FALL GREENS!

September 3, 2026 Karen Logan

Cool weather greens & herbs [illustration by karen blackerby logan]

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GREAT TIME TO

PLANT YOUR

FALL GREENS!

As summer winds down and the nights turn crisp, it is the ideal window to plant your cool-weather crops. Varieties like broccoli, greens, arugula, spinach, and kale thrive in autumn conditions. Grow your own crisp lettuce, spicy arugula, tender spinach, and fresh annual herbs like cilantro, parsley, and dill right in your backyard! There is nothing quite like the flavor of homegrown greens harvested straight from the garden.

Why Fall is the Best Season for Greens

Cool autumn nights and crisp morning air cause plants to convert starches into sugars, resulting in sweeter flavor compared to summer-grown crops.
Hardy cool-season greens love the dropping temperatures. Many varieties will continue producing well past the first autumn frosts.
As the weather cools, common garden pests like aphids naturally decline, giving your crops a healthier growing cycle with less upkeep.

Stop by the nursery to pick out your cool-weather plants and enjoy a fresh harvested bounty through the fall season!

ASTERACEAE: THE ASTER FAMILY

September 3, 2026 Karen Logan

New England Asters [illustration by karen blackerby logan]

ASTERACEAE

THE ASTER FAMILY

by Patrick Best

Asters are the hallmark of the late-season garden. While many associate plants like the native white wood aster (Aster divaricatus) or the long-blooming Monch aster (Aster frikartii) with the term “aster”, you may be surprised to learn that the aster family encompasses a huge variety of late-blooming perennials. From goldenrods (Solidago) to sunflowers (Helianthus), and from black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia) to mums (Chrysanthemum), asters are everywhere!

Vineyard natives, white wood aster (Aster divaricatus) and hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula), pair nicely in the late-season garden.

Blue wood aster (Aster cordifolius) is a native aster that is well adapted to partial shade, unlike most asters which prefer sunny conditions.

Morphology

Looking closely at an aster flower, you can see that these compound flowers are actually made up of many smaller, individual florets. Disk flowers make up the center of the bloom and lack petals, while ray flowers encircle the central disk and have one petal each. Not all asteraceous plants have blooms consisting of both disk and ray flowers, but their presence is a helpful way to tell that you’re looking at a species in the aster family.

Ecosystem

In the ecosystem, these nectar-rich plants provide forage for a host of insects, especially the pollinators and bees looking for their final meals before the cold weather sets in. Native asters are far more valuable to the wider ecosystem than annual mums. Next time you walk by a mum, notice the absence of pollinators and then consider planting native asters in your fall pots!

Single-flowered annual mums offer the nectar-rich disk flowers valuable for late-season pollinators. The double-flowered mums only consist of ray flowers and are ecologically inert.

Dahlias are a popular late-season bloomer in the aster family and are well-suited to bouquets.

Garden Uses

Generally starting in August, the asters commonly grown on Martha’s Vineyard bloom well into October, allowing the Vineyard gardener to enjoy a profusion of flowers into the fall.

Zinnias, an aster-family annual, provide a long season of color in the landscape

In the garden, it is vital to ensure that a plant’s habit matches the goals you have for that space. Some plants are more useful for their clumping habit, others for their freely-seeding nature, and still others for their rhizomatous spread, more commonly thought of as groundcover behavior, which allows for colonization of larger spaces. As there are a host of beautiful native plants in the Aster family, it is nice to know that any accidental spread of these plants into the wildlands is an act of ecosystem restoration, and not a sign of invasiveness.

Helen’s Flower (Helenium autumnale) blooms throughout the summer in the Vineyard Gardens display bed.

This fall at the nursery, we have a large variety of Asteraceous plants available:

True Asters:

Twilight (rhizomatous spread)
Little Carlow (clumping)
Blue wood aster (clumping)
White wood aster (rhizomatous spread)
Vasterival (rhizomatous spread)
Prof. Anton von Kippenberg
Aster novi-angliae Alma Potschke (clumping)
Winston Churchill

OTHER PLANTS IN THE ASTERACEAE FAMILY:

Coreopsis
- Zagreb
- Moonbeam
- C. tripteris Gold Standard
Echinacea
- E. pallida
Eupatorium/Eutrochium
- Joe Pye Weed
- Boneset
Helenium
- Moerheim Beauty
- Sombrero
- H. autumnale
Helianthus
- Lemon Queen (rhizomatous spread)
- Maximillian (rhizomatous spread)
Heliopsis
- Summer Sun
- Summer Nights
- Bleeding Hearts

Leucanthemum/Nipponanthemum
- Shasta Daisies (cvs.)
- Montauk Daisies
Liatris
- L. microcephala
- Kobold
- Floristan White and Purple

Solidago
- Loysden Crown
- S. canadensis ‘Crown of Rays’
- Little Lemon
Rudbeckia
- R. triloba Prairie glow (short-lived, seeds around non-aggressively)
- R. subtomentosa Little Henry (clumping)
- R. laciniata Autumn Sun/Herbstsonne (clumping)
Vernonia
- V. noveboracensis
Chrysanthemum
- Hardy (Claire Curtis, Igloo Series, Matchstick…)
- Annuals

Familiar Annuals in the Asteraceae Family:

Dahlia, Cosmos, Marigold, Ageratum, Zinnia

AUTUMN GARDEN

September 1, 2026 Karen Logan

Cornus kousa fruit at Polly Hill Arboretum — Cornus kousa (Asian dogwood) fruit at Polly Hill Arboretum

AUTUMN GARDEN

by Keith Kurman / Updated by Patrick Best

Martha’s Vineyard has long, warm falls that can often linger into December, allowing the ambitious year-round gardener to extend the traditional summer bloom season by months. With insightful planning, you, too, can engineer a full and floriferous garden from early spring straight through the first frost and beyond. Indeed, as the climate continues to warm, the Vineyard gardener need only suffer a few weeks in the dead of winter without something in bloom. However, a garden like this takes careful planning. Some plants don’t begin flowering until September or later, so space must be provisioned such that they may perform to their fullest potential that late in the growing season, when other plants are competing for space. Yielding space in the middle and back of your borders can allow late-blooming perennials to lend texture and substance alongside earlier flowering annuals and bulbs and space to grow into gaps left vacant by the late spring perennial displays. Take this space allocation into consideration when planning your garden beds. Distribute your late flowering plants evenly through the border and stagger height and depth, allowing space for earlier flowers.

Autumn tones in the display gardens at Vineyard Gardens

Challenges With Late-Blooming Plants:

1. STAKING or HEADING BACK: Chrysanthemums (hardy mums), Asters, Phlox paniculata (garden phlox), Nipponanthemum nipponicum (Montauk daisy), and other late-season perennials need pinching back before early July. The extent to which this is done can vary from a conservative tip-out to a more drastic cutting back by one-third to one-half. The Anglophiles among us may know this as the “Chelsea Chop,” in reference to the Chelsea Flower Show, which is held in late spring each year. It’s important to provide support for some of the tall growing perennials early in the season to allow them to grow into your staking system. Bamboo stakes and jute twine are probably the most straightforward approach, but peony hoops and tomato cages can be very effective as well. Staking may seem a little fussy and early in the season, but you’ll be glad you did when the late season storms return.

2. DROUGHT: Irrigation requires constant monitoring, and gardens often require supplemental water during long dry spells. Over the course of the gardening year, any number of things can happen to disturb a basic irrigation system: from root blockage to punctured lines.

3. HERBIVORY: Across the island, it seems that few gardeners are safe from the animals who would make your garden their dinner. From deer to rabbits and chipmunks to avians, there is no shortage of hungry animals as wild habitats are consumed by new development. Regular applications of Bobbex can help dissuade deer from browsing your plants, but I have heard many reports that rabbits are unfazed by the stench and continue munching. For bunny damage, I recommend hot pepper wax (capsaicin), available as a spray and applied regularly to lower growing plants. In areas where repellants fall short, physical barriers such as caging and fencing are the best options. Sorry, up-islanders, I’m talking to you.

4. CATEPILLARS (and other insects): Many native plants play host to the caterpillar larvae of some fantastic moths and butterflies. Considering this, I always recommend doing some research before impulsively reaching for insecticide. If the damage isn’t widespread, I urge you to accept this as a sign that your garden is a part of the wider ecosystem, which is surely something to celebrate! If treatment is necessary, organic options such as Safer Soap, Neem Oil, Pyrethrum, or Bt are best.

Lespedeza thunbergii and Pycnanthemum (Mountain Mint) at Polly Hill Arboretum — Lespedeza thunbergii (bush clover) and Pycnanthemum muticum (mountain mint) at Polly Hill Arboretum

September Border with Crepe Myrtles, Vitex, Rudbeckia and Hibiscus — September border with Crape Myrtles, Vitex, and Rudbeckia

PLANTS THAT ARE LOOKING FANTASTIC IN THE GARDENS RIGHT NOW

PERENNIALS:

Asters, Eupatorium/Eutrochium (Boneset/Joe Pie Weed, both lovely natives), Vernonia (Ironweed), Chrysanthemum/Dendranthema (Hardy Mum), Agastashe (Anise Hyssop), Phlox, Anemone, Tricyrtis (Toad Lilies), Late-Blooming Hostas, Helianthus (Perennial Sunflowers), Hibiscus moscheutos (Rose Mallow), Rudbeckia (Black Eyed Susan and relatives), Kirengeshoma palmata (Yellow Wax Bells), Aconitum (Monkshood), Chelone (Turtlehead), Patrinia scabiosifolia, Pycnanthemum (Mountain Mint), Physostegia (not-so Obedient Plant), Solidago (Goldenrod), Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Hardy Plumbago), Garden Sage (Salvia glabrescens, Salvia koyamae, Salvia uliginosa), Hardy Plectranthus/Rabdosia species, Dicentra ‘White Diamonds’ and ‘Bacchanal’ (Everblooming Bleeding Hearts), Geranium (Cranesbill), Eucomis (Pineapple Lily), Nipponanthemum (Montauk Daisy), Begonia grandis (Hardy Begonia), Persicaria, Colchicum (Fall Crocus), some Sedum, Caryopteris divaricata

Autumn Crocus, Colchicum ‘Waterlily’

Rudbeckia hirta, self-seeding annual

Hardy Mum, Chrysanthemum ‘Clara Curtis’

Kirengeshoma palmata, Dryopteris marginalis

New England Aster (Aster novae-angliae)

Patrinia scabiosifolia

Ginger Lily (Hedychium gardinerianum)

Japanese Anemone and Impatiens balfourii

ANNUALS:

Tropical Salvias (Salvia guaranitaca, Salvia leucantha, etc), Chrysanthemums, Dahlias, Cosmos, Marigolds, Rudbeckia hirta, Tithonia (Mexican Sunflower), Arctotis, Petunias, Celosia, Browallia, Ricinus, Coleus, Hedychium (Ginger Lilies)… and oh so many more!

