David Austin): A compact climber producing striking crimson-red blooms with a medium, classic Old Rose fragrance.
Bathsheba (David Austin): An elegant climber sporting apricot-toned flowers and a unique, beautiful scent.

Climbing New Dawn Rose (David Austin Roses)

SHRUB ROSES

Shrub roses are upright, bushy plants that offer incredible versatility. They are perfect for hedges, mixed garden beds, or stand-alone focal points.

Classic & Native Shrub Favorites

Knock Out® Roses: Famous for a reason! These are exceptional, continuous repeat-bloomers that flower much longer than traditional rose bushes. They maintain a tidy, mounded shape when pruned correctly (note: they do not climb).
Rosa palustris (Swamp Rose): A fantastic native, multi-branched shrub boasting intensely fragrant pink blooms and fleshy red rose hips. This plant is a true ecological powerhouse; as a keystone wetland species, it prevents soil erosion while supporting an incredible diversity of wildlife. It serves as a vital larval host for multiple native moths, provides safe, dense nesting sites for songbirds, and offers a critical food source for native bees, butterflies, and birds.
Julia Child: Features warm, pale yellow flowers paired with a delicious licorice and clove scent.
Seafoam: A low, sprawling shrub covered in creamy white blooms with a light, delicate fragrance.
Blanc Double de Coubert: A rugged rugosa hybrid known for its intensely fragrant, pure white double blooms.

David Austin Shrub Roses:

David Austin varieties are world-renowned for combining the romantic, multi-petaled double flowers of Old Roses with the disease resistance and repeat-blooming power of modern varieties.

Vanessa Bell: Soft, pale yellow flowers with a fragrance reminiscent of green tea. Forms a bushy, upright shrub (4’ x 3’).
Desdemona: Beautiful white blooms flushed with a pinkish hue. Features a complex Old Rose fragrance with hints of almond blossom, cucumber, and lemon zest.
Gertrude Jekyll: A large shrub with bright pink blooms and a quintessential, rich Old Rose scent.
Olivia Rose Austin: A well-balanced medium shrub with soft, mid-pink flowers and a delightful, fruity fragrance.
The Fairy: A charming, smaller shrub that stays compact, producing clusters of light pink flowers with a mild scent.

GROUND COVER ROSES

These low-growing, sprawling varieties are ideal for the front of garden borders, slopes, or erosion control. They thrive in full sun and add a vibrant carpet of color.

Rosa rugosa (Beach Rose): Our naturalized beach rose is hands-down the most salt-tolerant and drought-tolerant rose around. Perfect for coastal Island landscapes.

MINIATURE & CONTAINER ROSES

Do you dream of growing roses but have limited garden space? We’ve brought in a few different varieties of dwarf roses to give you the opportunity to grow these great cut flowers right on your patio or deck!

ROSE CARE

To get the absolute most out of your roses, keep these three golden rules in mind: Roses love full sun, well-drained soil, and plenty of organic nutrients!

Feed Them Now: Spring is the perfect time to apply a high-quality fertilizer to kickstart the blooming season. We highly recommend Espoma Plant-tone or Rose-tone for organic, steady feeding.
Mind the Drainage: Whether planting in a garden bed or a large patio container, ensure the roots never sit in waterlogged soil.

Looking for something different? We’ve only scratched the surface of the incredible rose varieties we carry. Stop by Vineyard Gardens, and our team will help you find the perfect rose to elevate your home landscape!

PLANT PROFILE: PEONIES

MAY GARDEN TIPS

TOMATOES

May 20, 2026 Karen Logan

TOMATOES

(Solanum lycopersicon)

The Ultimate Guide to Summer Tomatoes: History, Planting, and Choosing Your Varieties

The history of the tomato stretches back to 500 BC. In fact, early records show that a vibrant array of tomato cultivars was regularly displayed at the ancient Aztec market in Tenochtitlan, ranging in color from the brightest reds to the deepest yellows.

Today, tomato season is officially upon us! At Vineyard Gardens, we take immense pride in our tomato selection, growing our unique varieties right here from seed. We partner with trusted, regional sources like Fedco Seeds to bring you exceptional heirloom varieties, alongside high-yield, disease-resistant options. Whether you are looking for sweet cherry tomatoes, mid-sized sandwich slicers, or extra-large beefsteaks, we have the perfect plant for your garden.

Guide to Planting Success

Because tomatoes require a long, warm growing season, it is now too late to start them from seed at home. For the best results, we recommend starting with our vigorous, greenhouse-grown young plants.

Sun & Soil: Tomatoes are heat-loving plants that thrive in full sun and rich, nutrient-dense soil. Always plant them safely after the last spring frost.
Container Gardening: If you are growing in containers, choose a large pot with excellent drainage. Cherry tomatoes are particularly fantastic candidates for patio pots.
The Right Soil: Always use high-quality potting soil for containers rather than garden soil. We highly recommend Coast of Maine Potting Soil, which is specially formulated with organic compost for the perfect balance of aeration, nutrients, and drainage.

Understanding Your Options: Heirloom vs. Hybrid

To help you choose the best fit for your garden, here is a complete breakdown of the two primary types of tomatoes we carry at the nursery.

Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirlooms are open-pollinated varieties (pollinated naturally by wind or insects) that have been grown consistently for 40 years or more without crossbreeding. This natural process allows them to remain genetically stable from one year to the next. Grown locally and allowed to ripen fully on the vine, they are the gold standard for pure, complex flavor.

The Pros:
- Gardeners widely agree that heirlooms deliver exceptional flavor and are often superior to commercially-produced varieties. This is because they are typically grown locally and allowed to ripen fully on the vine.
- Many heirlooms have unique shapes and sport a variety of colors, including purple, yellow, white, orange, pink, red, green, black and striped.
The Cons:
- Heirlooms take longer to mature and produce fewer tomatoes than hybrids.
- They are more susceptible to pests and fungal diseases.
- Their delicate skins are prone to cracking and splitting.
- Unusual, misshapen or inconsistent tomatoes.

