SHADE GARDENS

June 30, 2026 Karen Logan

Fothergilla illustration by Karen Blackerby Logan

SHADE GARDENS:

DESIGNING WITH DECIDUOUS TREES & SHRUBS

Shady landscapes offer the opportunity to create a lush, low-maintenance woodland oasis steeped in a quiet, magical charm. They are inherently easy to care for, requiring significantly less weeding and watering than hot, sunny beds. They also support a host of wildlife, from woodland birds and pollinating insects to small, beneficial animals. By focusing on a diverse mix of blossoms, varied leaf shapes, vivid colors, and unique bark or branching patterns, you can build a space that is interesting year-round.

***Sorbaria sorbifolia*** *(Tree Astilbe )*

THE MAGIC OF THE DECIDUOUS CANOPY

One major advantage of planting under deciduous trees (trees that drop their leaves in winter) is the light dynamic. Plants growing beneath a deciduous canopy receive both direct and indirect sunlight. In the early spring, before the trees leaf-out, plants receive an abundance of direct sunlight unlike plants tucked away on north-facing slopes or under dense evergreen trees.

Beyond aesthetics, planting trees provides massive environmental benefits:

Temperature Control: Trees drastically reduce surface temperatures by shading the understory.
Climate & Soil Health: They remove carbon dioxide from the air, capture rainwater, and help it absorb deeply into the soil.

To make the most of this environment, your design should mimic a natural forest by creating layers of vegetation. Introducing mid-sized understory trees and large shrubs bridges the gap between the tall canopy and the ground. These layers provide vital nesting habitat for birds and pollinators, making the landscape visually striking and alive with life.

To truly mimic a forest ecosystem, feed your soil from the top down. Start by adding plenty of organic matter like compost, leaf mold, or well-aged natural hardwood bark. In the fall leave the leaves! This natural leaf litter decomposes to improve soil structure, locks in moisture, and provides crucial overwintering habitat for local pollinators and beneficial insects.

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DECIDUOUS TREES & SHRUBS FOR SHADE

Choosing the right plants means balancing beauty with resilience, especially if local deer like to browse in your yard. Here are some examples of wonderful deciduous trees and shrubs that thrive in the shade that we carry at Vineyard Gardens.

Shrubs & Small Trees

Amelanchier canadensis (Serviceberry): A gorgeous native small tree that offers delicate white spring blooms, delicious berries, and stunning fall color. Seldom severely damaged by deer.
Aesculus parviflora (Bottlebrush Buckeye): A wide-spreading plant perfect for transitional woodlands or under a canopy of taller oaks. It produces massive, fluffy white flower spikes in midsummer. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Mix Bottlebrush Buckeye with other woodland lovers like Viburnum opulus, Aronia x prunifolia (Chokeberry), and Ilex verticillata ‘Winter Red’ (Winterberry) for a multi-season display.
Deciduous Azaleas: Deer are far less likely to eat these native deciduous varieties, which offer beautiful, often fragrant spring flowers.
Rhus aromatica 'Gro Low' (Fragrant Sumac): A tough, low-growing groundcover shrub with spectacular orange-to-red fall foliage. Rarely damaged by deer.
Sorbaria sorbifolia (Tree Astilbe): Features feathery, fern-like leaves and large plumes of white flowers. It spreads vigorously to fill tough spaces. Rarely damaged by deer.
- SEM': Compact, colorful, and controlled growth habit.
Clethra alnifolia (Summersweet / Sweet Pepperbush): Native Clethra have excellent shade tolerance, sweet summer fragrance, and intense yellow fall color. Rarely damaged by deer.
- 'Vanilla Spice': Features extra-large, pure white flower spikes that are heavily fragrant.
- 'Hummingbird': A compact, low-growing selection that forms a lush mound.
- 'Ruby Spice': A favorite that has rose-pink flowers throughout the summer.

Hydrangeas: Hydrangeas are great shade garden shrubs, though they can be browsed by deer.
- Hydrangea arborescens (Smooth Hydrangea): The native species featuring large, white flower heads. Moderately deer resistant.
- Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf Hydrangea): The classic blue or pink mophead and lacecap varieties. Occasionally severely damaged by deer.
- Hydrangea petiolaris (Climbing Hydrangea): A magnificent wood-vined climber with lacecap flowers and rich, peeling winter bark. Occasionally severely damaged by deer.
- Hydrangea quercifolia (Oakleaf Hydrangea): A native beauty with deeply lobed, oak-like leaves, massive white flower panicles, and mahogany-red fall color. Occasionally severely damaged by deer.

Fothergilla (Witch Alder): A great choice for multi-season interest, with honey-scented, bottle-brush spring flowers and some of the best orange autumn foliage. Highly deer resistant.
- 'Mt. Airy': An upright cultivar known for its reliable fall color and abundant blooms.
- Fothergilla gardenii (Dwarf Fothergilla): A compact, slow-growing species perfect for smaller garden beds.

Spirea: While traditionally grown in full sun, these specific cultivars tolerate partial shade remarkably well and bring reliable color to the understory. Seldom severely damaged by deer.
- 'Anthony Waterer': Features deep rose-pink flower clusters and attractive reddish new spring growth.
- 'Snowmound': An arching shrub smothered in a blanket of pristine white spring blossoms.

Viburnum: Viburnums are the backbone of the woodland garden, offering beautiful tiered branching habits, lacecap or snowball blooms, and berries for local birds.
- Viburnum dentatum (Arrowwood): Exceptionally tough native species with white spring clusters followed by blue-black fall berries. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Viburnum dentatum 'Blue Muffin': A compact cultivar prized for its intensely vibrant, electric-blue fall berries. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Viburnum dentatum 'Sparkler': Features deeply veined, glossy foliage and a robust, dense upright habit. Rarely damaged by deer.
- Viburnum plicatum 'Mariesii': A Doublefile Viburnum with distinctive horizontal, tiered branches that mimic layers of snow when blooming.
- Viburnum plicatum 'Popcorn': Perfectly round, popcorn-like white flower clusters; excellent heat and drought tolerance once established.
- Viburnum carlesii 'Spice Baby': A compact Korean Spice Viburnum known for its intensely fragrant, spicy-sweet pink-to-white spring blooms.