Coleus and Tithonia "Torch" — Coleus and Tithonia ‘Torch’

Dahlias and Salvia gaurinitica "Black and Blue" — Dahlias with Salvia guaranitaca ‘Black and Blue’

FLOWERING SHRUBS:

Hydrangea paniculata (Panicle Hydrangea), Buddleia (Butterfly Bush) and Spirea (if dead- headed throughout the season), Caryopteris x clandonensis (Bluebeard), Lespedeza thunbergii (Bush Clover), Lagerstroemia (Crape Myrtle), Vitex (Chastetree), Abelia x grandiflora, Fall-Blooming Camellias (like ‘Winter’s Snowman’), some Illicium (a highly deer-resistant evergreen for shade, look for ‘Orion’), Mahonia x media (‘Winter Sun’, ‘Charity’, and ‘Arthur Menzies’ are common), some Daphne (Daphne x transatlantica blooms through November), Hibiscus syriaca (Rose of Sharon), Hamamelis virginiana (native witch hazel blooms fragrant yellow flowers)

A yellow-leafed selection of Bluebeard or Caryopteris x clandonensis "Aurea" — A yellow-leafed selection of Bluebeard (Caryopteris x clandonensis ‘Aurea’)

late season spent flowers of Hydrangea macrophylla — The fading flowers of Hydrangea macrophylla add moodiness to the garden

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora "Tardiva" and (front) Hydrangea "Annabelle" — Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tardiva’ with Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ in the foreground

PLANTS for FOLIAGE:

Fothergilla (bottlebrush), Itea virginica (sweetspire), Clethra (sweet pepperbush) Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia creeper), Rhus sp. (sumac), Hamamelis/Parrotia (witch hazel family), Grasses (Hakonechloa, Panicum, Schizachryium, Andropogon, Carex, Calamagrostis, Pennisetum, etc.), Ferns (Dryopteris, Athyrium, Osmunda, Onoclea, Polystichum, Dennstaedtia, etc.), Nyssa (tupelo), Acer (maples), Lindera benzoin (spicebush)

Viburnum dilatatum "Michael Dodge" and Virginia Creeper — Viburnum dilatatum ‘Michael Dodge’ and Virginia Creeper

Quaking Oat Grass Chasmanthium latifolium — Northern Sea Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium)

PLANTS for FRUIT:

Viburnum, Ilex (winterberry and hollies), Callicarpa (beautyberry), Roses, Crabapples

miniature Roses will continue flowering well past first frost — Tea roses will continue flowering well past first frost

Beauty Berry (Callicarpa dichotoma) — Japanese Beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma)

These lists are just a starting point and there are so many more wonderful plants to choose from. Fall is a great time to plant and many of the plants listed above are available for sale at the nursery, including many specialty plants.

Come explore the late bloomers and extend your garden’s bloom season today!

ANEMONE

August 28, 2026 Karen Logan

ANEMONE

WINDFLOWER

The common name windflower comes from the way the delicate, poppy-like blossoms sway gracefully in the breeze, a trait reflected in the Greek word anemos, meaning "wind." Ranging from native spring ephemerals to summer and autumn bloomers, anemones can offer a continuous display from spring through fall. Don't let their whimsical blooms fool you, many varieties are remarkably tough because they spread via underground rhizomes and can form robust colonies over time.

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JAPANESE ANEMONES

Japanese anemones add a magnificent splash of color to the autumn garden when most perennials are beginning to fade. They are exceptional garden extenders that spread happily when sited in moist soils and space to roam.

CARE:

Sunlight: Thrive best in partial shade and protection from harsh afternoon sun. They can tolerate full sun as long as the soil remains consistently moist.
Soil: Prefer rich, moisture-retentive soil. Water regularly during dry spells.
Bloom Time: Mid-summer to late fall.

LANDSCAPE USES:

Mixed borders, cottage gardens, coastal gardens, and naturalized areas.
Moonlight Gardens: White-blooming anemones stand out strikingly at twilight, catching the evening light to create a luminous, glowing effect.

Japanese Anemones We Carry at Vineyard Gardens

Most garden-variety Japanese anemones are hybrids (Eriocapitella × hybrida), varying in height up to 3 to 4 feet. While many popular selections feature single blossoms, we also offer double-flowered forms like 'Pamina'.

'Wild Swan': White blossoms featuring a distinctive bluish-violet band on the reverse of the sepals.
'Honorine Jobert': Classic white single flowers.
'September Charm': Silvery-pink single flowers.
'Robustissima': Vigorous grower with clear pink single flowers.
'Bressingham Glow': Deep, rich rose-pink flowers.
'Pamina': Deep rose-pink double flowers.

Flowering abundantly from mid-summer through late fall, Japanese anemones are a brilliant, elegant alternative to traditional autumn mums.

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NATIVE ANEMONES ON MARTHA’S VINEYARD

**Wood Anemone (Anemone quinquefolia)**

A native spring ephemeral. It blooms early before the overhead tree canopy leafs out, utilizing the spring sun before dying back to dormancy as shade takes over. It typically has 5 sepals (which function as petals) that linger longer than true petals and is why it’s scientific name is quinquefolia meaning five leafed.

**Tall Thimbleweed / Tall Windflower (Anemone virginiana)**

Thrives in partly shaded locations with moist to moderately dry soils. In early summer, it produces greenish-white sepals above dark green foliage. Following the bloom, it develops characteristic thimble-like seed heads that turn fluffy as they disperse in autumn.

**Canada Anemone (Anemone canadensis)**

Features long stems topped with white blossoms from May to June. While its foliage looks delicate, it is a very hardy plant that forms dense colonies in moderate to moist soils with partial to full sun.

An excellent choice for a deer deterrent border because most Anemones have a natural bitter compound that make it unpalatable to deer and rabbits.

***Wood Anemone (Anemone nemerosa ‘Vestal’***

FEATURED PROPERTY BY VINEYARD GARDENS LANDSCAPING

August 27, 2026 Karen Logan

A QUIET OASIS

VINEYARD GARDENS LANDSCAPING HARMONIOUSLY MERGES THIS CHILMARK PROPERTY INTO ITS NATIVE ECOSYSTEM

Situated down a dirt road in the woods of Chilmark, this property is surrounded by mature oaks, pines and flowering shrubs. The cultivated landscape meshes beautifully with the surrounding ecosystem. A path-like lawn winds it’s way around the house meandering past native and ornamental shrubs alike, a mixture of evergreen screening and a colorful annual garden. A beautiful container garden sits upon the back patio with the backdrop of large PG Hydrangeas and native Clethra. A stone pathway from the house leads to a patio nestled in the woods. This property sits on a few acres with wood chip paths lined with well placed rhododendrons, hydrangeas and native shrubs. The path meanders past a yoga area and a sitting area under a gorgeous oak tree.

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SHRUBS, TREES & PLANTS INCORPORATED INTO THIS LANDSCAPE

The screening is a mixture of big evergreens: Western Red Cedar (native), American Hollys (native) and Rhododendron maximum (native to eastern seaboard but not Martha’s Vineyard). Deciduous flowering shrubs are incorporated within the screening such as Viburnums (some native) and a mixture of hydrangeas (Oak Leaf (native), Blue Ball, Climbing and PG). To finish it off we intermixed many ferns and astilbe.

Big evergreens for screening: Western Red Cedars (native), American Hollys (native)

Viburnums in the screening (native), Oak Lead Hydrangea, Clethra (native)

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BEFORE & AFTER : TRAILS ON THE PROPERTY

JOE-PYE WEED

August 11, 2026 Karen Logan

JOE-PYE WEED

Eutrochium

by karen blackerby logan

A member of the Asteraceae (Aster) family, Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium) is a late-summer blooming native with vital ecological value. It serves as a primary late-season nectar source for pollinators, including monarchs, swallowtails, and native bees, while its seed heads provide key autumn and winter forage for songbirds. Beyond its ecological importance, Joe-Pye weed is a wonderful landscape plant, helping with erosion control, naturalizing rain gardens, woodland borders, pond shores, and native meadows.

Botanical Illustration through a Biomimicry Lens

In nature, every form follows a functional purpose. When you observe plant architecture closely, you begin to uncover universal evolutionary strategies.

For me, creating botanical illustrations is far more than capturing a likeness: it is an exercise in field observation. While drawing in the garden, I observe which species interact with the plant, feel its textures, smell its aromas, and attempt to deduce its defense mechanisms, structural adaptations, and reproductive strategies. It becomes a fascinating game of botany detective: analyzing the details using all my senses, and then diving into reliable research to see how accurate my hypotheses are.