Hybrid Tomatoes

Hybrids are created by carefully crossbreeding two distinct varieties to achieve a dependable combination of specific, desirable traits. They typically yield a crop that is uniform in both appearance and timing. Some of those characteristics may be bigger in size, better disease resistance, dependability, less required care, early maturity, higher yield, and/or specific plant size. At Vineyard Gardens, we carry exceptional hybrids like Burpee’s Big Boy and Big Beef (two of our largest varieties), as well as Celebrity, a highly reliable, mid-sized, disease-resistant favorite.

The Pros:
- Hybrids are engineered for peak performance.
- They have a reputation for not being as susceptible to diseases and pests.
- Hybrids are known for yielding tomatoes of similar size and with fewer blemishes.
- They offer higher yields, earlier maturity and require less maintenance overall.
- Harvested hybrid tomatoes have staying power. They endure the long hours on at the roadside farm stand better than heirlooms

The Cons:
- The uniform crops often sacrifice that deep, complex flavor found in heirlooms.
- According to experts, long term hybrids don't produce seeds as strong as what birthed them. However, many gardeners claim they save hybrid seeds year to year which produce seedlings and fruit that is true to the original hybrid.

Visit Us This Week!

Whether you want the unmatched, gourmet flavor of an heirloom or the dependable, heavy harvest of a hybrid, stop by Vineyard Gardens today. Our tables are fully stocked with healthy, sun-ready plants to get your summer crop off to a perfect start!

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES VARIETIES at VINEYARD GARDENS

*Description of tomatoes comes from the Fedco Catalog

COSMONAUT VOLKOV - ORGANIC (65 days) What makes Cosmonaut so special is it’s sweet, rich and full bodied juice. Fedco catalog editor noted her “Cosmonauts ripened nice fruits outdoors into early October one year, weeks after her other slicers had croaked.” (*Fedco)

BIZHIKI - ORGANIC (75 days)

RUTGERS 250 TOMATO - ORGANIC (75 days) This ½ lb deep red slicer is smooth, solid, blemish and crack free. It’s a perfect palm size, holding and ripening off the vine for at least 10 days. And a real sandwich-maker: tangy-tart with tomato-y depth, and lightly sweet. But it’s also meaty, juicy and firm without being hybrid fiberboard dry or grainy. (*Fedco)

ROSE DE BERNE TOMATO - ORGANIC (80 days) It is widely considered in France, Germany and Switzerland to be the best-flavored tomato. Only medium-sized yet delivers the robust flavor of the bigger types. A recent taste test confirmed it’s the "best pink for it’s size unblemished globes are perfectly round. The only “heirloom to resist the onslaught of tomato diseases in the cold of August 2017 and then ripen beautifully in the warmth of Sept”. (*Fedco)

GERMAN JOHNSON - ORGANIC: An heirloom known for it’s copious yields of pink meaty fruits often exceeding 1lb. Mild with some sweetness.(*Fedco)

PINK BRANDYWINE TOMATO - ORGANIC (82 days) Pink Brandywine is the heirloom that launched a movement, leading many gardeners to be flavor-positive preservation-aware seed-savers. Oblate meaty beefsteak with deep flavor and perfect hints of tart. Fruits average right around a pound, ripening unevenly throughout the season, often preferring cool early fall to peak heat of August. (*Fedco)

WEISNICHT'S UKRAINIAN TOMATO - ORGANIC (85 days) In 2015 it won first prize in the heirloom category in Boston. The oft-bi-lobed medium large 8-18oz scrumptious pink fruits are sparse seed bearers. The flavor is sweet rich and complex with delicious acid overtones. (*Fedco)

GARDEN PEACH TOMATO - ORGANIC (71 days) Yellow fruits blush pink when ripe and have thin fuzzy skins somewhat like peaches, soft-skinned, juicy and very sweet. Light fruity taste is not what you’d expect in a tomato. Burpee in 1893 called it “delicate, melting in the mouth like a grape.” Jim Stockwell from North Carolina would not be without it. “Not only are they early and prolific but their unusual flavor and no core sizes make them perfect for grilling without falling apart.” (*Fedco)

GOLDIE - ORGANIC (75 days) Deep orange beefsteak fruits. Several people who grew our Heirloom Mix said Goldie was their favorite. (*Fedco)

CHEROKEE PURPLE TOMATO - ORGANIC (77 days) Said to have originated with the Cherokee Indians. Best tasting heirloom. Dusky brownish-purple skin, dark green shoulders and brick-red flesh. The real attraction is their rich taste, described as “sweet rich juicy winey,” “delicious sweet,” and “rich Brandywine flavor”. (*Fedco)

BLACK KRIM TOMATO - ORGANIC (80 days) At half green and still firm they are already dead ripe and perfectly delicious. Iridescent purple on the outside usually with dark green-black shoulders.an unusual juicy yet meaty taste and texture. (*Fedco)

PINEAPPLE TOMATO OG (85 days) ”I roast these exceptionally sweet red streaked yellow tomatoes in a hot oven, then saute with garlic, rosemary and extra virgin olive oil and throw over pasta.” Michelle Owen garden author. Pineapple may be the best striped tomato. Typically grows huge fruits in excess of 1lb. Cut in half it looks like the interior of a pineapple except with yellow and red marbling. Doesn’t taste like a pineapple, unique, mild, low, acid fruity sweetness. (*Fedco)

AUNT RUBY'S GERMAN GREEN TOMATO - ORGANIC (85 days) Until you try it, you won’t believe a green tomato could be this good. I rate it second only to Brandywine for flavor and it is on just about everyone’s top-ten list. Don’t allow them to get too soft before picking. The green flesh of this beefsteak is faintly marbled with pink. Flavor sweet and tart, rich and spicy. Flavor deteriorates when cold weather sets in. (*Fedco)