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By layering these incredible deciduous plants and prioritizing soil health your shade garden will transform into a rich, low-maintenance sanctuary for both you and local wildlife.

POLLINATOR GARDENS

DAHLIAS

June 22, 2026 Karen Logan

DAHLIAS

Do you want to bring unparalleled color, dramatic size, and a non-stop supply of cut flowers to your late-summer garden? Dahlias are the answer. These spectacular plants bloom reliably from midsummer all the way to the first frost, bursting with a variety of colors. They range in size from 2-inch buttons to massive 10-inch "dinnerplate" blooms, with some varieties standing 4 to 5 feet tall. To get the absolute best show of flowers, always plant them in full sun.

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Dahlias at Vineyard Gardens

Vineyard Gardens carries a fantastic variety of dahlias to suit every garden style. To give our customers a jump on the growing season, we sell these plants in pots so they can go right into your garden with an established root systems. We also sell the bare tubers directly in our retail store.

Grown from Seed: We propagate a variety of dahlias seeds at our production facility in West Tisbury.
Grown from Tubers: We also source 20 to 30 varieties of tubers, which are the best options for dedicated cut-flower gardens. These vigorous plants grow up to 3 to 5 feet tall in a single season, producing an abundance of flowers.

Dahlias are a popular late-season bloomer in the aster family and are well-suited to bouquets.

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Favorites at Vineyard Gardens

'Thomas Edison' : A timeless, deep purple bloom
'Snow Country': A beautiful crisp white bloom
'Otto’s Thrill': Decorative and massive pink blooms
'Firepot': Striking orange and yellow blooms
'Karma Fuchsiana': Showy bright fuchsia-red flowers
'Tahiti Sunrise': a highly popular cactus dahlia prized for its dramatic, spiky, incurved petals
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Helpful Tips on Planting and Growing Dahlias

Dahlias develop from underground tubers that thrive in rich, high-quality soil and respond beautifully to regular feeding. With a well-prepared bed, your dahlias will bloom profusely from summer to fall.

Prepare a deep planting hole in full sun.
Amend the soil generously with organic compost and work in a high-quality organic fertilizer to give the roots a steady supply of nutrients.
Arrange the tuber cluster at the bottom of the hole with the growing points or "eyes" facing upward (allowing the roots to anchor downward).
Gently but firmly press the soil down around and over the clump to eliminate air pockets.
Give the newly planted bed a deep, thorough watering.

Planting your tubers early and deeply enough can often help the plant develop a sturdy base that may not even require staking!

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The Importance of Staking

Unless planted exceptionally deep, staking is crucial when growing large dahlia varieties. While the foliage grows lush and dense, the stems themselves are hollow and surprisingly brittle. A sudden heavy summer rain, a strong gust of wind, or even the sheer weight of their own massive flower heads can easily snap a mature plant. Set one or two sturdy stakes into the ground at planting time and when the plants are growing in use twine to support the heavy stems.

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The Art of Cutting Dahlias

Dahlias are the ultimate cut flower. When harvesting blooms for your indoor arrangements, choose mature, whole stems and try to maintain the overall balanced shape of the parent plant. The more you cut, the more the plant will actively work to replace the branches you removed, sending up fresh new buds continuously until the autumn frost.

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Saving Dahlia Tubers in the Fall

Because dahlias are tender perennials that cannot survive freezing northeastern winters, saving the tubers in autumn is a rewarding ritual that allows you to enjoy your favorite varieties year after year.

Once the first hard frost hits and the top foliage dies back, carefully dig up the tuber clumps.
Cut the main stalks back, leaving just a few inches of stem attached above the tuber clump.
Gently wash off the garden dirt and set the tubers out in the sun for a day or two to dry completely.
Once entirely dry to the touch, place the tubers into a paper bag filled with dry sawdust or peat moss. This regulates moisture and prevents them from shriveling.
Store them in a cool non-freezing spot in the cellar or garage until next spring
In the spring, you can either plant the clump whole to achieve growth immediately, or carefully divide them. Ensure each new piece has at least three visible "eyes" on the crown to guarantee a successful new plant.

IN THE WEEDS

June 22, 2026 Karen Logan

Weeding is an inevitable part of gardening, but it doesn't have to consume your entire summer. Over the years, we have developed a few tried and true tricks that drastically reduce weed pressure, keeping your beds looking pristine with a fraction of the effort. Here is how we manage weeds in both the vegetable garden and perennial borders.

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In the Vegetable Garden

Vegetable gardens thrive when soil disruption is kept to a minimum, and managing the foot traffic paths between your crops is half the battle.

Take a standard 3-foot-wide woven weed mat, fold or cut it in half lengthwise, and anchor it securely down between your planting rows. This creates a clean, 1.5-foot-wide walking path that completely suppresses weeds where you step.
Keep the edge of the weed mat tucked as close to the base of your vegetable stems as possible.
When a crop finishes and it’s time to replant that row, simply fold the mat back out of the way, prep the soil, plant your new starts, and flip the mat right back into place.
If you prefer not to use metal landscape staples, weighting the edges down with rocks works perfectly and adds a nice, rustic look to the patch.

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In the Perennial Garden

Perennial gardens require a slightly more nuanced approach than vegetable rows, as you are working with permanent root systems and evolving seasonal plants.

The absolute golden rule of weeding is speed. Get the weeds while they are young and small. At this stage, their root systems are not yet established, making them incredibly easy to pull out with a gentle tug.
Instead of waiting for weeds to mature, get into the habit of lightly disturbing the soil surface with your trowel on a regular basis. This quick, shallow cultivation disrupts and destroys tiny weed seedlings before they can take hold. Cultivating introduces air into the soil, which promotes healthy root respiration for your perennials.
If you love the clean, uniform look of mulch, you can double its effectiveness with a simple bio-degradable barrier. Lay down layers of folded, matte (non-glossy) newspaper directly over the soil before spreading your mulch on top. The newspaper creates an impenetrable light barrier that suffocates existing weed seeds, slowly breaking down into rich organic matter over the season.
Perhaps the most effective way to keep weeds down permanently is to leave them no room to grow. Fill empty gaps in your landscape by densely planting annuals or interplanting perennial groundcovers. When desirable plants claim the space and sunlight, weed seeds simply cannot germinate.