Here is what I observed while illustrating and sitting with Joe-Pye weed in the garden, in combination with researching the botanical science behind its design.

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Observing Nature’s Design:

The Architecture, Strategies, and Ecology of Joe-Pye Weed

Architectural Height & Stem Resilience

Tall Structure (4–8+ feet): Growing tall allows Joe-Pye weed to have greater access to sunlight while surrounded by lower vegetation.
Pithed or Hollow Stems: The thick stems provide great structural integrity, resisting wind and rain without toppling over.
Purple Stems: The purple stems have anthocyanin pigment that acts as a sun shield protecting the plant from solar radiation and deterring herbivorous insects.

Leaf Structure and Shape

Whorled Leaf Pattern: Radiating out in whorls of 3 to 6 leaves per node, this arrangement prevents upper leaves from completely shading lower foliage, maximizing sunlight capture.
Serrated Margins: The finely jagged leaf edges help facilitate rapid transpiration, absorbing and releasing moisture to cool the plant during hot summer days.
Chemical Defenses: When crushed, the leaves emit a subtle, sweet vanilla scent, which serve as an effective chemical deterrent against browsing deer and rabbits.

Inflorescence & Pollination

Inflorescence: Arranged in broad, dome grouping, many tiny florets form a sturdy, accessible platform. This allows butterflies and bees to feed continuously while expending minimal energy.
Styles: The fuzzy, thread-like bristles on the flower heads are actually extended styles coated in pollen, guaranteeing that visiting insects will help with cross-pollination.
Nectar: The faint vanilla aroma and the high sugar concentration in the nectar rewards migrating butterflies and native bees in late summer.

Propagation & Soil Stabilization

Wind-Dispersed Seeds: The seeds, attached to delicate bristles operate much like dandelion seeds, floating in the breeze to their next destination. In winter, non-dispersed seeds become vital energy sources for songbirds.
Rhizomes: Below ground, Joe-Pye weed spreads via short, woody rhizomes. This forms dense, stable colonies that bind the soil, making it exceptional for controlling shoreline and wetland erosion.
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Martha’s Vineyard Native Joe-Pye Weed Species

Four Eutrochium species native to Martha’s Vineyard and the surrounding coastal plain ecosystem. While they look similar at first glance, key botanical details set them apart:

**Hollow Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum)**

It features hollow, smooth stems that are often purplish. It is the tallest of the Eutrochium, frequently exceeding 6.5 to 8 feet tall. Very common in damp, sunny areas, wet meadows, and roadside ditches.

**Purple Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)**

Stems are solid and green, with distinct purple pigmentation mainly on leaf nodes. Leaves release a noticeable vanilla fragrance when crushed. Prefers slightly cooler, partially shaded spots along woodland edges and clearings.

**Coastal Plain Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium dubium)**

Shorter and more compact (typically 3–5 feet), making it well-suited for home gardens. It has fewer individual florets per flower head (5–9 florets per head, compared to 9–22 in spotted Joe-Pye weed) and thicker, darker leaves. Well adapted to the sandy, acidic soil conditions and coastal damp habitats found throughout Martha's Vineyard, including pond shores and meadows.

**Spotted Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum)**

Identified by its stems that are heavily mottled with dark purple spots (some variations can occasionally feature hollow stems). It features flat-topped flower clusters rather than domed ones and has the widest geographic range of all the Joe-Pye species. Thrives in full sun to partial shade in medium-wet to saturated soils.

Garden Companion Plantings

To create a vibrant, ecologically rich native bed, pair Joe-Pye weed with these native island companions that share similar sun and moisture requirements:

Blue Flag Iris (Iris versicolor)
New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)
Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
Flat-Topped White Aster (Doellingeria umbellata)
Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea)
Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum)

By welcoming Joe-Pye weed into our gardens, we don't just add height and late-season color, we give our island's pollinators a vital lifeline when they need it most.

SEDUMS

August 5, 2026 Karen Logan

SEDUMS

Late-Summer Stars of the Garden

When late summer arrives and other perennials begin to fade, sedums, commonly known as stonecrops, standout. Belonging to the family Crassulaceae, this diverse genus contains hundreds of species prized for their thick, succulent foliage and exceptional drought tolerance. Hardy, reliable, and effortless to grow, sedums thrive in full sun and well draining soil. While they perform best with plenty of sunlight, many groundcover varieties tolerate light afternoon shade. In addition to their rugged nature, sedum blooms are an invaluable late-season nectar source, drawing native bees, butterflies, and beneficial pollinators to the garden.

Sedums are terrific low maintenance plants which really stand out in late summer to fall.

Sedums grown at our on site production location

SEDUM PLANT TYPES

To help choose the right plant for your landscape, sedums are grouped by their growth habits.

Creeping & Rock Garden Sedum: Low growing groundcovers that form dense, weed-suppressing carpets up to 3 feet wide. Many feature small, tight rosettes that mimic tiny floral buds that are actually foliage.
Tall/Upright Border Sedum: Mounding, shrub-like perennials reaching 1.5 to 3 feet tall. These feature stout stems and broad, flat flower heads that hold their structure well into winter.
Trailing Sedum: Varieties with cascading stems perfect for spilling over stone retaining walls, hanging baskets, or patio containers.

SEDUMS AT VINEYARD GARDENS

We stock a wide selection of creeping, mid-sized, and upright sedums for all areas of your garden.

Low-Growing & Spreading Varieties

Sedum rupestris “Angelina”: A rock garden spreader with needle-like yellow foliage that turns a warm copper-orange in autumn, topped with bright yellow summer flowers.
Sedum reflexum “Blue Spruce”: Cool blue-gray foliage resembling tiny evergreen branches; ideal for rock gardens and edging paths.
Sedum “Steel the Show”: A dense groundcover with striking blue-green foliage, perfect ground cover for a sunny garden.
Sedum dasphyllum “Major”: A delicate-looking creeping variety with tiny, rounded leaves that resemble soft blue flowers.

Mid-Sized & SunSparkler® Series

Sedum Sunsparkler Series: A popular series of compact, medium sized sedums (8–18 inches tall) with a range of foliage color and disease resistance.
Some available cultivars are 'Dazzleberry', 'Plum Dazzled', 'Cherry Tart', 'Lime Zinger', 'Firecracker', and 'Blue Elf'.

Upright Varieties

Sedum ‘Munstead Dark Red’: An upright selection growing 15–18 inches tall with deep green foliage and dark ruby-red flower clusters.
Sedum ‘Mojave Jewels Saphire’: Featuring rich plum-purple stems and foliage topped with contrasting rose-pink blooms.
Sedum ‘Night Light’: Growing 22–26 inches tall with an expansive spread and features soft yellow flowers that mature into warm goldish seed heads.
Sedum blooms attract pollinators. Birds, butterflies and many insects love them!

Flowering yellow sedum with Butterfly Bush and Hydrangea paniculata

PLANTING & CARE TIPS

Soil: Plant in well-drained soil. Heavy clay should be amended with coarse sand to prevent root rot during wet winter months.
Watering: Water deeply after planting to establish the root system. Once established, sedums require minimal supplemental watering.
Winter Interest: Leave the dried flower heads on upright varieties over winter; they add structural architecture to snowy beds and provide seed heads for foraging birds.

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AUTUMN CLIMBERS

August 3, 2026 Karen Logan

AUTUMN CLIMBERS

THE LATE SEASON VERTICAL GARDEN

As summer annuals fade, late-season blooming vines step up to bring dramatic color, texture, and ecological value to the autumn landscape. Vertical gardening maximizes limited footprints, creating living walls that cool the surrounding air, absorb carbon dioxide, and provide crucial late-season food and shelter for birds, butterflies, and native pollinators. Even in small spaces, potted vines weaving up porch railings bring vital energy to underutilized structures.

Here are four vines to elevate your autumn garden.

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HONEYSUCKLE

Trumpet Honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens), an eastern native vine produces rich clusters of tubular, bright coral-red flowers with yellow interiors. While it begins it’s blooms in late spring, it reliably reblooms throughout late summer and into autumn. The tubular flowers are a primary nectar source for hummingbirds and native bees, while fall berries feed songbirds. Goldflame honeysuckle (Lonicera × heckrottii 'Goldflame') are closely related and share a similar vining habit.

Cultivation: Extremely adaptable, it thrives in full sun to partial shade, though full sun yields the most blooms. Unlike invasive exotic honeysuckles, it is non-invasive and performs exceptionally well in large containers alongside a patio trellis.

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WISTERIA

For gardeners who love the dramatic look of cascading purple blooms American Wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) is the ideal native (to North America). Producing compact, grape-like clusters of fragrant lavender-blue flowers, American Wisteria blooms in early summer and frequently produces repeat blooms into early autumn.

Pruning: This woody vine requires a sturdy, heavy-duty arbor or metal trellis for support. Because American Wisteria sets flower buds on new wood (the current season's growth), pruning in late winter or early spring encourages vigorous new stems and abundant flower clusters.

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CLEMATIS VITICELLA HYBRIDS

Small-flowered Clematis viticella cultivars and hybrids, such as the fragrant bell-shaped 'Betty Corning' or the deep indigo 'Rooguchi', are prized for their disease resistance and exceptional late-season blooms. These vines climb by wrapping delicate leaf petioles around trellis wire or neighboring shrubs, making them excellent companions for growing up and through late-blooming shrubs.

Spring Pruning: Most late-blooming clematis require hard pruning. Cutting the stems back in early spring, to about 12–18 inches above the soil, stimulates a flush of fresh new stems from the crown, resulting in a denser plant with far more flowers in autumn.