AMISH PASTE TOMATO - ORGANIC (85 days) Listed members’ comments tell all: “large red meaty fruit,” “wonderful paste variety,” “great flavor for cooking, canning or fresh eating,” “the standard by which I judge canning tomatoes,” “huge production,” “great for sauces, salsa, canning.” Larger and better than Roma. Wisconsin heirloom from Amish farmers in the 1870s.(*Fedco)

BEEFSTEAK POLE - ORGANIC “Century-old favorite not only for sandwiches, but also any dish calling for rich, tomato flavor. Vines are so vigorous (up to 6' or more) you will need a sturdy wire cage to support them and the 1–2-pound fruits! Produces summer to fall.” (Botanical Interest)

WATERMELON BEEFSTEAK “Perhaps the best-tasting pink tomato we have ever eaten, this variety is a winner for its refreshing flavor. Super prolific, easy to grow and mighty fine flavor! We love to scoop the firm meaty flesh with a melon baller for salads and snacking.” (Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds)

MORTGAGE LIFTER- Huge heirloom beefsteak. Mild sweet flavor.

ROMA -

CHERRY TOMATOES

HONEYDROP CHERRY TOMATO - ORGANIC (62 days) Honeydrop’s sweet juicy fruity honey-colored treats taste almost like white grapes. They are much less prone to cracking in wet weather than Sun Gold. Great for earliness, sweetness and complexity. (*Fedco) According to Fedco Honeydrop Cherries are better than Sungold.

BLACK CHERRY TOMATO - ORGANIC (75 days) Dusky color and complex flavor typical of the best black tomatoes, juicy and delicious. Somewhat late for a cherry tomato, fruit ripens slowly and individually until frost, but worth the wait. (*Fedco)

PRINCIPE BORGHESE - ORGANIC (75days) Used for sundried tomatoes as it has few seeds and little juice Bears small red fruits in prolific clusters over a long season. (*Fedco)

AOSTA VALLEY We had seed from 2021

HYBRID CHERRY TOMATOES

SUN GOLD CHERRY TOMATO (57 days) To quote one customer, “Without these little babies, there’s no summer.” A perfect combination of deep sweetness with a hint of acid tartness. They ripen very early to a rich apricot color and keep producing till frost. Very prone to split so pick early when rains are forecast. (*Fedco)

JULIET (60days) Little plum shaped fruits come in clusters everywhere, each truss bearing 6-8 of the 1-2oz grapes. “Juliet is my favorite tomato for drying. Cut them in half, flip out the seeds and dehydrate…they are like tomato raisins, chewy and sweet to just eat or on a pizza” Lynn Sagalyn (*Fedco)

SWEET TREATS (75days) Large fruits come in clusters of 12-15 per truss. Ripens from pink to deep rose. Wait for full color to harvest. (*Fedco)

SUPER SWEET 100 CHERRY TOMATO (78 days) Like the famous Sweet 100, but with more disease resistance. Very popular hybrid cherry tomato ripens clusters of 1" round sweet fruits. Should be staked. Will split in rainy conditions.

YELLOW PEAR FARGO - (82 days) About twice the size of regular pear tomatoes, the meaty morsels are crack resistant. (*Fedco)

HONEY BUNCH GRAPE (62 days) Crack resistant. Sweet with honeyed nuance. Wait until it ripens fully to a bright red in the field. (*Fedco)

HARTMAN’S YELLOW GOOSEBERRY (70-75 days) Sweet, mild, tasty and light golden-yellow in color.

SEEDS

“Saving Tomato Seed is easy. Remove stem-end and crush the fully ripe fruit into a container. Ferment uncovered for a few days until slurry forms a moldy cap. Rinse in a fine strainer and dry seed on a coffee filter. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow open-pollinated varieties and separate by 50ft.” (*Fedco)

WARM WEATHER VEGETABLES

May 20, 2026 Karen Logan

TIME TO PLANT YOUR

WARM WEATHER

VEGETABLES

As we slowly move into the summer season, it is safe to plant out your warm weather vegetables. Transitioning your garden into the warm season requires a few key steps to ensure a bountiful harvest later this summer.

Support: Stake your vines, tomatoes, and climbing veggies now so they have structural support as they grow.

Moisture Control: Mulch or top-dress around your vegetable beds. This simple step conserves moisture during hot days and keeps weeds from competing with your crops.

Warm Weather Crops to Plant Now

All the warm-season classics can go into the ground today. At the nursery, we have carefully grown many of these crops.

From Starter Pots: Tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are ready in small pots for easy transplanting.
From Peat Pots: Cucumbers, zucchini, and summer squash are growing in peat pots that can be planted directly into the ground to protect their sensitive roots!
From Direct Seed: Beans and corn do best when sown straight into your garden beds. Just remember to keep the soil consistently moist until they germinate.

The Herb Garden & Edible Flowers

Add flavor, fragrance, and essential pollinators to your vegetable plots with our extensive selection of fresh herbs and edible blooms:

Annual Herbs: Fresh Basil, Parsley, Dill, Rosemary, Chervil, Fennel, Summer Savory, and Marjoram.
Perennial Herbs: Build a permanent herb bed with our beautiful selection of Thyme, Tarragon, Sage, Oregano, Sweet Woodruff, and Lavender.
Edibles & Pollinator Favorites: Brighten up your salads and your garden paths with edible flowers like Violas, Bachelor's Buttons, Calendula, Borage, and Nasturtiums.

Planting Your "Second Crop"

Don't forget that now is also the perfect window to start a second round of cool-weather favorites for a continuous harvest.

Direct-seed a second crop of carrots and beets.
We have fresh packs of lettuce and arugula ready to go into the ground right now.

Plant now and enjoy the edible bounty of your efforts later!

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TOMATOES

Tomato season is upon us and there are so many varieties available. How do you choose which to grow? The first step is to understand the differences between heirloom and hybrid tomatoes. Both varieties have their strengths and weaknesses.