PERENNIAL GROUNDCOVERS

SUCCESSION GARDENING

SUMMER BLOOMING TREES & SHRUBS

June 18, 2026 Karen Logan

SUMMER BLOOMING

TREES & SHRUBS

Shrubs and trees offer numerous benefits to your landscape

Shrubs and trees are the living structures that make a garden more dynamic. They add depth, weight, height and multiple season interest to a space. Not only do they enrich the landscape with colorful vegetation, flowers, fruit and winter interest, they provide food and shelter for a variety of species. Creating habitat and maximum biodiversity is essential to providing for pollinators. Adding native shrubs and trees transforms environments into climate resilient landscapes through erosion control, drought tolerance and flooding.

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Clethra (in foreground and flanking the stairs)

Clethra alnifolia

SWEET PEPPERBUSH (Native)

Clethra is a wonderful addition to any garden, a versatile shrub that can thrive in most conditions. Typically found in open woodlands or swamps along the Atlantic coast this workhorse can flower from full sun to shade. Clethra prefers moist soil but can even adjust to dry, compact soil. It is a sweet scented native shrub that is a pollinator magnet. The white spire blooms lure butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. In addition, to being a hardy shrub, Clethera has year round interest. The deep green summer leaves turn yellow in autumn and in winter clusters of attractive seed pods remain.

USES: Seaside plantings, mass plantings, hedges or rain gardens

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Vitex castus-agnus

CHASTE TREE

Vitex is a beautiful summer blooming shrub. A deciduous, multi-trunk shrub with fragrant lilac blooms and aromatic gray-green foliage. Its flowers attract bees and many other pollinators. In addition, Vitex are deer resistant, moderately salt tolerant and have good drought tolerance once established. Full sun.

USES: Shrub border or a small tree to accent the landscape or patio.

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Lagerstroemia

CRAPE MYRTLE

Crape Myrtle is a deciduous tree that performs best in full sun. Loved for their long lasting summer flowers and their naturally sculpted trunks with attractive exfoliating bark. Crape Myrtle comes in a range of sizes from dwarf 2-3’ tall shrubs to standard tree size of about 20-30’ tall. The larger ones are often pollarded, a type of hard pruning that keeps the plant smaller and blooms more profuse.

USE: Focal tree, a hedge or as part of a border

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Hypericum

ST JOHNS WORT (native options)

Midsummer this outstanding pollinator shrub is adorned with vibrant yellow blooms with abundant pollen bearing stamens and gray blue fine textured foliage. During the winter the attractive seed pods remain, offering food for birds and late season visual interest. St John’s Wort prefers moist well drained soil but are highly adaptable and can withstand drought and soil compaction. They grow naturally on rocky ledges, in sandy areas and woodland openings. Prune hard in spring . They bloom on the new growth.

Hypericum hidcote is very popular with it’s blue foliage and longevity.

USE: Mass plantings borders or hedges

LEARN MORE: HYPERICUM

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Hydrangea

paniculata

Panicle Hydrangeas are the ‘no fuss hydrangea’ with long lasting blooms. They are the stars of the autumn garden when most other shrubs are no longer blooming. Hydrangea panicle goes through a color transformation starting with early summer white that fades to shades of pink or red before drying to beige in the winter. While Mophead Hydrangeas don’t attract bees, Panicle Hydrangeas do have pollinator value for generalist pollinators. They adapt to full sun or part sun. Some popular panicle hydrangeas we carry are Limelight, Limelight Prime, Little Lime and Bobo.

USES: Natural fence or border, focal point, erosion control or containers.

LEARN MORE: HYDRANGEAS

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JUNE GARDENING TIPS

POLLINATOR GARDENING

HYPERICUM

June 18, 2026 Karen Logan

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HYPERICUM

ST JOHNS WORT

There are roughly 15 species of native Hypericum in Massachusetts! Hypericum is a compact, mounded, deciduous shrub. During midsummer this outstanding pollinator shrub is adorned with vibrant yellow blooms with abundant pollen bearing stamens, backed by gray blue fine textured foliage. Hypericum is a perfect plant for any sunny or part shady garden. During the winter the attractive cone shaped seed pods remain, offering food for birds and late season visual interest. St John’s Wort prefers moist well drained soil but can adapt to most soil types, drought, soil compaction and salt. They grow naturally on rocky ledges, in sandy areas and woodland openings. They bloom on the new growth.

This long blooming shrub is a great addition to any garden!

Hypericum integrated into a perennial garden

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Some cultivars available:

Hypericum hidcote: A very popular variety with blue foliage and a long blooming period. Larger yellow flowers than the Floral Berry but not as impressive of a berry display.
Floral Berry: Multi season interest. The yellow flowers are followed by amazing berries in the fall
Hypericum calycinum: A ground cover with large yellow flowers. It can take partial shade but likes a little afternoon shade. With this groundcover more sun equals more flowers! Hypericums calcynum spreads stoloniferously (through underground stems). If it likes the spot, it will spread vigorously. A pollinator magnet!
Hypericum Blue Festival: Beautiful fine-textured powder blue-green foliage as the backdrop to the bright yellow summer blossoms.
Sunny Boulevard : Known for it’s extended blooming time July through September.

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Use:

Mass plantings along borders, hedges and good for stabilizing slopes

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Hypericum just before bloom

Hypericum prolificum (native) just before bloom in June

St.+John%E2%80%99s+Wort+-+Hypericum+%E2%80%98Hidcote%E2%80%99.jpg

St.+John%E2%80%99s+Wort+-+Hypericum+%E2%80%98Hidcote%E2%80%993.jpg

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

POLLINATOR GARDENING

[PLANT PROFILE] HEUCHERA

June 15, 2026 Karen Logan

HEUCHERA

(CORAL BELLS)

Stars of the Shade Garden

When it comes to perennials that combine beauty and versatility, few plants rival Heuchera, commonly known as Coral Bells. These North American natives are prized for their dazzling foliage and delicate blooms, making them a favorite in shade gardens, woodland edges, and even containers.