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**VIRGIN’S BOWER (Clematis virginiana)**

A tough, fast-growing vine native to eastern North America, Virgin's Bower lights up the late-summer and early-autumn garden with swaths of sweet-smelling white blooms. Blooming from late August through September, its small, four-petaled white flowers attract a wide array of native bees, beneficial wasps, and syrphid flies. In late autumn, female plants form silvery, feathery seed heads and persist into winter, providing nesting material and winter interest.

Cultivation: Like most clematis species, it prefers roots in the shade flowers in the sun. Keep the root area cool and moist with organic mulch or companion plantings, while allowing the climbing vines to reach full sun for maximum blooms.
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Whether trained over a pergola, woven along a porch railing, or spilling over a large patio container, late-blooming vines turn vertical spaces into dynamic, living tapestries that keep your garden vibrant and full of life long after summer fades.

AUGUST GARDEN TIPS

August 1, 2026 Karen Logan

(L to R) Coreopsis, Rudbeckia, Agastache & Allium

AUGUST

GARDEN TIPS

Late summer brings a distinct shift to the garden. While some mid-season bloomers begin to fade, many late-blooming perennials and shrubs are just reaching their peak. Here’s how to keep your landscape thriving through late summer and into autumn.

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Annuals & Containers

Trim back leggy annuals and remove spent flowers to stimulate fresh growth and continuous flower buds.
Every 10-14 days dd a diluted liquid fertilizer when watering to encourage continued blooms.

Trees, Shrubs & Perennials

Hold off on fertilizing established trees and shrubs starting in August. Late-season nitrogen pushes tender new growth that won't have time to harden off before early autumn frosts, resulting in tip dieback, damaged vascular tissue, and entry points for pathogens.
Stake tall perennials like dahlias, goldenrod, and late sunflowers that may be top-heavy or leaning after summer rainstorms.
Cut back spent perennial blooms to clean up plant silhouettes. Certain species (like salvia, catmint, and coreopsis) may reward you with a second flush of flowers before frost.

Vegetable Gardens

Pick warm-weather crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and summer squash frequently. Consistent harvesting prevents plants from going to seed and encourages continuous yield.
Now’s the time to sow cool-season crops: lettuce, spinach, arugula, carrots, beets, beans, kale, and peas for fall harvest. Direct-seed greens like spinach, arugula, lettuce, and kale, along with root crops like beets, radishes, and carrots. Fast-maturing bush beans and snow peas can also be sown early in the month.

Weed & Pest Vigilance

Summer heat speeds up seed production for opportunistic weeds like crabgrass and wild blackberry. Pull them before they drop seed into the soil for next spring.
Leave late-blooming native perennials (such as coneflowers, asters, joe-pye weed, and goldenrod) intact as vital nectar sources for bees, butterflies, and migrating monarchs.

Enjoy the buzz of late-summer pollinators darting from bloom to bloom, it’s one of the season’s sweetest rewards!

native summer blooming shrubs

AGASTACHE

July 27, 2026 Karen Logan

AGASTACHE

foeniculum

Anise Hyssop / Hummingbird Mint

If you are looking for an edible, long-blooming perennial and is fantastic for pollinators, Agastache deserves a spot in your sunny garden beds. Its nectar-rich, tubular flower spikes are irresistible to bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. As a member of the mint family, its fragrant foliage offers an aromatic licorice-mint scent that naturally repels deer.

Agastache foeniculum & Hybrids

These robust varieties reliably return year after year on the Vineyard. They feature lavender-blue flower spikes from midsummer through fall and reseed gently in sunny spots.

Black Adder: An outstanding hybrid cross (A. foeniculum x A. rugosa) featuring deep smoky-violet buds that open to soft lavender-blue flowers.
Blue Fortune: A hybrid celebrated for its dense, 3-foot powder-blue flower spikes and exceptional humidity tolerance.
Golden Jubilee: Striking chartreuse-to-yellow foliage paired with dense blue-purple flower spikes.
Little Adder: A compact, dwarf version of 'Black Adder' that offers the same rich blue blooms on a shorter, mounded frame.

Growing Conditions

Sun: Thrives best in full sun.
Soil: Prefers dry-to-medium, well-draining soil.
Watering: Highly drought-tolerant once established. Avoid poorly drained or flooded areas, as wet winter soil causes root rot.

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Agastache (left corner) infront of the herb garden

‘Tender’ Agastache

Treated as Annuals

There are many other Agastache species and hybrids we carry. While nursery catalogs often list many hybrid Agastache as Zone 5 hardy, our Vineyard winter freeze-thaw cycles, combined with damp winter soil, make them tricky to perennialize. In a true Zone 5, the ground freezes and stays frozen, protecting the crowns. Therefore, we treat these varieties as long-season annuals. They bloom non-stop from early summer right up until a hard killing frost, often around Thanksgiving, filling the autumn garden with vibrant color.

Featured Varieties We Carry:

Agastache aurantiaca ‘Apricot Sprite’: We grow these from seed and are a great season extender. It is the perfect orange color for fall.
Kudos™ Series: Compact hybrids available in rich shades including Mandarin, Ambrosia, Coral, Gold and Silver Blue. Plant these in the summer for a long fall season of color. Their minty foliage is not eaten by deer.
‘Rosie Posey’ & ‘Peachie Keen’: These are shorter, more mounded plants with two-tone rose-pink and peach blooms. They want a sunny location and are drought tolerant once established. Easy to grow.
‘Mango Tango’: Vibrant magenta-pink buds that open to soft mango-orange flowers.

“Combine them with other season extenders like salvias and chrysanthemums. Plant them with late season asters, perennial sunflowers and rudbeckia for and unforgettable autumn display.” - Chris Wiley, owner

Agastache Apricot Sprite

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Design Ideas

for Your Garden

Agastache is a versatile perennial, with many uses in the coastal landscape.

Rock Gardens: Pair compact varieties with creeping succulents, thyme, stonecrop (Sedum), dianthus, ice plant (Delosperma), and blue fescue (Festuca glauca).
Hellstrips & Curbsides: Plant along hot driveways or street borders with other low-water favorites like lavender, catmint, yarrow, beardtongue (Penstemon), and fountain grass (Pennisetum).
Patio Containers: Pot a dwarf Agastache in a decorative planter alongside lantana, gazania, or Osteospermum.
Pollinator Meadows: Naturalize in a sunny meadow alongside native black-eyed Susans, Liatris, purple coneflower (Echinacea), milkweed, and native asters.
Herb Gardens: Blend Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) into culinary gardens next to oregano, marjoram, sage, rosemary, thyme, and lavender.
Slopes & Banks: Mass along sunny hillsides, alternating groups of other drought tolerant plants like lavender, Russian sage (Perovskia) and tickseed (Coreopsis).
Late-Season Border: Pair with goldenrod, Joe Pye weed, maiden grass (Miscanthus), and little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) for a stunning prairie-style fall border.

NATIVE SUMMER BLOOMING SHRUBS

GROW NATIVE MASSACHUSETTS

SUMMER PLANTED COOL WEATHER CROPS

July 27, 2026 Karen Logan

Cool-Weather

Crops for Fall

The peak days of summer are here, and for Martha’s Vineyard gardeners that marks the time to start a new round of cool weather crops. Because we’re surrounded by water, our island enjoys a uniquely extended growing season. While we often get a few light frosts in October, we rarely see a true hard frost until November. This long, beautiful autumn gives us the perfect window to plant right now for a robust, late-season harvest.

Lettuces

Mixed Mesclun Greens

Red Leaf Lettuce

Tat soi (miniature Chinese cabbage-like)

Spicy Micro Greens

Arugula Astro

Zonal Scented Geranium

Lavender hidcote

Sage tricolor

Thyme Lemon

Thyme Woolly

Mesculin Mix Asian Salad Greens

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Vegetables & Greens Available

We’ve already started our first rounds of seedlings. Stop by to grab yours and get planting today!

Salad Greens & Cooking Greens

Lettuce & Arugula: Our first batches are up! We’ll continue seeding fresh lettuce every few weeks into autumn, shifting toward hardier winter lettuce varieties as the season cools down.
Spinach: Freshly germinated and ready to grow.
Hardy Favorites: Kale, Oakleaf Lettuce, and Red Swiss Chard.
Asian Greens: Tender Pac Choy and Bok Choy.
Brassicas: Broccoli and Cauliflower

Fresh Herbs

Give your fall kitchen garden a refresh with these culinary and aromatic herbs:

Thyme (Lemon & White 'Albiflorus')
Sage & Chives
Greek Oregano & French Tarragon
Lavender, Rosemary & Germander
Scented Geraniums & Alpine Strawberries

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DESCRIPTION OF THE GREENS WE ARE GROWING FROM FEDCO SEED

Broccoli Waltham 29: "We’ve found a reliable strain that consistently produces 6" heads with medium beads on attractive stocky 20" plants."
Arugula Ice bread: "This is arugula with more bite, vigorous with complex full flavors."
Kale Dazzling Blue Dinosaur: "Vigorous 24–34" upright savoyed lacinato-leaved kale in a range of bluish-green shades and all with a dramatic pink mid-rib. Sure to attract attention of chefs, market growers and gardeners alike."
Swiss chard Red rhubarb: "Deep crimson stalks, dark green leaves. Very hardy. Beautiful for edible landscapes. Heirloom from Europe goes back to 1857"
Lettuce red sails: "An attractive large plant with purplish red-splashed rosettes serrated with bubbled frills, Red Sails delivers lightly crunchy lobes with good melting texture. "
Lettuce New red Fire: "Has Red Sails’ characteristic ruffled leaves, though slightly lighter coloration, and good size. Has been among the last to bolt, lasting as late as July 29. Also quite cold-hardy. Tender sweet flavor with almost no bitterness."
Lettuce Black Seeded Simpson: "The earliest and most popular looseleaf variety."
Spinach Tundra: "Tastefully crinkled oval leaves are held off the ground for easy baby-leaf and mature harvests."
Buttercrunch: “Dark green outer leaves with broad mid-ribs and a creamy white center heart. Slow to bolt. Excellent flavor.”
Blue Scotch Kale: “Dense frilly finely curled blue-green leaves on compact upright 12–16" plants stand well, maintain color and resist yellowing in cold and heat. Hardy and productive. Best as a fall crop, planted in July or early August. More variable than the hybrids. Cold-hardy.”
Bok Choy Prize Choy: “Open-pollinated. Classy pac choi with celery-like white stems and vase-shaped 15-18" tall heads. Succulent stems and tender greens.”
[*Descriptions cited from Fedco Seed Catalog]
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SMALL FRUITS

Add long-term perennial value to your garden patch. The following varieties are in stock and ready to plant:

Blueberries: Patriot, Bluecrop, Chippewa, Chandler, Reka & Darrow
Raspberries: Killarney & Caroline
Blackberries: Natchez
Elderberries: Samdal & Samyl

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WARM WEATHER

CROPS

Still looking for summer flavor?
We also have warm weather crops like tomatoes, eggplant & peppers available for immediate and late summer harvest!