Heirloom vs. Hybrid

With so many incredible tomato varieties available, choosing the right one for your garden comes down to understanding the distinct advantages of heirlooms versus hybrids.

Heirloom Tomatoes: Unmatched Flavor

Heirlooms are open-pollinated varieties (pollinated naturally by wind or insects) that have been passed down and grown consistently for at least 40 years.

The Pros: Gardeners widely agree that heirlooms deliver exceptional flavor. Because they are typically grown locally and allowed to ripen fully on the vine, they offer a rich, nostalgic taste you won't find anywhere else.
The Cons: Because they haven’t been selectively crossbred, they tend to produce smaller yields. They are also more susceptible to pests and fungal diseases, and their delicate skins are prone to cracking and splitting.

Hybrid Tomatoes: Dependability & Yield

Hybrids have been carefully crossbred to achieve a specific combination of desirable traits.

The Pros: Hybrids are engineered for peak performance. They offer excellent disease resistance, higher yields, earlier maturity, bigger size and require less maintenance overall.
The Cons: They produce highly uniform crops in both appearance and timing, the classic choice for a dependable supermarket look, but they often sacrifice that deep, complex flavor found in heirlooms.

TOMATOES: HEIRLOOM VS HYBRID

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PEPPERS

We carry a variety of different peppers from sweet bell peppers to a range of hot peppers and Shishito Peppers

**HOT PEPPERS**
**——————**

*Early Jalepeno*
*Chili Peppers*
*Czeck Black*
*Jaluv an Attitude*
*Red Long Slim*
*Annaheim*
*Banana*

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BASIL

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SQUASH & CUCUMBERS

Cucumbers are ready to be planted! Whether you love a crisp salad topper or want to try your hand at homemade pickles, we have a variety to suit your garden. This season, our lineup includes classic slicing and pickling varieties, alongside sweet, crisp Japanese cucumbers.

SQUASH
——————

*Honeynut Butternut*
*Squash*
*(chefs go crazy over*
*this squash because it*
*has a soft skin that*
*can be eaten, unlike*
*most butternut*
*squashes)*
*Spaghetti Squash*
*Summer Squash (Yellow*
*Crookneck &*
*Straightneck)*

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NASTURTIUMS

We carry a variety of colors.

NASTURTIUMS
——————

*Milkmaid (white)*
*Troika Mix*
*Moonlight (white)*
*Jewel Cherry Rose*
*Whirlybird Tangerine*
*Whirlybird Cream*
*Troika Cream*
*Jewel Primrose*

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OTHER WARM WEATHER EDIBLES: ZUCCHINI, EGGPLANT & MUSKMELON

MAY GARDENING TIPS

LAVENDER

MANDEVILLAS

May 17, 2026 Karen Logan

MANDEVILLAS

Bring the Tropics to your Backyard

Looking to add vibrant, long-lasting color to your garden, patio, or porch this summer? Mandevillas are a beautiful and reliable choice. With their lush foliage and stunning trumpet-shaped blooms, these tropical vines thrive in warm weather and full sun, making them perfect for brightening up containers, trellises, hanging baskets, and more.

How to Care for Mandevillas:

Mandevillas bloom non-stop all summer, adding months of color with minimal effort. Their growth habit makes them ideal for vertical accents, while bushier types are great for spilling from pots or hanging baskets. Best of all, they’re heat-tolerant and easy to care for.

Sunlight: Provide full sun, 6+ hours a day for the best bloom production.
Watering: Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy. Water when the top inch feels dry.
Feeding: Fertilize every 2–4 weeks with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to keep flowers coming.
Support: Use a trellis for vining varieties to climb and spread

Stunning Color Options:

This season’s selection includes a gorgeous range of colors:

Classic White: elegant and clean
Carmine Red: rich and bold
Soft Pink: gentle and romantic
Deep Red: dramatic and eye-catching
Apricot: a warm, tropical tone
Giant Peach Sunrise: a sun-kissed glow
Double Pink Blush: full, layered bloom

Available in a variety of colors and sizes, from quarts to 5-gallon pots. We have a Mandevilla to suit every space and style!

Whether you're creating a lush entryway, framing a sunny window, or building a vertical garden wall, Mandevillas bring beauty, color, and a touch of the tropics all summer long.

MAY GARDEN TIPS

SCREENING FOR NATURAL PRIVACY

May 15, 2026 Karen Logan

Screening for Natural Privacy

Balancing Budget, Environment, and Aesthetics

Screening is one of the most frequently requested landscape functions we encounter. From a homeowner’s perspective, the request seems simple: “I need privacy from my neighbors.” However, from a designer and grower’s perspective, creating a successful, long-lasting living wall is a beautiful but complex puzzle.

To understand how we approach this challenge, we look at a recent Island project, followed by the core principles that dictate a successful screening design.

A Recent Client Scenario: Instant Restoration

Over the winter, a client watched as their neighbor’s property was cleared for the construction of a new, two-story house. Overnight, their front yard, once a mature, oak forest, was transformed into an open construction site. The clients reached out to Vineyard Gardens to help them restore the natural privacy they were accustomed to.

The Solution: Vineyard Gardens collaborated with Maciel Land and Tree to bring back the natural barrier. Utilizing Maciel’s giant 90-inch diameter tree spade, we successfully transplanted five mature, 20-foot Thuja plicata (Western Red Cedar) directly into the void. The result was seamless; this new screen looks as though the trees have been growing there for decades, providing instant natural relief and peace of mind.

While a large-scale transplant is the ultimate instant fix, every property requires a tailored approach based on three critical factors: Budget, Environment, and Taste.

A couple of years later once established

1. The Budget: Time vs. Money

Privacy is a universal need regardless of budget, but your financial investment directly correlates to the time it will take to achieve your end goal.