A FOLIAGE PLANT WITH DELICATE BLOOMS

Heucheras are known for their foliage. Their rosettes of textured leaves stick around from early spring through late fall. With a low, mounding habit, most varieties reach 8–12 inches in height and 1–2 feet in spread. While many gardeners love Heucheras for their richly colored leaves, from lime green to burgundy and even dark purple, their graceful flowers are not to be overlooked. Each summer, tall flower stalks rise above the foliage, blooming for 3-4 weeks with airy, bell-shaped flowers that attract hummingbirds. The flowers of Heuchera sanguinea give the plant its common name, Coral Bells, with vivid blooms native to warm, dry canyons in Mexico, Arizona, and New Mexico.

There has been an explosion of Heucheras cultivars in the last decade. Hybridization is common, due to the fact that the species often intergrade with one another. The increasingly popular Heucherellas (Heuchera × Tiarella) combine the best traits of both parent plants.

Heuchera americana ‘Dales Strain’, the one we do from seed.

Where & How to Plant

Light:

Most Heucheras thrive in partial shade or dappled sunlight, but many red and yellow-leafed varieties tolerate more sun.
In the Northeast, shade is usually best for optimal performance.

Soil & Water:

Plant in well-drained, compost-rich soil. Keep consistently moist, especially in containers.
Heucheras are ideal for woodland gardens, rock gardens, slopes, and as ground covers beneath trees and shrubs.

Heucheras are DEER REISISTANT!

Design Pairings & Garden Uses

Heucheras are beautiful alone but shine even more when paired with other foliage-rich or shade-loving perennials:

Great companions: Ferns, caladiums, hostas, bleeding hearts, iris, astilbe
Ideal uses: Mass plantings, underplanting for trees and shrubs, borders, container gardens, and ground cover alternatives to mulch
Try replacing traditional mulch with ground covers like Heuchera. Not only are they effective at suppressing weeds, they add beauty and habitat too.

Our Favorites

Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’: A cultivar with large green leaves and tall white blooms. Especially striking when planted in mass and blends beautifully with other plants.
Heuchera americana ‘Dale’s Strain’: One of several we grow from seed. It’s a reliable, low-maintenance ground cover under shrubs.

The diversity of Heucheras is greater than ever. There are 37 species of Heuchera and dozens of cultivars now available. Their ability to hybridize easily has led to a stunning array of colors and leaf textures, so whether you're designing a shade garden or a beautiful container, Coral Bells deliver beauty that lasts well beyond their bloom.

PERENNIAL GROUNDCOVERS

June 15, 2026 Karen Logan

Virginia Bluebells [photo by keith kurman]

LIVING MULCH:

Perennial

Groundcovers

When it comes to creating a low-maintenance landscape, low-growing, ground-hugging perennial plants are nature’s best defense against weeds. Instead of continually buying and spreading mulch every spring, planting a "living mulch" of groundcovers brings not only more color and texture but vital food and shelter for local insects and birds. They can even serve as a beautiful alternative to traditional grass lawns.

When you choose native groundcovers, care becomes even easier, requiring no supplemental fertilizer and only minimal watering once established. Many selections are fully evergreen, providing reliable winter coverage and essential erosion control. Whether you are dealing with a baking, full-sun slope or a deep, dry canopy of shade, there is a perfect groundcover for the job.

Try planting ground covers at the base of your shrubs instead of mulching. Ground covers are very effective at keeping weeds out and moisture in!

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Groundcovers for Shade to Part-Shade

These woodland-loving plants thrive in partial to full shade, great for planting under tree canopies and around established shrubs.

Exceptional Foliage

Native Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia): A spectacular native beauty that features delicate, frosted foliage and airy spikes of white flowers in spring.
European Ginger (Asarum europaeum): A slow-spreading perennial grown for its remarkably shiny, leathery, rounded leaves. It features hidden spring flowers tucked entirely beneath the foliage that are uniquely pollinated by ants! Evergreen.
Barrenwort (Epimedium): A highly less-common groundcover that is incredibly tough once established, thriving effortlessly in dry shade where other plants struggle.
Pachysandra: While Japanese Spurge (Pachysandra terminalis) is an industry standard, our favorite is our Allegheny Spurge (Pachysandra procumbens), a gorgeous Eastern US alternative with beautifully mottled, matte-green leaves. Both are excellent evergreen choices.
Wood Spurge (Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae): A highly deer-resistant, evergreen option that spreads vigorously via underground stolons. It sends up striking 18-inch stalks of chartreuse blooms in the spring and appreciates protection from the hot afternoon sun.

Spring Bloomers

Sweet Woodruff (Galium odoratum): A fine-textured carpet that covers the ground with small, starry white flowers from spring through early summer. It spreads vigorously via shallow side shoots, making it an ideal border accent. Because it isn't aggressive, spring-blooming bulbs can easily push right up through it.
Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica): A classic choice that forms large clumps of soft blue, bell-shaped flowers in the spring. Virginia Bluebells go completely dormant and disappear by mid-summer. Always plant them in combination with later-emerging perennials, which will seamlessly fill the empty space later in the season.
Native Bunchberry (Cornus canadensis): A stunning, trailing native groundcover in the dogwood family. It features classic white four-petaled flowers in late spring / early summer, followed by bright clusters of showy red autumn berries.

**Virginia Bluebells (*Mertensia virginica*)**

Native Ferns (Excellent Massers)

Ferns spread beautifully to create lush carpets in damp or dappled shade:

Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris): Tall, dramatic, and spreads rapidly via runners to fill large spaces.
Hay-Scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctiloba): A fast-spreading, native ground-covering fern that releases a beautiful aroma resembling fresh-cut hay when brushed against.
Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides): A glossy, deep green native fern that stays fully evergreen through the winter months.
And there are many more!