Visit us this week to pick up your seeds, starts, and fall planting supplies!

SUMMER CROPS FOR FALL HARVESTS

POETIC GARDENS

July 20, 2026 Karen Logan

Andew Wiley, working on Vineyard Gardens display bed

A PASSION

FOR PLANTS

Vineyard Garden’s Andrew Wiley, a creative plant ‘genus’

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It’s not just a job for Andrew Wiley, his passion for plants is infused in his bloodline. As a child he grew up at Vineyard Gardens, watching his horticulturalist parents, Chris and Chuck Wiley develop a singular greenhouse and lawn mowing business into the vibrant establishment it is today. Not only did Andrew soak in the atmosphere and information as a boy, he now embraces everything about plants, landscaping and design. After an unmatched year at Great Dixter House & Gardens, Andrew’s plant knowledge and creativity in the landscaping world has been unleashed. His ethereal and poetic gardens are a wonderful demonstration in succession planting, filling garden beds with continuous blooms throughout the year. His front bed display at Vineyard Gardens is constantly evolving, never a dull moment from one plant finishing it’s bloom cycle to a new one opening up. Within the display bed there are many beautiful vignettes that seamless work together as a whole.

Next time you are at Vineyard Gardens take a meditative walk along the display garden and you will notice something new, fresh and exciting each time.

“This photo is reminiscent of my time in England at Great Dixter All three of these plants can be found in the garden there. This Phlox was originally a seedling given to Christopher Lloyd by Margery Fish and is known at Dixter as Phlox paniculata ‘Margery Fish.’ Piet Oudolf decided to name the phlox ‘Dixter’ as it was never given a trademark name, something Great Dixter does not do with their plants for various reasons. The Salvia is one of my favorite biennials, best practice is to always plant all biennials in the fall. This will always give you bigger and better plants with much longer bloom time than if planted in Spring. The Marigold (Tagetes) was used on the Long Border at Dixter where Fergus received the seeds from a conference in France. I collected and brought back seeds from these plants. A true scrambler this Marigold gets huge and is best planted where it can tumble over and sprawl around.” Andrew Wiley

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July’s Display Bed

Take a virtual walk to learn about Vineyard Gardens’ July display bed.

Have you ever had the chance to walk through a garden with Andrew? His energy and excitement for designing with plants is unmeasured. Spewing off latin names and talking about the evolution of gardens and biodiversity you feel like you just had a master class in horticulture. Andrew’s contagious spirit will have you walking away from Vineyard Gardens with a million plants because he made you fall in love with every single one of them!

SUCCESSION GARDENING

ECHINACEA

July 20, 2026 Karen Logan

ECHINACEA

CONEFLOWER

Echinacea comes from the Greek word echinos meaning hedgehog or sea-urchin in reference to the spiny central cone.

A Closer Look at Echinacea

Beauty, Biodiversity, and What to Plant

Walk through any summer garden center and it’s hard to miss the bright, joyful flowers of Echinacea, from the vibrant magenta to fiery oranges to soft whites. Beyond their colorful appeal, coneflowers are adaptable and are pollinator magnets.

Native Coneflowers

At our nursery, we grow several species of North American Native Echinacea from seed, including:

Echinacea purpurea: classic purple coneflower
Echinacea pallida: pale, drooping petals
Echinacea paradoxa: a rare yellow species

Starting plants from seed introduces new genetic combinations, which increases the plant’s ability to adapt to changing conditions and resist disease. These North American natives offer long-term benefits to pollinators, wildlife, and the resilience of the garden itself. Native color palettes are more limited, primarily pinks and yellows, but their ecological value is profound. They are long-lived, drought-tolerant (once established), and deeply rooted in local ecosystems.

Hybrid Coneflowers

Coneflower cultivars are mostly derived from Echinacea purpurea and have been carefully bred for color, size, and form. At the nursery you can find Echinacea in shades of:

Reds (Salsa Red)
Oranges (Adobe Orange)
Greens (Green Twister)
Whites (White Swan)

We sell countless hybrids that the horticultural industry has created from mostly Echinacea purpurea. Hybrids are typically propagated asexually through cuttings or tissue culture to maintain consistency in appearance. This can make them less genetically diverse, and potentially less adaptable, especially under stress from disease or climate extremes. When carefully sited and well-maintained, they’re a stunning and reliable part of any garden design.

Coneflowers come in a rainbow of colors!

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ECHINACEA AVAILABLE AT VINEYARD GARDENS

*If food for pollinators is your number one reason for planting Echinacea, either plant the native species. The doubles are not believed to be good food for pollinators. Many of the doubles are sterile and produce no seed.

USES

Pollinator Magnet: Coneflowers attract a wide variety of butterflies, bees, birds, and other beneficial pollinators, making them a valuable addition to any ecological garden.
Winter Interest & Wildlife Support: Leave the spent flower heads standing through winter. Their seed-filled cones provide an important food source for birds, especially finches. In early spring, simply cut the stems back to the ground to encourage fresh growth.
Medicinal Tradition: Long used in herbal medicine, Echinacea is believed to support the immune system and may help reduce the duration of colds and flu. Their distinctive blooms are often associated with healing and wellness in both gardens and apothecaries.

GROWING CONDITIONS

A hardy herbaceous perennial, Echinacea is native to the Midwestern prairies of the United States and thrives in a wide range of conditions.

Adaptable and resilient, it tolerates drought, heat, humidity, and even poor soils once established.
Best grown in full sun with average to dry, well-drained soil, it doesn’t need rich soil to flourish.
Coneflowers are low-maintenance and rarely troubled by pests or disease. They require little to no fertilizer.
Expect a vibrant display of blooms in mid-summer, with some varieties continuing into fall.

An excellent, long-blooming flower for massing in the border, meadow, native plant garden, naturalized area or wildflower garden. Often massed with black-eyed Susans.

NATIVE SUMMER BLOOMING SHRUBS

PERENNIALS FOR SHADE

July 15, 2026 Karen Logan

Brightening the Shady Garden with Summer Perennials

Many gardeners feel limited by a lack of sunlight, but a shady yard is an incredible opportunity to play with dramatic textures, architectural foliage, and soft summer colors. If your garden is currently too dark, you don't necessarily need to cut down your beautiful trees, simply "limbing up" lower branches or thinning out a dense canopy can let in the perfect amount of dappled light. Conversely, if you have a full sun bed and want to grow some of these shade-loving gems, planting a few small understory trees or large shrubs will add instant height, visual interest, and the necessary canopy.

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Plants that evolved in the forest understory often sport larger leaves to capture every bit of available sunlight (think Hostas, Rodgersias, Astilbes, and Heuchera). Most shade perennials will actually thrive with a bit more sun, provided they get enough water. The reverse, however, is not true: sun-loving plants placed in the deep shade will quickly grow weak, long, and leggy. For the best results, give your shade plants a rich, moist, but well-drained soil.

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Hosta

Sanguisorba ‘Lilac Squirrel’

Astilbe

Alchemilla, Lady's Mantle

Astilbe Pumila

Anenome

Clematis Boulevard Acropolis

Clematis Sweet Autumn

Ferns

Athyrium Brilliance

Osmunda regalis

Filipendula Kahome

Geranium Max Frei

Geranium Rozanne

Heuchera Dolce Cherry Truffles

Heuchera Berry Smoothie

Heuchera Primo Wild Rose

Heuchera Snow Angel

Hosta Frech Fries

Thalictrum Black Stockings

Thalictrum flavum glaucum

Euphorbia

Foamflower

DEER RESISTANT PERENNIALS FOR SHADE

If deer are a constant pressure on your property, you can still achieve a lush, flowering oasis. These summer-blooming varieties are rarely bothered by wildlife:

Astilbes: Add vibrant pops of color to darker corners with their feather-like plumes, available in a range of sizes and shades.

Heucheras (Coral Bells): While they bloom beautifully for 3–4 weeks in midsummer, they are primarily grown for their foliage. From deep bronzes and dramatic purples to bright lime greens and reds, their color stands out all season.
Everblooming Bleeding Hearts (Dicentra): Unlike their traditional cousin (Dicentra spectabilis), which blooms only in spring and goes completely dormant in summer heat, the everblooming varieties will flower continuously from early summer straight into late summer while gently spreading.
Ferns, Rodgersia, & Thalictrum (Meadow Rue): Outstanding selections that offer structural foliage deer naturally avoid.