The larger the tree, shrub, or grass, the more expensive it is to source and the more labor-intensive it is to install. Furthermore, even very large transplants require a couple of years of dedicated care to re-establish their supporting root systems.
Homeowners are often tempted to choose the fastest-growing plants available. However, fast-growing varieties are often weak-wooded, making them highly susceptible to high winds and winter storm damage, or they can become invasive, quickly outgrowing their intended footprint.

The Economical Choice: Often, the hardiest and most economical solution is to start your screening vision with smaller, high-quality plants that can quickly adapt to the native soil and rapidly establish themselves.

2. The Environment: Above and Below Ground

Martha's Vineyard may be small, but it features an incredibly diverse range of microclimates and habitats. A plant that creates a flawless screen in Vineyard Haven yard will not necessarily survive in Chilmark.

When designing a living screen, remember that what you see above ground is only half the plant; what happens below is even more critical.

Soil Types: The sandy, nutrient-poor soils of Oak Bluffs drain instantly, while other pockets of the Island feature heavy clay soils that retain water and can slowly suffocate new roots.
Moisture Levels: Ample groundwater is a blessing for some species, but it will quickly cause root rot in drought-loving plants like Juniper.
The Browse Line: Deer pressure varies heavily across the Island. Up-island, heavy deer browsing can decimate certain evergreen screens in a single winter.

3. Taste vs. Practicality: Cultivating Flexibility

When walking through the nursery, it is easy to become overwhelmed by the beautiful varieties on display. But while we may carry 15 different types of evergreens, your specific site conditions might dictate that only 3 or 4 will actually thrive.

Success requires observing your unique growing conditions and remaining flexible in your aesthetic expectations:

Sun vs. Shade: If planted in the shade, sun-loving Junipers will languish for years before dying. Conversely, if planted in full sun and exposed to high winds, classic Arborvitae will scorch and lose their uniform shape.
The Deer Workaround: If you have high deer pressure, native American Hollies (Ilex opaca) are an excellent shade-tolerant choice, but deer will often defoliate them up to the 4 to 5 foot "browse line" over the winter. To counter this, we recommend pairing Hollies with an under-planting of Clethra (Summersweet) or Winterberry, both of which are shade-tolerant, deer-resistant, deciduous native shrubs that elegantly fill the lower gaps where the deer nibble.

Carpinus as a hedge (at Cronig's up-Island)

The Deciduous Alternative for Summer Residents

If you primarily live on the Island during the summer season, you don't necessarily need a dense evergreen. Deciduous screening options offer exceptional texture, faster establishment, and beautiful seasonal transitions:

Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus 'Fastigiata'): A stunning, upright deciduous tree that forms a dense, natural-looking screen in just a few years, even when starting from a smaller, economical plant size. They also transplant beautifully as larger specimens, offering a solution for every pocketbook.
Native American Beech (Fagus grandifolia): A highly dependable native screening tree. Beeches naturally hold onto their lower branches, and once leafed out, they provide an impenetrable summer screen. As an added bonus, they tend to hold onto their dried, warm-copper fall foliage throughout the winter (marcescence), extending their screening utility deep into the off-season.

Let Us Help You Design & Install Your Screen

Whether you need an immediate intervention or a thoughtful, budget-friendly blueprint using smaller native species, the landscape team at Vineyard Gardens is here to help you navigate the process. Every property on the Island is unique, and selecting the right plant for the right place is the key. We will work with you to analyze your soil, evaluate your light, and choose the perfect palette for your property.

LANDSCAPE PROJECTS

LANDSCAPE SERVICES

FOXGLOVE

May 13, 2026 Karen Logan

FOXGLOVES

Digitalis purpurea

Digitalis purpurea: a stunning, classic species of Foxglove with a wide array of beautiful cultivars to choose Botanically, Digitalis purpurea is classified as a biennial. This means they spend their first year establishing strong root systems and lush green foliage, followed by a dramatic show of flowers and seeds in their second year. Because they are overzealous self-seeders, they often give the illusion of being a permanent perennial in the garden, returning year after year in delightful unexpected spots.

Digitalis purpurea cultivars available:

‘Alba’: Classic, crisp white spikes that illuminate shady corners.
‘Apricot Beauty’: Soft, pastel apricot-pink blooms for a romantic cottage feel.
‘Excelsior Group’: Known for flowers that ring all the way around the stem, rather than nodding to one side.
‘Pam’s Choice’: Striking white throats heavily speckled with deep burgundy.
Camelot Series (Available in Cream, White, Lavender, and Pink): Renowned for being heavily budded and uniform.
Dalmatian Series (Available in Purple and Peach): A fast-growing, compact series with prominent interior spotting.
‘Arctic Fox Rose’: An exceptional hybrid known for its long bloom time and vibrant rose-pink color.

A Foxglove in its second year presenting a spectacular spike of flowers.

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GROWING DIGITALIS

In the late spring garden, Foxgloves bring striking color and dramatic architectural height to ornamental beds. Best of all for Island homeowners, they are completely deer and rabbit resistant!

Ideal Growing Conditions

Soil & Moisture: Digitalis thrives in moist, organically rich, slightly acidic, and well-drained soil. Unlike drought-tolerant perennials, foxgloves require consistent moisture and must not be allowed to dry out completely.
Light: They perform beautifully in full sun to partial shade.
Bloom Window: Expect a spectacular show from May through June.

The Biennial Lifecycle: Let Them Naturalize

Because common foxgloves are biennials, they reseed and colonize the landscape in the most interesting and beautiful ways.

Nursery Tip: While removing spent flower spikes can encourage smaller secondary blooms, deadheading is not recommended if you want the plants to naturalize. Letting that primary, most impressive spike go to seed ensures a permanent, self-sustaining colony in your garden for years to come.