Groundcovers for Sun to Partial Shade

These sun-loving groundcovers are perfect for open borders, rock gardens, path edgings, and areas that get hit with hot afternoon sun.

Pussytoes (Antennaria spp.): A fantastic, low-growing native groundcover that thrives in dry, sunny, and nutrient-poor soils. It features soft, fuzzy, silver-green foliage that adds a beautiful, light-reflecting texture to the landscape. In the spring, it produces unique, soft white flower heads that resemble the pads of a cat's paw. It serves as a great native alternative to non-native lamb's ear and is exceptionally tough once established.
Creeping & Woolly Thymes (Thymus spp.): The ultimate choice for hot, sunny, well-drained spaces or planting between stepping stones.
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum calycinum): A true pollinator magnet that produces massive amounts of yellow flowers. It spreads vigorously via underground stems and handles partial shade well, though more sun equals more flowers!
Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi): An incredibly tough, classic native groundcover. It forms a low-profile, woody, evergreen mat that thrives in sandy, coastal soils where little else will grow.
Prairie Smoke / Avens (Geum triflorum): An excellent, ultra-hardy ground cover. While the spring flowers are lovely, it is best known for its spectacular, feathery, pink neon seed heads that look like puffs of smoke rising from the garden bed.
Persicaria: A fantastic choice for late-season interest. This vigorous, stoloniferous spreader features an exceptionally long bloom window from July all the way into October.
Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis / Laurentia) & Pratia: Two fascinating, ultra-low, mat-forming plants that function beautifully as a lawn alternative, filling in completely around flagstones and handling light foot traffic.

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SUCCESSION

GARDENING

AS A GROUNDCOVER

While traditional groundcovers spread outward via stolons or runners to blanket a flat surface, there is another dynamic approach to coverage known as succession gardening. Instead of relying on a single plant to cover a patch of earth all year long, succession planting uses a choreographed sequence of growth where late-emerging, large-leafed perennials rise up to seamlessly replace early-season plants that have finished blooming and gone dormant.

Though these structural plants may not trail along the ground, they function perfectly as a groundcover by ensuring that the soil is never left bare, vulnerable to erosion, or open to opportunistic weeds. Even better, this layered, multi-species approach dramatically increases the overall biodiversity of the garden, offering varied nectars and pollens for different local pollinators as the seasons shift.

The Great Dixter Inspiration

This sophisticated method of choreographing overlapping plant lifecycles is a concept being perfected at the world-renowned Great Dixter House and Gardens in England, where Andrew completed an immersive internship. Andrew has been refining this technique, naturally weaving together plants to create this beautiful succession within our island ecosystem.

Gorgeous combination of Thalictrum ‘Elin,’ Aquilegia, Euphorbia x pseudovirgata and the leaf and seed pod of Paeonia delavayi

How it Works

The magic of succession gardening lies in pairing "ephemerals" plants that put on a spectacular early-spring show and then completely disappear in the summer heat with late-emerging structural companions. Instead of looking at yellowing bulb foliage or empty dirt patches, these late-blooming perennials push right through the fading greenery, covering it completely so you never have to cut it back manually.

Soft, Early-Season Coverups

Pair spring bulbs with soft, mounding textures that come up in early summer. Let the spring perennials foliage be naturally covered up by the expanding leaves of Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) or the dense, clean mounds of White Bloody Cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum 'Album').

The Woodland Understory

True woodland ephemerals are built to bloom before the forest canopy leafs out, meaning they vanish entirely by mid-summer. Spring favorites like Virginia Bluebells (Mertensia virginica), Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis), native Trilliums, and Shooting Stars (Dodecatheon) leave noticeable gaps when they go dormant. Succession plants that slowly emerge from the soil and then unfurl their leaves when the spring bloomers begin to fade covering up the empty space. Good succession plants are Hostas, Heuchera villosa 'Autumn Bride', Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense), Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) or Bigleaf Aster (Eurybia macrophylla).

Larger Structural Plants

Larger spring bulbs and structural perennials leave behind heavy, messy foliage that requires a more robust plant to successfully mask. Large bulbs like Daffodils (Narcissus), Camassia, and Autumn Crocus (Colchicum) can be easily hidden away using towering, architectural late-bloomers like Meadow Rue (Thalictrum), Goat's Beard (Aruncus), or Bugbane/Cohosh (Cimicifuga). A structural giant like Thalictrum will weave its wiry stems right up through the messy, collapsing bulb foliage, completely hiding it from view while throwing up airy lace-like blooms later in the summer.

Late-Season Plants

When mapping out your succession layout, these are some top late-emerging perennials to plant right alongside your spring bulbs and ephemerals to ensure continuous ground coverage:

For Architectural Foliage: Rodgersia, ornamental rhubarb (Rheum), and the smoky, feathery plumes of Bronze Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare 'Purpureum').
For Structural Summer Blooms: Burnet (Sanguisorbia), Monkshood (Aconitum), dramatic Foxgloves (Digitalis), and highly resilient Wood Spurge (Euphorbia).

By pairing the early risers with the late bloomers, your garden becomes a self-managing, living tapestry that protects the soil, smothers the weeds, adds vital food sources and keeps the landscape visually beautiful throughout the entire growing season!

NATIVE GROUNDCOVERS

ECOLOGICAL GARDENING

POLLINATOR GARDENING

June 10, 2026 Karen Logan

Cephalanthus occidentalis, Buttonbush [photo by karen blackerby logan]

POLLINATION

DYNAMICS

Generalists vs Specialists

Do you want your garden to come alive this summer with bees, butterflies, birds and beneficial insects?

To create a thriving sanctuary, let’s look closely at how nature feeds itself. In the world of pollination, insects generally fall into two different categories: generalists and specialists. Understanding the difference is the secret to unlocking local biodiversity in your backyard.

While many gardeners are familiar with generalist pollinators that visit any colorful flower, regional conservation research shows that a healthy ecosystem depends on specialist relationships as well. Think of generalist pollinators, like bumblebees or standard honeybees that are perfectly happy foraging across a massive variety of different flowers.