PERENNIALS GROUNDCOVERS FOR SHADE

Why spend money on bark mulch every year when you can carpet the bare ground with beautiful living plants? These options thrive and spread efficiently in partial to full shade:

Pachysandra: The ultimate groundcover for deep, dry shade where little else will grow.
Asarum (Wild Ginger), & Epimedium (Barrenwort): Excellent, low-maintenance choices to create a dense green carpet under trees.
Perennial Geraniums (Cranesbill): Incredibly tough and reliable. 'Rozanne' is our top-selling variety for its nonstop violet-blue blooms. We also highly recommend 'Album' (pure white flowers) and 'Karmina' (pink flowers with spectacular, rich autumn foliage).
Bellflowers (Campanula): Campanulas are fantastic choices for partial shade. Depending on your garden's specific architecture, we carry a wide variety of habits.

Our Go-To Shade Favorites

When you stop by the nursery, ask us about any of these favorites, we’ll help you find the perfect match for your garden's unique conditions.

Alchemilla (Lady's Mantle)
Epimedium (Barrenwort)
Ligularia
Anemone (Windflower)
Euphorbia (Spurge)
Pachysandra
Asarum (Wild Ginger)
Ferns (All Varieties)
Polygonatum (Solomon's Seal)
Astilbe
Foxglove (Digitalis)
Rodgersia
Cimicifuga (Bugbane)
Galium (Sweet Woodruff)
Sanguisorba (Burnet)
Clematis (Select Varieties)
Geranium (Cranesbill)
Thalictrum (Meadow Rue)
Dicentra (Bleeding Heart)
Hakonechloa (Forest Grass)

SHADE LOVER: ASTILBE

POLLINATOR MONTH: NATIONAL WILDLIFE FEDERATION

SHADE LOVER: HEUCHERA

NATIVE SUMMER BLOOMING SHRUBS

July 13, 2026 Karen Logan

NATIVE SUMMER

BLOOMING SHRUBS

Shrubs are often considered the bones of the landscape: providing structure, year-round beauty, and crucial ecological support. Native summer-blooming shrubs go a step further, they offer immeasurable benefits for pollinators, birds, and other wildlife during a season when gardens are in full swing. From early summer blooms to fall berries, these shrubs extend the growing season and support biodiversity. As entomologist and author Doug Tallamy explains in Nature’s Best Hope and Bringing Nature Home, keystone plants are “native plants that are essential to our ecosystems because they support 90% of the caterpillar species that enable our terrestrial birds to reproduce, as well as all of our specialist native bee species.”

Three standout native shrubs that thrive on Martha’s Vineyard:

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Cephalanthus

occidentalis

BUTTONBUSH

If your landscape includes wetlands, soggy areas, or you’re planning a rain garden, buttonbush is an ideal choice. Native to wetland edges and streambanks, this fast-growing shrub thrives in consistently moist or standing water and can handle heavy clay soil.

In summer, they bloom abundantly with fuzzy ball shaped flowers. These fragrant blossoms attract hummingbirds, bees, butterflies, such as tiger swallowtails and nearly two dozen species of butterfly and moth larvae. In fall, bright red seed heads feed songbirds, small mammals, and even waterfowl.

USES:

Rain gardens
Retention ponds
Erosion control

Its fast-growing root system helps with water quality near marshes, streams or wetlands. Since it can grow in water it is a favorite for wetland conservation.

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Hydrangea

arborescens

SMOOTH HYDRANGEA

Our native hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens, is more than just beautiful, it’s an important host plant for the hydrangea sphinx moth and a magnet for butterflies, pollinators, and birds. Found naturally on wooded slopes and streambanks in the eastern United States, Hydrangea arborescens prefers partial shade and blooms on new wood, meaning it can be pruned close to the ground in late winter.

Several cultivars produce large, ball-shaped flower clusters. This low growing hydrangea fits nicely beneath taller trees and shrubs, or as part of a layered garden design.

Uses:

Mass plantings
Woodland and shade gardens
Pollinator and rain gardens
Sloped or naturalized areas

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Clethra alnifolia

SWEET PEPPERBUSH

Clethra is a wonderful addition to any garden. A versatile shrub that can thrive in most conditions. Typically found in open woodlands or swamps along the Atlantic coast this workhorse can flower from full sun to shade. Clethra prefers moist soil but can even adjust to dry, compact soil.

Fragrant white flower spikes appear mid-to-late summer, drawing in bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. In addition, to being a hardy shrub, Clethra has year round interest. In fall, its deep green leaves turn golden yellow, and in winter, dried seed pods add texture and interest.

Uses:

Seaside or woodland gardens
Mass plantings or hedges
Rain gardens
Pollinator-focused landscapes

Why Native Shrubs Matter

Planting native shrubs helps create sustainable, resilient landscapes. They support local wildlife, improve soil health, and require less water and maintenance once established. Whether you're restoring a coastal property or refreshing a backyard garden, native shrubs offer beauty with a purpose.

Mix early bloomers with summer and fall bloomers to ensure continuous habitat and visual interest throughout the growing season.

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HIBISCUS

July 13, 2026 Karen Logan

Rose of Sharon illustration by karen blackerby logan

Bold & Tropical

HIBISCUS

Nothing brings a dramatic, bold energy to the landscape quite like the stunning, dinner-plate blooms of the Hibiscus.

With over 100 species in the Malvaceae (Mallow) family, these plants are known for their vibrant color and tropical flair. Because of their warm-climate origins, they are often some of the last perennials to emerge, but they reward us with a spectacular show of blooms from mid to late summer.

We grow and carry three distinct types of hibiscus: Annual/Tropical, Perennial/Hardy, and Shrubs, along with other popular ornamental cousins in the Malva family, like Hollyhocks (Alcea) and Sidalcea.

*Jazzy Jewel Ruby Hibiscus (Tropical Hibiscus)*

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Hardy Hibiscus

Hardy Hibiscus includes species native to North America, most notably Hibiscus moscheutos (commonly known as Rose Mallow or Swamp Mallow).This incredible species is actually native to Martha’s Vineyard! You can spot its beautiful wild pink flowers blooming profusely late in the season around the coastal ponds along the south shore. Unlike woody shrubs, Hardy Hibiscus are true perennials that die completely back to the ground in the winter and emerge fresh from the crown each spring. At Vineyard Gardens, we sell the species, as well as many hybrids with a wide range of flower colors (pink, purple, white, red & bi-color), large flower sizes and green to deep dark foliage.

CARE OF HARDY HIBISCUS

Plant in full sun.
They require frequent, deep watering, especially when young. Drench the plant thoroughly.
Apply a generous layer of mulch around the base to retain vital root moisture and provide extra winter insulation.
Since they freeze back completely, cut old dead stems down to the ground in late winter or early spring. They bloom on new wood (this year's growth).
To encourage a secondary flush of flowers, deadhead spent blooms before they form seed heads, or prune the plant back by one-third after a heavy flush.
Mature clumps should only be divided in the spring, never in the fall.

VARITIES AVAILABLE AT THE NURSERY:

Hybrids: Kopper King, Perfect Storm, Berry Awesome, Holy Grail, Candy Crush, Midnight Marvel, Dark Mystery, Marshmallow Moon
Luna Series: Luna Red, Luna White
Disco Bell Series: Disco Bell Pink

Hibiscus 'Berry Awesome' [Photo credit: Walter’s Garden]

Hibiscus 'Candy Crush' [Photo credit: Walter’s Garden]

Hibiscus 'Dark Mystery' [Photo credit: Walter’s Garden]

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Shrub Hibiscus

The most popular woody shrub is the Rose of Sharon, also known as Hibiscus Syriacus. Unlike its perennial cousins, Rose of Sharon maintains a permanent woody structure year-round, growing into a substantial ornamental shrub or small tree that can reach up to 15 feet tall. In mid to late summer, it has beautiful hibiscus like flowers, when few other flowering shrubs are peeking and is valued as an ornamental in landscapes.

CARE OF ROSE OF SHARON

Thrives in full sun. Like the hardy varieties, it is a bit late to leaf out in the spring because of its tropical roots.
It blooms on new summer growth, so prune it in early spring just as the buds start to swell. Rose of Sharon naturally grows from its tips and can become leggy or bare at the bottom if left alone. To keep it lush and full down low, prune out a few of the oldest, largest stems as close to the ground as possible to encourage fresh, leafy growth from the base.
Fertilize new plantings with a complete, slow-release fertilizer in the spring.

VARITIES AVAILABLE AT THE NURSERY:

Single Flower Varieties: Diana, Aphrodite, Fiji, Red Heart, Minerva, Blue Satin
Double Flower Varieties: Chiffon Blue, Chiffon Lavender, Chiffon Pink

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Tropical Hibiscus

Our annual selections feature Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, a stunning shrub native to Southeast Asia. While it shares a similar appearance to our hardy varieties, the Tropical Hibiscus cannot tolerate frost. This plant blooms vibrant flowers continuously from late spring until the first cold snap. They make lovely centerpieces for patio containers and garden beds. We carry these in both multi-stemmed shrub forms and as elegant, trained topiary patio trees.

CARE OF TROPICAL HIBISCUS

They prefer rich, well-draining soil packed with organic matter, maintaining a neutral to slightly acidic pH.
Give them full sun. While they will survive in partial shade, their flower production will drop significantly.
To avoid breakage of the long stems, plant hibiscus where they won’t be exposed to strong winds.

VARITIES AVAILABLE AT THE NURSERY:

Classic Favorites: The Path, Cherie, Hula Girl, Red Dragon
Jazzy Jewel® Series: Jazzy Jewel Opal, Jazzy Jewel Ruby, Jazzy Jewel Amber, Jazzy Jewel Gold

Hibiscus illustration karen blackerby logan

MARSH MALLOWS: MV TIMES

NATIVE SUMMER BLOOMING SHRUBS

FILIPENDULA

July 6, 2026 Karen Logan

FILIPENDULA

Meadowsweet / Queen of the Prairie

If you are looking for a perennial that delivers sensational structure, lush foliage, and cloud-like summer blooms all at once, Filipendula is your plant. Valued equally for its deeply lobed leaves and its astilbe-like flower panicles, Filipendula is an absolute must have in the summer garden.