Design & Landscape Uses

With a height range spanning from 2 to 5 feet (such as the more compact 3-to-4-foot Camelot Series), foxgloves are incredibly versatile. They are perfect for structural background plantings in cottage beds, mixed borders, and look spectacular when allowed to drift through shaded woodland edges and naturalized areas. As an added bonus, their tubular blooms are a magnet for local hummingbirds!

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Did You Know? The Art & Science of Foxglove

While modern gardeners prize Foxglove (Digitalis) for its dramatic, towering blooms, this striking plant carries a rich and complex history as a powerful medicinal agent. The dried leaves of Digitalis purpurea contain digoxin, a cardiac glycoside used to this day to treat heart failure and cardiac arrhythmia. Its medical properties were first formally popularized in 1785 by the British physician and botanist William Withering, who documented how precise doses helped the heart pump more efficiently.

Perhaps the most intriguing historical footnote involves the painter Vincent van Gogh. Some art historians theorize that Van Gogh was prescribed digitalis to treat his epilepsy. In high doses, digoxin poisoning can cause a visual condition called xanthopsia, which tints a person's vision yellow and causes them to see glowing halos around light sources and objects.

Many have wondered if this side effect influenced Van Gogh’s famous "yellow period" and his signature use of swirling halos. In fact, Van Gogh painted his physician, Dr. Gachet, holding a foxglove stalk, and even depicted himself holding the plant in a portrait. While the theory behind his color palette remains captivating speculation, it underscores the undeniable, centuries-old power of this ordinary garden favorite.

Vineyard Gardens front bed with many biennials on display; Angelica, Echium, a couple types of Digitalis and Fennel.

BIENNIALS

SUCCESSION GARDENING

BIENNIALS

May 12, 2026 Karen Logan

BIENNIALS

by keith kurman

GARDENERS and POETS

After strolling through our display gardens at Vineyard Gardens Nursery a couple years ago, a famous landscape architect remarked at how magical and elusive the biennials were. This is a particularly encouraging thing to hear, not that we weren’t already aware of how beautiful they were, but that our diligence was rewarded by someone noticing the skill required to achieve the effect.

An important part of gardening is weeding and there are two axioms gardeners use all the time,

“A weed is a plant growing in the wrong place.”

“One man’s weed is another man’s wildflower.”

With this in mind, it is important to attend to the needs of a particular garden. It can be difficult early in the season to distinguish which seedlings are weeds and which are plants you want in your garden. This is true of both biennials and annuals. We’re not talking about annuals here so lets stick with the biennials.

Here, Papaver somniferum (Opium Poppy) 'Lauren's Grape' in the early Spring garden. They need to be thinned to thrive.

Hard to tell the difference between the Impatiens balfourii and Impatiens pallida (our native Jewelweed) seedlings here, but one or the other has to go! The more pointed and sharply serrated leaf is I. balfourii and the more rounded, scalloped leaf,… — Hard to tell the difference between the Impatiens balfourii and Impatiens pallida (our native Jewelweed) seedlings here, but one or the other has to go! The more pointed and sharply serrated leaf is I. balfourii and the more rounded, scalloped leaf, I. pallida. I would loose the Jewelweed in this case.

Weeding and thinning, the stock in trade of a gardener. Here the little Poppy seedlings (Papaver rhoeas) are far too dense and need to be majorly thinned. At this stage the seedlings can be carefully redistributed around the garden.

Luckily, biennial seeds tend to germinate in warmer weather, in late June and July. They also germinate readily from fresh, current season seed. So you have to be particularly vigilant when weeding the garden from July to September so as not to weed out the first year cycle of what will be next year’s magic. If you are thinking in these terms then you can have biennials flowering every year, not every other year as you might expect. The difference being that they are just not the same plant as the year before but their progeny. It seems like a simple enough proposition but that hop-scotching of years is much of what makes biennials so challenging but also so rewarding, unexpected and magical. To further complicate the issue, some biennials will carry over into a third year. They will however be not so vigorous and can carry over with them diseases and pests that can spread to your fresh stock. Once they have gotten to this point it is better to remove them, however hard it might be to toss them on the compost pile.

A hollyhock

shot up to meet

the summer solstice

(Masaoka Shiki)

Impatiens balfourii, a house favorite. A reseeding annual, its most effective when densly colonizing shady pockets of the garden. Discerning the seedlings from similar-looking weeds is critical to retaining them in the garden.

A Foxglove in its second year presenting a spectacular spike of flowers. I love the scalloped lip of the petals on this wildling.

MYSTERIOUS, LIKE MAGIC

Biennials are by nature herbaceous flowering plants. That may seem obvious but those flowers are what we are going for to achieve the effect. For clarity let’s review the difference between the growth habits of the plants in our flower gardens.

Annuals have the shortest life cycle. Their seed germinates in the Spring, they then rush to develop leaves, roots, flowers and seed in one short growing season before dying at the first frost. Annuals are determined to set seed in their first year so they are well suited as cut flowers because if you keep cutting the flowers off the plant it will continue to produce them until they manage to set seed. If those seeds are left on the plant or collected, saved and sown the following year, will produce an annual crop of flowers. Typical examples might be, Poppies, Cosmos, Zinnias, Impatiens or Petunias.

Perennials can be a confusing group but the axiom associated with them goes,

“Perennials are plants that, had they lived, would come back year after year.”

There is wisdom in this simple statement. Hardiness, growing conditions and pests can all challenge our best efforts to keep perennials going year after year in the garden. That said, we can best describe perennials as, flowering plants that retain a dormant crown and root system below ground through the winter, producing leaves and flowers every successive year. Perennials will usually multiply at the crown and/or by lateral roots, thus the need to periodically lift and divide them to keep them fresh and healthy in the garden. Examples of classic perennials might be Iris, Peonies, Phlox, Hostas and Astilbe, honestly far too many to list!