Specialists, on the other hand, are strictly tied to specific native plant families. According to data from the Vermont Center for Ecostudies (VCE), roughly 25% of our native bee species are pollen specialists. Over thousands of years, these insects have co-evolved alongside specific native plants. They require pollen from specific native plant genera to feed their larvae. Without these specific plants, their reproductive cycle fails. If that exact native plant isn't in your neighborhood, those specialist bees simply cannot survive. A garden filled with non-native flowers might look pretty, but to a quarter of our native pollinators, it is a food desert.

Pollination is complex, co-evolved partnerships between insects and their host plants.

Great Golden Digger Wasp on Monarda punctata Spotted beebalm one of it’s favorite native nectar sources [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Mason Bee (generalist) on High Bush Blueberry [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Monarch on Swamp Milkweed [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Larval Specialists

The Wild Seed Project highlights that specialization extends far beyond bees to butterflies, beetles and moths as well. While adult butterflies are nectar generalists, their caterpillars are strictly host-plant specific, meaning they can only digest the leaves of the exact native plants they co-evolved with. Because a female butterfly will only lay her eggs on these specific hosts, losing the plants means losing the butterflies entirely. The Monarch's total reliance on milkweed is the classic example, but hundreds of our local species share these exact same strict dependencies. Many native beetles are obligate host-plant specialists relying entirely on specific plant families for their food, shelter, and reproductive lifecycle.

Monarch caterpillar on Common Milkweed [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Monarch on Common Milkweed [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Moths, Beetles & Bats: Nightime Pollinators

Did you know that moths, beetles and bats are actually powerhouse pollinators? Recent research shows they are incredibly efficient at keeping our ecosystems healthy, tracking down native plants using specialized evening scents of specific native plants. This is where the magic of a native moon garden comes in. Curated specifically to come alive at dusk, storing the sun’s energy during the day and the flowers open up in the evening. A moon garden uses white or pale flowers and silvery foliage to reflect the moonlight, and their strong, sweet fragrances act as a natural runway guide for nocturnal pollinators. By planting native favorites like Evening Primrose, Sweet Pepperbush, and Swamp Milkweed, you can create an enchanting evening landscape that feeds the moths once the sun sets.

Clethra (Sweet Pepperbush) [photo by karen blackerby logan]

***********

The Magic of Pollination

Our pollinator friends are performing one of the most magical reproductive partnerships.

Flowers offer sweet nectar and protein-rich pollen as an invitation. As an insect lands to eat, sticky pollen grains hitch a ride on its fuzzy legs and body. When it flies to the next bloom, some of that pollen rubs off onto the female part of the flower (called the stigma). From there, a tiny microscopic miracle takes place: the pollen grain grows a tiny tube that tunnels all the way down the center of the flower (style) into the ovary, fertilizing the egg inside. That fertilized egg transforms into an embryo wrapped safely inside a seed. As the seeds develop, the flower's ovary swells up to protect them and that swollen structure is the fruit!

Take a Closer Look: Next time you bite into a fresh summer strawberry, take a peek at the outside. Those tiny "seeds" on the exterior, and the microscopic hairs attached to them, are the direct remnants of the exact moment a tiny pollinator visited that flower weeks ago!

[Videos] Allium buzzing with bees. Oak Leaf Hydrangeas on the Highline in NYC.

***********

Why Native

Plants Matter

By introducing native "keystone" plants into our yards we are actively protecting these ancient, irreplaceable relationships.

This beautiful, interconnected cycle is exactly why native plants matter so much. Because some pollinators rely on very specific plants to complete their life cycles, choosing native species is the single most important thing you can do for your landscape. Native plants have co-evolved alongside local pollinators for thousands of years, making them the absolute best hosts for supporting their life cycles.

Lately, there has been an inspiring surge of understanding around the importance of caring for the native ecosystem through native plants to protect our pollinators. More and more of our customers are looking to grow pollinator-friendly gardens and actively cultivate a healthy, native landscape right in their own backyards. To meet this need, horticulturalists are continually conducting ongoing research and field trials on plants that stand out as true pollinator favorites.

At Vineyard Gardens, we’re passionate about helping you create vibrant, pollinator-friendly gardens using native and well-researched perennials. Whether you're starting entirely fresh or enhancing an existing, established landscape, your choices make a real, measurable difference for pollinator health and biodiversity.

Not sure where to begin? Check out the Cape Cod Native Plants website for a fantastic online tool to help you select the right plants for your site conditions.

Learn more : Native Plant List / Cape & The Islands

Learn more: Native Plant Finder / National Wildlife Federation

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Pollinator

Power Plants:

Our Favorite Perennials

Here’s a list of powerhouse plants that will invite pollinators and energize your garden all season long:

Mondarda, Spotted Beebalm [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Native Pollinator Perennial :

Ageratum (Coelestinum)
Goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis)
Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium ‘Gateway’)
Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum)
Blazing Star (Liatris spicata)
Mallow ‘Rose’ (Hibiscus moscheutos)
Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)
Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis)
Aromatic Aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolius)
Woods Purple Aster (Eurybia divaricata)
Baptisia (Baptisia australis)
Beebalm (Monarda didyma)
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Cutleaf Coneflower (Rudbeckia laciniata)
Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia)

Pollinator Perennials:

Agastache (‘Kudos’ Coral, Ambrosia, Mandarin, Blue Fortune, Black Adder, Little Adder)
Bluebeard (Caryopteris)
Coneflower (Echinacea) – Sombrero Series, White Swan, Green Twister
Coreopsis – Solanna™ Bright Touch, UpTick™ Gold & Bronze
Goldenrod (Solidago)
Lavender (Lavandula)
Milkweed (Asclepias)
Phlox (Phlox paniculata)
Salvia
Perennial Sunflower (Helianthus)
Stonecrop (Sedum)
Yarrow (Achillea)

Sedum, Butterfly Milkweed, Quickfire Hydrangea

***********

POLLINATOR FRIENDLY SHRUBS

Native Pollinator Shrubs:

Lowbush Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium)
Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
Beach Plum (Prunus maritima)
Arrowwood Viburnum (Viburnum dentatum)
Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
Sweet Pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia)
American Elderberry (Sambucus nigra ssp. canadensis)
Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)
Sweet Fern (Comptonia peregrina)
Willow (Salix)
Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis)