Growing Conditions

Most Filipendula varieties thrive in average, medium-to-wet, well-drained soil and prefer a spot in full sun to part shade. They are particularly exceptional for those troublesome damp areas of the yard where other perennials struggle with wet feet.

A highlight of midsummer!

Filipendula ‘Kahome’ (front) & Filipendula ‘Queen of the Prarie’ (back)

FILIPENDULA VARIETIES

Depending on your landscape, Filipendula offers two completely different scales to design with.

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Filipendula rubra ‘Venusta Magnifica’ (Queen of the Prairie)

This is a bold, architectural plant designed to make a massive statement. In early to mid-summer, it erupts with wide, dramatic panicles of tiny, fragrant, pale pink flowers.

Height: Grows up to 6–8 feet tall (though often slightly shorter in average garden soils).
Bloom Time: June to August.
Sun/Soil: Full sun to part shade; medium to wet soil. While it is native to consistently moist soils, it is incredibly resilient and will still perform well in average garden soils.
Best Garden Uses: Perfect for the rear of perennial borders, cottage gardens, native plant restoration areas, wet meadows, naturalized along the moist banks of streams and ponds, rain gardens or massing.
Native Region of Species plant: Northeastern Highlands of US / Not Ecotypic in New England

Queen of the Prairie is spectacular when planted in large masses. Because of its height, it serves as the perfect living backdrop for mid-sized summer perennials.

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Filipendula ‘Kahome’ (Dwarf Meadowsweet)

If you love the look of Queen of the Prairie but have a smaller garden space, 'Kahome' is your perfect match. This upright, clump-forming dwarf perennial offers the exact same fluffy charm on a miniature scale.

Height: A compact 8–12 inches tall.
Bloom Time: June to July.
Sun/Soil: Full sun to part shade; medium to wet soil.
Best Garden Uses: Front of the border accents, small cottage gardens, and damp rock gardens. Its dwarf size makes it a fantastic choice to mass together as a lush, flowering ground cover.

Ecological Benefits

Beyond its visual appeal, adding Filipendula to your landscape supports a healthy local ecosystem.

Pollinator Magnet: Highly attractive to butterflies, native bees, and other beneficial pollinators during the peak of midsummer.
Deer Resistant: Deer typically pass by Filipendula, making it a reliable choice for properties with high wildlife browsing pressure.

Bring Filipendula into Your Garden

Whether you need an 8-foot focal point to anchor a wet meadow or a tough, 12-inch flowering ground cover for a damp border, Filipendula fills the gap beautifully. Stop by the nursery this week to see their stunning foliage in person and find the perfect spot for them in your yard!

JULY GARDEN TIPS

July 1, 2026 Karen Logan

JULY

GARDEN TIPS

As the heat ramps up there are many ways to keep your garden looking beautiful. With a few smart strategies, you can keep your plants vibrant and healthy, ensuring a spectacular display late into the season.

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Watering: Efficiency is Key

Irrigate borders and lawns infrequently but deeply. Generally, gardens and lawns need about 1 inch of water per week, or a deep watering that penetrates 6 inches into the soil.
Use a rain gauge to keep track of natural rainfall and only supplement with irrigation when truly needed.
Thinking long-term? Consider converting parts of your lawn to lower-maintenance groundcovers, shrub or perennial borders, or even meadow plantings. This reduces water needs and boosts biodiversity!

What to Prune and When

Now is the time to cut back any yellowing daffodil foliage. Remember, leaving it intact for as long as possible is crucial, as the plant uses this time to photosynthesize and store energy in its bulb for next spring's display.
Give asters, chrysanthemums, and other late-summer perennials their final pinch in early July to encourage branching and a fuller form. If some perennials look a bit congested, don't hesitate to thin stems to improve air circulation.
After their spring flowering, give a hard cut to catmint (Nepeta), lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis), and perennial geraniums. They'll thank you with a fresh flush of growth!

Weeds & Mulch

The golden rule of weeding? Catch them before they go to seed! This prevents countless new weeds from sprouting.
Mulch! Add organic mulch to any bare spots or plant another "season extender." Shredded leaves saved from fall cleanup are a fantastic, natural, free, and local mulch for annuals, perennials, and even vegetable gardens. They break down over the season, enriching your soil.

Vegetable Gardens

Keep the harvest coming by direct sowing succession crops like radish, lettuce, carrots, chard, and beets for your next harvest.
Fertilize heavy-feeding crops such as corn, tomatoes, squash, peppers, potatoes, onions, and eggplant now to support their continued growth.

Container Plants

Container plants are heavy drinkers and eaters, especially in the summer.

Feed Regularly. Opt for compost tea, fish emulsion, or seaweed extract every 7-10 days. These organic liquid feeds provide essential nutrients.
Water Wisely. On sunny, hot days, your containers might need daily watering. We recommend a deep watering once per day, letting the plants "hold" between waterings encouraging them to develop stronger, tougher roots. Only water when plants show signs of wilting.

Biennials: Next Year's Blooms

Get a head start on next year's garden by sowing seeds of biennials now. Plants like foxgloves, Angelica, Salvia sclarea, Lunaria, and Dianthus will produce leaves this year, overwinter, burst into glorious flower next year and set seed their second season.

Season Extenders

Want to keep color bursting in your garden as summer winds down? Now's the perfect time to plant late bloomers and season extenders. They'll get established nicely and then light up your landscape when other plants are fading. Consider adding:

Tender Salvias:
- 'Black and Blue' Salvia guaranitica for a deep indigo color
- Pineapple Sage for a fragrance
- Dalvia uliginosa for its baby blue flowers

Classic Fall Favorites:
- Asters and mums
- Chrysanthemum pacificum

Hellstrip Gardening

IN THE WEEDS

SHADE GARDENS

June 30, 2026 Karen Logan

Fothergilla illustration by Karen Blackerby Logan

SHADE GARDENS:

DESIGNING WITH DECIDUOUS TREES & SHRUBS

Shady landscapes offer the opportunity to create a lush, low-maintenance woodland oasis steeped in a quiet, magical charm. They are inherently easy to care for, requiring significantly less weeding and watering than hot, sunny beds. They also support a host of wildlife, from woodland birds and pollinating insects to small, beneficial animals. By focusing on a diverse mix of blossoms, varied leaf shapes, vivid colors, and unique bark or branching patterns, you can build a space that is interesting year-round.

***Sorbaria sorbifolia*** *(Tree Astilbe )*

THE MAGIC OF THE DECIDUOUS CANOPY

One major advantage of planting under deciduous trees (trees that drop their leaves in winter) is the light dynamic. Plants growing beneath a deciduous canopy receive both direct and indirect sunlight. In the early spring, before the trees leaf-out, plants receive an abundance of direct sunlight unlike plants tucked away on north-facing slopes or under dense evergreen trees.

Beyond aesthetics, planting trees provides massive environmental benefits:

Temperature Control: Trees drastically reduce surface temperatures by shading the understory.
Climate & Soil Health: They remove carbon dioxide from the air, capture rainwater, and help it absorb deeply into the soil.

To make the most of this environment, your design should mimic a natural forest by creating layers of vegetation. Introducing mid-sized understory trees and large shrubs bridges the gap between the tall canopy and the ground. These layers provide vital nesting habitat for birds and pollinators, making the landscape visually striking and alive with life.

To truly mimic a forest ecosystem, feed your soil from the top down. Start by adding plenty of organic matter like compost, leaf mold, or well-aged natural hardwood bark. In the fall leave the leaves! This natural leaf litter decomposes to improve soil structure, locks in moisture, and provides crucial overwintering habitat for local pollinators and beneficial insects.

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DECIDUOUS TREES & SHRUBS FOR SHADE

Choosing the right plants means balancing beauty with resilience, especially if local deer like to browse in your yard. Here are some examples of wonderful deciduous trees and shrubs that thrive in the shade that we carry at Vineyard Gardens.

Shrubs & Small Trees

Amelanchier canadensis (Serviceberry): A gorgeous native small tree that offers delicate white spring blooms, delicious berries, and stunning fall color. Seldom severely damaged by deer.
Aesculus parviflora (Bottlebrush Buckeye): A wide-spreading plant perfect for transitional woodlands or under a canopy of taller oaks. It produces massive, fluffy white flower spikes in midsummer. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Mix Bottlebrush Buckeye with other woodland lovers like Viburnum opulus, Aronia x prunifolia (Chokeberry), and Ilex verticillata ‘Winter Red’ (Winterberry) for a multi-season display.
Deciduous Azaleas: Deer are far less likely to eat these native deciduous varieties, which offer beautiful, often fragrant spring flowers.
Rhus aromatica 'Gro Low' (Fragrant Sumac): A tough, low-growing groundcover shrub with spectacular orange-to-red fall foliage. Rarely damaged by deer.
Sorbaria sorbifolia (Tree Astilbe): Features feathery, fern-like leaves and large plumes of white flowers. It spreads vigorously to fill tough spaces. Rarely damaged by deer.
- SEM': Compact, colorful, and controlled growth habit.
Clethra alnifolia (Summersweet / Sweet Pepperbush): Native Clethra have excellent shade tolerance, sweet summer fragrance, and intense yellow fall color. Rarely damaged by deer.
- 'Vanilla Spice': Features extra-large, pure white flower spikes that are heavily fragrant.
- 'Hummingbird': A compact, low-growing selection that forms a lush mound.
- 'Ruby Spice': A favorite that has rose-pink flowers throughout the summer.