So you can see how biennials fall somewhere between these two groups. The great garden writer, William Robinson, in his seminal book from around 1890, “The English Flower Garden”, says, “…the line between biennial and annual is not a strict one… as the work of raising all is, to a great extent, the same.” Well, that’s easy for him to say, he was gardening in England which we know has a milder climate and sweeter soils than we do here, blurring the lines between all the flowering plants.

Quite simply, Biennials produce in their first year leaf and root and in their second year flower and seed. There are characteristics of both Annuals and Perennials within Biennials carrying with them the same caveats, that hardiness, growing conditions and pests can conspire to frustrate our best intentions. For biennials you could add to this list, over zealous weeders. Some of the most outstanding examples being, Foxglove, Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Campanula and Verbascum also known as Mullein.

The frosted, metalic foliage of Verbascum thapsus, the biennial, Giant Mullein. This is the plant in its second year preparing to bolt. The brilliant yellow flowers will appear along the length of its nearly 7' stalks. A dramatic, sculptural element… — The frosted, metalic foliage of Verbascum thapsus, the biennial, Giant Mullein. This is the plant in its second year preparing to bolt. The brilliant yellow flowers will appear along the length of its nearly 7' stalks. A dramatic, sculptural element in the field or garden.

Perfectly representitive of the habit of a biennial, Catanache caerulia (Cupids Dart) at mid-summer.

Biennials are actually much more common than you might think, just over in the vegetable garden. The colorful, showy flowers of foxglove, hollyhock and verbascum are close relatives of some of our most common food crops. The parsley’s, mustards, cabbages and carrots are all biennials! It’s just that we aren’t growing them so much for their flowers as we are for their first year leaves and/or root systems e.g.radishes, carrots etc. We’ve all seen our parsley overwinter then with the advent of Spring ‘bolt’ to flowering at which point they become tough and bitter. So we start them every year fresh and harvest them for their first year’s foliar bounty. A second year carrot is a tough and tasteless thing but it is producing a flower of sorts, just not as beautiful as say, its more ornamental cousin, Queen Ann’s Lace.

Now we are really getting into the “weeds”! Some of our favorite biennials for early-mid summer flowers like Money Plant, with its silver dollar-like seedpods in late summer, Lunaria annua, is part of the group that also represents Dame’s Rocket, Hesperis matronalis and Wallflower (Cheiranthus) all of which are in the Mustard family and are often considered weeds due to their tendency for prodigious re-seeding. Queen Ann’s Lace, Daucus carota, from the carrot family, is also considered a weed but they are so lovely growing along the roadside usually together with its associate, Chickory, Cichorium intybus, with its clear, cerulean blue flowers. Both biennials, Chickory and Queen Ann’s Lace are hardy, naturalized exotics not generally considered garden worthy. But this takes us in another direction…

Lunaria annua a radient, reseeding biennial. Weed or wildflower? you choose. These flowers mature into those silver dollar seedpods we love so much in late summer arrangements.

Lupines are properly biennials and put on their best show when left over the Winter in the garden, but these have been started early enough to be flowering size this season.

Digitalis purpurea 'Cream'. The foxgloves, magical faerie plants with notions for potions. These plants didn't overwinter in this position, they were brought in containerized, planted out early in the season, but even at that, they didn't have the f… — Digitalis purpurea 'Cream'. The foxgloves, magical faerie plants with notions for potions. These plants didn't overwinter in this position, they were brought in containerized, planted out early in the season, but even at that, they didn't have the fall-winter cycle 'in the ground' to develop a strong root system.

THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN

Where to ‘place’ biennials in the garden can be challenging. The problem being their two stage growth. In the first year while they’re developing their deep root system, the basil foliage stays tight and low to the ground. Then in their second year they produce a fresh batch of foliage before ‘rocketing’ their flowering stalks up several feet above the base. Left on their own they will often choose the most inappropriate spots, coming up in the crown of your Peonies, in the stonework of your retaining wall or crowding around in the front row. Striking a balance between random and orderly should be our objective. This is easier when planting out starts, but only a little more work when dealing with self-sown seedlings. The seedlings will tend to appear in clumps in the general vicinity of the parent plants. You’ll be able to recognize them once they’ve formed their ‘true leaves’ and at this point they are ready to be thinned and transplanted. Thinning will enable the young plants to to develop into larger, stronger plants and provide dozens more for transplanting. Whether in the flower garden or out on the margins it is often the rouge by the stairs or under the Viburnum, the unexpected, that brings the most charming effect.

Vineyard Gardens can help you introduce biennials into your gardens. Stop by the nursery to see what’s available!

Alcea ficifolia or Antwerp Hollyhock is a species of Hollyhock that appears in a pleasant range of colors and is generally stronger growing and rust resistant plant. Getting them established in the ground through the fall will give yo… — Alcea ficifolia or Antwerp Hollyhock is a species of Hollyhock that appears in a pleasant range of colors and is generally stronger growing and rust resistant plant. Getting them established in the ground through the fall will give you stronger bigger plants than a Spring planting.

The biennial seeding cycle; Foxgloves, Verbascums, Hollyhocks and select perennials are coming along. Watch for them appearing for sale at the nursery ready for planting out later in July through September.

The exquisite Verbascum phoeniceum ‘Violetta’ will keep an evergreen basil rosette over the Winter and spike to flower in the early summer. After that it should reseed and grace your garden for years to come. — The exquisite Verbascum phoeniceum ‘Violetta’ will keep an evergreen basil rosette over the Winter and spike to flower in the early summer. After that it should reseed and grace your garden for years to come.

PEONIES

May 10, 2026 Karen Logan

PEONIES

The Queen of the Spring Garden

Peonies are a stunning genus of woodland plants, prized for their exceptionally large, showy blooms that take center stage in late May and June. These garden favorites prefer rich, well-drained soil and are surprisingly low-maintenance once established.

Unlike many flowering perennials, peonies require very little fertilizer; a simple top-dressing of organic compost in the spring provides all the nutrients they need. To keep your plants healthy, keep an eye out for Botrytis, a black fungal growth that can cause stems to wilt. If you spot it, carefully prune the affected area immediately and dispose of it in the trash (do not compost it) to prevent the fungus from spreading.