Pollinator Shrubs:

Double File Viburnum (Viburnum plicatum)
Fothergilla
Lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
Ninebark (Physocarpus)
Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum)

Buttonbush [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Purple Leaf Sand Cherry [photo by karen blackerby logan]

Elderberry [photo by karen blackerby logan]

***********

POLLINATOR FRIENDLY TREES

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis Pendula) [photo by keith kurman]

Native Pollinator Trees:

Red Maple (Acer rubrum)
Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)
White Oak (Quercus alba)
American Holly (Ilex opaca)
Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis)
Magnolia virginiana
Dogwoods – Gray, Silky, Red-twig, Pagoda, Flowering

Additional Pollinator Trees:

Magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora 'Little Gem')
Stewartia

***********

READY FOR

POLLINATOR

GUESTS THIS

SUMMER?

Let your garden be a living, blooming, buzzing celebration of life.

Visit us at Vineyard Gardens to explore our selection of native and pollinator-friendly plants.

Native Eastern Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) [photo by karen blackerby logan]

St. John’s Wort & Cleome (pollinators and deer resistant) [photo by keith kurman]

NATIVE POLLINATOR RESOURCES

HOMEGROWN NATIONAL PARK: DOUG TALLAMY

ASTILBE

June 9, 2026 Karen Logan

ASTILBE

Bring Vibrant Texture and Color to Your Shade Garden

GROWING ASTILBE

If you have a shady corner where other flowering plants refuse to thrive, Astilbe is a wonderful solution. These spectacular, clump-forming perennials illuminate dark garden beds with bold swaths of color and intricate texture from late spring through mid-summer.

Astilbes are instantly recognizable by their feathery, plume-like flowers, which come in rich shades of red, pink, lavender, purple, and crisp white. But the beauty doesn't stop at the blossoms, their glossy, fern-like foliage is equally striking, showing off hues of deep green, bronze, and copper-brown. While they are historically celebrated as deer-resistant additions to the landscape, local island deer have occasionally been spotted snacking on them recently, so it's always wise to keep an eye on them!

ASTIBLE ATTRACT BUTTERFLIES!

***************

COMPANION PLANTING

Perfect Combinations for Moisture & Shade

Astilbes love company, provided their neighbors share their love of cool roots and afternoon shade. They are fantastic for attracting butterflies to the garden! To create a lush, multi-layered look, try pairing them with these moisture-loving favorites:

Shrubs: Hydrangeas or Hypericum (St. John's Wort).
Perennials: Rodgersia (Roger’s Flower), Snakeroot (Cimicifuga/Actaea), Meadow Rue (Thalictrum), and a diverse mix of hardy ferns.

***************

CARE

Skip the Deadheading!

With most summer perennials, gardeners are trained to consistently snip off faded flowers to trigger a second flush of blooms. Astilbe is the exception. Cutting back spent Astilbe blooms won’t bring more flowers, and you’ll actually miss out on a key attribute! Their dried, copper-toned flower heads possess immense ornamental value and structure. We recommend leaving them standing to add architectural interest to your borders clear into autumn, though you can cut them down at any time if you prefer a tidier look.

Soil & Sun: Plant in partial to full shade. They absolutely thrive in a loamy, humus-rich soil that holds moisture well.
Watering: Check your plants regularly. Astilbes require plenty of water and consistent moisture. Water deeply to promote a robust, resilient root system and protect them from scorching afternoon sun.
Feeding: Apply a high-quality organic fertilizer in early spring as new growth emerges.
Dividing: Astilbes are robust growers that quickly form broad clumps. Divide your overgrown clumps every 3 to 4 years in the spring.

***************

Astilbe Varieties

Vineyard Gardens carries 25 to 30 different cultivars at the nursery, offering an incredible range of heights, bloom times, and colors. Here are a few standout favorites to look for on your next visit:

Astilbe chinensis 'Pumila': A fantastic, low-growing variety that spreads to form a dense, weed-suppressing ground cover. (10” tall)
Astilbe 'Hennie Graafland': A lovely, delicate dwarf variety perfect for front-of-the-border edging. (12”–18” tall)
Astilbe 'Montgomery': Features deep red plumes over dark, bronze-tinted foliage. (20"–24” tall)
Astilbe chinensis 'Superba': One of our absolute tallest pink selections, making a massive architectural statement. (24”–48” tall)
Astilbe chinensis 'Mighty Red Quin': A robust, towering giant featuring massive, ruby-red plumes late in the season. (39”–47” tall)
Other varieties we regularly stock include: Erika, Mighty Pip, Purple Candles, Bressingham Beauty, Delft Lace, Little Visions in Pink, Straussenfeder (Ostrich Plume), Deutschland, Visions, and Mauve.
Stop by the nursery this week to wander through our shade houses and find the perfect texture combination for your woodland garden beds!

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

ANNUALS

June 8, 2026 Karen Logan

HOW

ANNUALS COLONIZE

THE GARDEN

THE MAGIC OF RESEEDING

Annuals are celebrated for providing brilliant, non-stop color all summer long. Unlike perennials, annuals complete their entire life cycle in a single season; germinating, blooming, producing seed, and then dying as winter approaches.

But their story doesn't end there, before they go, they drop their seeds to the earth. Hidden in the soil through the winter, these seeds burst to life the following spring as a brand-new generation. Often the seedlings are identical or very similar to the mother but these seedlings aren't always carbon copies of the mother plant. Much like human brothers and sisters, they share a family resemblance but can often surprise you with unique variations.

When a plant successfully naturalizes and drops seed in the same area year after year, it is called colonizing. This process creates effortless, natural-looking drifts in the landscape. If you want to welcome this self-sustaining magic into your yard, here are some fantastic annuals (and biennials!) that love to colonize:

Poppies
Bachelor’s Buttons
Cleome (Spider Flower)
Larkspur
Browallia americana (Jamaica Forget-Me-Not)
Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist)
Foxgloves (A classic biennial that colonizes)

Because they put all their energy into a single season, annuals usually boast a much longer blooming window than perennials, with many flowering non-stop from June until frost. By planting colonizing varieties, you get the best of both worlds: unbeatable summer-long color, and a beautiful return performance next spring!