Hydrangeas: Hydrangeas are great shade garden shrubs, though they can be browsed by deer.
- Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth Hydrangea): The native species featuring large, white flower heads. Moderately deer resistant.
- Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea): The classic blue or pink mophead and lacecap varieties. Occasionally severely damaged by deer.
- Hydrangea petiolaris (Climbing Hydrangea): A magnificent wood-vined climber with lacecap flowers and rich, peeling winter bark. Occasionally severely damaged by deer.
- Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea): A native beauty with deeply lobed, oak-like leaves, massive white flower panicles, and mahogany-red fall color. Occasionally severely damaged by deer.

Fothergilla (Witch Alder): A great choice for multi-season interest, with honey-scented, bottle-brush spring flowers and some of the best orange autumn foliage. Highly deer resistant.
- 'Mt. Airy': An upright cultivar known for its reliable fall color and abundant blooms.
- Fothergilla gardenii (Dwarf Fothergilla): A compact, slow-growing species perfect for smaller garden beds.

Spirea: While traditionally grown in full sun, these specific cultivars tolerate partial shade remarkably well and bring reliable color to the understory. Seldom severely damaged by deer.
- 'Anthony Waterer': Features deep rose-pink flower clusters and attractive reddish new spring growth.
- 'Snowmound': An arching shrub smothered in a blanket of pristine white spring blossoms.

Viburnum: Viburnums are the backbone of the woodland garden, offering beautiful tiered branching habits, lacecap or snowball blooms, and berries for local birds.
- Viburnum dentatum (Arrowwood): Exceptionally tough native species with white spring clusters followed by blue-black fall berries. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Viburnum dentatum 'Blue Muffin': A compact cultivar prized for its intensely vibrant, electric-blue fall berries. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Viburnum dentatum 'Sparkler': Features deeply veined, glossy foliage and a robust, dense upright habit. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Viburnum plicatum 'Mariesii': A Doublefile Viburnum with distinctive horizontal, tiered branches that mimic layers of snow when blooming.
- Viburnum plicatum 'Popcorn': Perfectly round, popcorn-like white flower clusters; excellent heat and drought tolerance once established.
- Viburnum carlesii 'Spice Baby': A compact Korean Spice Viburnum known for its intensely fragrant, spicy-sweet pink-to-white spring blooms.

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By layering these incredible deciduous plants and prioritizing soil health your shade garden will transform into a rich, low-maintenance sanctuary for both you and local wildlife.

POLLINATOR GARDENS

DAHLIAS

June 22, 2026 Karen Logan

DAHLIAS

Do you want to bring unparalleled color, dramatic size, and a non-stop supply of cut flowers to your late-summer garden? Dahlias are the answer. These spectacular plants bloom reliably from midsummer all the way to the first frost, bursting with a variety of colors. They range in size from 2-inch buttons to massive 10-inch "dinnerplate" blooms, with some varieties standing 4 to 5 feet tall. To get the absolute best show of flowers, always plant them in full sun.

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Dahlias at Vineyard Gardens

Vineyard Gardens carries a fantastic variety of dahlias to suit every garden style. To give our customers a jump on the growing season, we sell these plants in pots so they can go right into your garden with an established root systems. We also sell the bare tubers directly in our retail store.

Grown from Seed: We propagate a variety of dahlias seeds at our production facility in West Tisbury.
Grown from Tubers: We also source 20 to 30 varieties of tubers, which are the best options for dedicated cut-flower gardens. These vigorous plants grow up to 3 to 5 feet tall in a single season, producing an abundance of flowers.

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Favorites at Vineyard Gardens

'Thomas Edison' : A timeless, deep purple bloom
'Snow Country': A beautiful crisp white bloom
'Otto’s Thrill': Decorative and massive pink blooms
'Firepot': Striking orange and yellow blooms
'Karma Fuchsiana': Showy bright fuchsia-red flowers
'Tahiti Sunrise': a highly popular cactus dahlia prized for its dramatic, spiky, incurved petals
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Helpful Tips on Planting and Growing Dahlias

Dahlias develop from underground tubers that thrive in rich, high-quality soil and respond beautifully to regular feeding. With a well-prepared bed, your dahlias will bloom profusely from summer to fall.

Prepare a deep planting hole in full sun.
Amend the soil generously with organic compost and work in a high-quality organic fertilizer to give the roots a steady supply of nutrients.
Arrange the tuber cluster at the bottom of the hole with the growing points or "eyes" facing upward (allowing the roots to anchor downward).
Gently but firmly press the soil down around and over the clump to eliminate air pockets.
Give the newly planted bed a deep, thorough watering.

Planting your tubers early and deeply enough can often help the plant develop a sturdy base that may not even require staking!

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The Importance of Staking

Unless planted exceptionally deep, staking is crucial when growing large dahlia varieties. While the foliage grows lush and dense, the stems themselves are hollow and surprisingly brittle. A sudden heavy summer rain, a strong gust of wind, or even the sheer weight of their own massive flower heads can easily snap a mature plant. Set one or two sturdy stakes into the ground at planting time and when the plants are growing in use twine to support the heavy stems.

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The Art of Cutting Dahlias

Dahlias are the ultimate cut flower. When harvesting blooms for your indoor arrangements, choose mature, whole stems and try to maintain the overall balanced shape of the parent plant. The more you cut, the more the plant will actively work to replace the branches you removed, sending up fresh new buds continuously until the autumn frost.

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Saving Dahlia Tubers in the Fall

Because dahlias are tender perennials that cannot survive freezing northeastern winters, saving the tubers in autumn is a rewarding ritual that allows you to enjoy your favorite varieties year after year.

Once the first hard frost hits and the top foliage dies back, carefully dig up the tuber clumps.
Cut the main stalks back, leaving just a few inches of stem attached above the tuber clump.
Gently wash off the garden dirt and set the tubers out in the sun for a day or two to dry completely.
Once entirely dry to the touch, place the tubers into a paper bag filled with dry sawdust or peat moss. This regulates moisture and prevents them from shriveling.
Store them in a cool non-freezing spot in the cellar or garage until next spring
In the spring, you can either plant the clump whole to achieve growth immediately, or carefully divide them. Ensure each new piece has at least three visible "eyes" on the crown to guarantee a successful new plant.

GREAT TIME TO

PLANT YOUR

FALL GREENS!

Why Fall is the Best Season for Greens

Stop by the nursery to pick out your cool-weather plants and enjoy a fresh harvested bounty through the fall season!

ASTERACEAE

THE ASTER FAMILY

Morphology

Ecosystem

Garden Uses

This fall at the nursery, we have a large variety of Asteraceous plants available:

True Asters:

OTHER PLANTS IN THE ASTERACEAE FAMILY:

Familiar Annuals in the Asteraceae Family:

AUTUMN GARDEN

Challenges With Late-Blooming Plants:

PLANTS THAT ARE LOOKING FANTASTIC IN THE GARDENS RIGHT NOW

PERENNIALS:

ANNUALS:

FLOWERING SHRUBS:

PLANTS for FOLIAGE:

PLANTS for FRUIT:

Come explore the late bloomers and extend your garden’s bloom season today!

ANEMONE

WINDFLOWER

JAPANESE ANEMONES

CARE:

LANDSCAPE USES:

Japanese Anemones We Carry at Vineyard Gardens

Flowering abundantly from mid-summer through late fall, Japanese anemones are a brilliant, elegant alternative to traditional autumn mums.

NATIVE ANEMONES ON MARTHA’S VINEYARD

Wood Anemone (Anemone quinquefolia)

Tall Thimbleweed / Tall Windflower (Anemone virginiana)

Canada Anemone (Anemone canadensis)

An excellent choice for a deer deterrent border because most Anemones have a natural bitter compound that make it unpalatable to deer and rabbits.

A QUIET OASIS

SHRUBS, TREES & PLANTS INCORPORATED INTO THIS LANDSCAPE

BEFORE & AFTER : TRAILS ON THE PROPERTY

JOE-PYE WEED

Eutrochium

Botanical Illustration through a Biomimicry Lens

Observing Nature’s Design:

The Architecture, Strategies, and Ecology of Joe-Pye Weed

Architectural Height & Stem Resilience

Leaf Structure and Shape

Inflorescence & Pollination

Propagation & Soil Stabilization

Martha’s Vineyard Native Joe-Pye Weed Species

Hollow Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum)

Purple Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)

Coastal Plain Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium dubium)

Spotted Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum)

Garden Companion Plantings

By welcoming Joe-Pye weed into our gardens, we don't just add height and late-season color, we give our island's pollinators a vital lifeline when they need it most.

SEDUMS

Late-Summer Stars of the Garden

Sedums are terrific low maintenance plants which really stand out in late summer to fall.

SEDUM PLANT TYPES

SEDUMS AT VINEYARD GARDENS

Low-Growing & Spreading Varieties

Mid-Sized & SunSparkler® Series

Upright Varieties

Sedum blooms attract pollinators. Birds, butterflies and many insects love them!

PLANTING & CARE TIPS

AUTUMN CLIMBERS

THE LATE SEASON VERTICAL GARDEN

HONEYSUCKLE

WISTERIA

CLEMATIS VITICELLA HYBRIDS

VIRGIN’S BOWER (Clematis virginiana)

AUGUST

GARDEN TIPS

Annuals & Containers

Trees, Shrubs & Perennials

Vegetable Gardens

Weed & Pest Vigilance

Enjoy the buzz of late-summer pollinators darting from bloom to bloom, it’s one of the season’s sweetest rewards!

AGASTACHE

foeniculum

Agastache foeniculum & Hybrids

**Wood Anemone (Anemone quinquefolia)**

**Tall Thimbleweed / Tall Windflower (Anemone virginiana)**

**Canada Anemone (Anemone canadensis)**

**Hollow Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium fistulosum)**

**Purple Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum)**

**Coastal Plain Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium dubium)**

**Spotted Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum)**

**VIRGIN’S BOWER (Clematis virginiana)**