Looking for the perfect addition to your mixed beds? Our garden peonies are hardy, clump-forming perennials that thrive in full to part shade.

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PAEONIA LACTIFLORA (HERBACEOUS)

Paeonia lactiflora is a herbaceous, low growing (1-2') clump-forming perennial. Commonly called garden peonies, they are ideal for mixed perennial beds in full to part shade (3+ hours of direct sunlight).

With May being a windy month on the Island, it’s important to remember that these garden peonies require structural support. Their giant, ornamental flowers become quite top-heavy and are liable to snap during spring rain or wind. At Vineyard Gardens, we carry specifically designed peony cages to ensure your floral show stays upright all season long. Be sure to pick some up with your next purchase!

Note: Herbaceous peonies die back completely to the ground in winter, returning with fresh growth each spring.

Paeonia lactiflora we’d like to highlight:

Moon River (double soft cream and pink fragrant flowers)
Sarah Bernhardt (double pink flowers)
Coral Sunset (semi double coral blooms)

Jan Van Leeuwen (single white flowers)
Laura Dessert (double white flowers)
Paul M Wild (double ruby red blooms)
Lady Orchid (double pink flowers)

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PAEONIA X SUFFRUTICOSA (TREE PEONY)

If you haven’t yet experienced the early-season magic of the Tree Peony, now is the perfect time to start. Unlike their herbaceous cousins, Tree Peonies (Paeonia x suffruticosa) develop a persistent, woody structure that stays above ground year-round. This slow-growing, substantial shrub solves the "flopping" problem of garden peonies, providing a sturdy framework that supports its massive flowers without the need for cages or staking.

These easy-to-grow shrubs produce breathtaking single or double blooms as early as May. Ideal for mixed borders and woodland edges, Tree Peonies can eventually reach heights of up to 6 feet, making them a true focal point in the landscape.

If you love the look of giant peony blooms but hate the hassle of support cages, the Tree Peony is your solution.

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ITOH PEONIES

The Best of Both Worlds

The Itoh Peonies are intersectional hybrids. First developed in Tokyo during the 1940s by Toichi Itoh, these stunning plants are a cross between the herbaceous peony and the tree peony. The result is a plant that possesses the "best of both worlds": the lush, clump-forming habit of garden peonies combined with the exceptionally strong stems of the tree peony. This means you get massive, show-stopping flowers that stand tall without the need for caging or external support.
Paeonia Itoh ‘Yellow Crown’: Features fragrant, double-yellow blooms with a striking hint of red at the base of the petals.
Paeonia Itoh ‘Cora Louise’: A showstopper with giant white petals and glowing, deep red centers.

We also carry a smaller quantity of the following:

Itoh Old Rose Dandy
Itoh Misaka
Itoh Takara

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The Cut Flower Standard

While the Netherlands remains the global hub for peony production, Alaskan growers have leveraged their long summer daylight to extend the availability of these blooms worldwide. Whether sourced from across the sea or across the continent, peonies remain a top choice for gardeners and florists alike. They are easy to grow, exceptionally long-lived, and offer a deer-resistant solution for fragrant, show-stopping spring bouquets.

HEUCHERA

(CORAL BELLS)

Stars of the Shade Garden

Not Just Pretty Leaves

A Foliage Powerhouse

Try planting ground covers instead of mulching. They are just as effective, if not more so, at keeping out the weeds!

Where & How to Plant

Heucheras are DEER REISISTANT!

Design Pairings & Garden Uses

Our Favorites

LIVING MULCH:

Perennial

Groundcovers

Try planting ground covers at the base of your shrubs instead of mulching. Ground covers are very effective at keeping weeds out and moisture in!

Groundcovers for Shade to Part-Shade

Exceptional Foliage

Spring Bloomers

Native Ferns (Excellent Massers)

Groundcovers for Sun to Partial Shade

SUCCESSION

GARDENING

AS A GROUNDCOVER

The Great Dixter Inspiration

How it Works

Soft, Early-Season Coverups

The Woodland Understory Shift

Larger Structural Plants

Late-Season Plants

POLLINATION

DYNAMICS

Generalists vs Specialists

Do you want your garden to come alive this summer with bees, butterflies, birds and beneficial insects?

Larval Specialists

Moths, Beetles & Bats: Nightime Pollinators

The Magic of Pollination

Why Native

Plants Matter

Not sure where to begin? Check out the Cape Cod Native Plants website for a fantastic online tool to help you select the right plants for your site conditions.

Pollinator

Power Plants:

Our Favorite Perennials

Native Pollinator Perennial :

Pollinator Perennials:

Native Pollinator Shrubs:

Pollinator Shrubs:

POLLINATOR FRIENDLY TREES

Native Pollinator Trees:

READY FOR

POLLINATOR

GUESTS THIS

SUMMER?

Let your garden be a living, blooming, buzzing celebration of life.

ASTILBE

Bring Vibrant Texture and Color to Your Shade Garden

GROWING ASTILBE

ASTIBLE ATTRACT BUTTERFLIES!

COMPANION PLANTING

CARE

Astilbe Varieties

Stop by the nursery this week to wander through our shade houses and find the perfect texture combination for your woodland garden beds!

HOW

ANNUALS COLONIZE

THE GARDEN

THE MAGIC OF RESEEDING

Tips for

Reseeding Success

TRY THESE!

We have many favorites! The tried and true ones are still around.

Integrating Annuals into Your Garden Design

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Hanging Baskets

Nasturtiums

The Ultimate Easy-to-Grow Annual

Choosing the Right Variety for Your Space

PLANTING & PLACEMENT

SUMMER CARE

HYDRANGEAS

HYDRANGEA

MACROPHYLLA

Big Leaf, Mophead or Lacecap