Calendula Bon Bon mix / A dwarf Calendula blooms all summer in full sun or part shade. Calendula flowers are edible. Other edible flowers to use as garnishes include Bachelor Buttons, Borage Borago officinalis, Nasturtiums and Violas.

Calibracoa Sweet Peach. Annual blooms all summer.

Calendulas(Taller). Taller calendulas make good cut flowers. Edible.

****************

Tips for

Reseeding Success

If you want to encourage your annuals and biennials to naturalize and carpet your garden beds next spring, a few simple adjustments to your maintenance routine will maximize your success:

Time Your Deadheading: Cutting back faded flowers keeps the plant blooming vigorously all summer. However, if you want the plant to drop seed for next year, you must stop deadheading later in the season. The flower heads need time to dry, mature, and develop viable seeds on the stem.
Go Easy on the Mulch: Avoid burying the area around the mother plant under a heavy layer of mulch. Many annual seeds are tiny and require direct contact with the soil and ambient sunlight to trigger spring germination.
Rethink Your Fall Cleanup: If you are trying to establish a colony of self-seeding plants, in the fall mulch that specific area very lightly, or skip it altogether, so you don't accidentally smother the fallen seeds.

****************

TRY THESE!

We have many favorites! The tried and true ones are still around.

There are new introductions of cultivars within each of these.

Geraniums / Impatiens / Cosmos / Cleome / Portulacas / Salvias / Marigolds / Alyssum / Ageratums / Nasturtiums / Nicotianas / Dahlias / Asters / Zinnias / Morning Glories / Amaranthus / Gomphrenas / Pentas / Lisianthus / Scabiosa / Snapdragons / Dusty Miller / Callas / Caladiums / Coleus / Agapanthus / Tropical Hibiscus / Fuchsia

****************

LONG BLOOMING PROVEN WINNER ANNUALS

Argyranthemums / Osteospermums / Lobularias / Calibrachoas / Euphorbia Diamond Frost / Petunias / Torenias / Diascias / Phlox / Verbenas

****************

LESSER KNOWN ANNUALS THAT ARE STRONG GARDEN PERFORMERS

Browallia americana / Orlaya grandiflora / Ammi majus / Erigeron karvinskianus / Nigella / Ceratotheca triloba / Rhemania angulata / Emilia coccinea / Tithonia / Sanvitalia / Dahlberg Daisies / Daturas Ricinus / Clary Sage (Blue Monday and Pink Sundae) / Tibouchina urvilleana

****************

RECOMMENDED DEER RESISTANT ANNUALS

Lantanas / Salvias / Daturas / Ricinus

****************

TRY ADDING ANNUAL VINES TO CONTAINERS & HANGING BASKETS

Mina lobata / Thunbergias / Cobaea scandens (Cup and Saucer Vine) / Mandevilla

Nasturtiums

Salvia Amistad / Salvia Hummingbird / Verbena Vanessa Purple / Nemesia Bluebird / Petunia Vista White / Hippo White Polka Dot / Dichondra / Euphorbia Frost

Dahlia

Cosmos Sonata Pink

Geraniums

Osteospermum Serenity Bronze

Petunia Easy Wave Blue

Portulaca Fuschia

Portulaca Fuchsia

Salpiglossis

Thunbergias

Calla Lily_Zantedeschia Snow Storm

Ipomoea Heavenly Blue

Calibrachoa_Million Bells

Sweet Alyssum

Nicotiana langsdorfii

Coleus

Cleome Senorita Blanca

Cleome Senorita Rosalita

Hibiscus Tropical Jewel Amber

Hibiscus Tropical Jewel Ruby

Lanatana Bandana Mango

Lantana Sunrise Rose

Lantana Bandana Lemon Zest

Lantana Bandera Red

Lantana Lucsious Golden Gate

Lantana Samantha

Tibouchina urvilleana

Tithonia

Eschscholtzia Californica Orange Poppy

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Integrating Annuals into Your Garden Design

Annuals are the secret weapon for creating a dynamic, cohesive landscape. Whether you are tucking them into perennial borders, designing container displays, or hanging lush baskets, they offer an unbeatable, season-long consistency of color that anchors your overall garden design.

When you allow annuals to reseed naturally, they act as a beautiful visual thread that ties the entire garden together. Because they sprout in a delightful, random fashion, weaving seamlessly between and within your established perennials—they create an effortless, cottage-style aesthetic with no apparent pattern.

Unlike perennials, which shouldn't be overcrowded if they are to thrive, annuals are excellent for filling the gaps between your permanent plantings. The golden rule? Learn to identify the young seedlings as they emerge in early spring so you don’t accidentally pull them out thinking they are weeds!

We Grow an Assortment of Annuals!

______________
* Fillers in perennial
beds.
* Use in hanging baskets
* Use in container
plantings
* Many annuals make
great cut flowers.

*************

Hanging Baskets

***MORNING GLORIES***
***Heavenly Blue***
***Chocolate***
*****
***BEGONIAS***
***Solenia Dark Pink***
***Bossa Nova Orange***
***Encanto Pink***
***Miss Miami***
*****
***PETUNIAS***
***Headliner Banana Cherry***
***Headliner Raspberry Swirl***
***Headliner Night Sky***
***Surfinia Magenta***
***Surfinia Heavenly Blue***
***Heavenly Amethyst Burst***
***Patio Radiant Dark Blue***
*****
***LOBELIA***

***THUNBERGIA***
***Orange Wonder***
*****
IMPATIENS
***Double Sparkler Hot Pink***
***Dark Red***
***New Guinea Impatiens***
*****
***GERANIUMS***
***Great Balls of Fire Light***
***Caliente Orange***
*****
***FUCHSIA***
***Wind Chimes Basket***
***Red/White***
*****
TORENIA
***Summer Wave***
*****
***SCAEVOLA***
***Whirlwind Blue***

Geranium Great Balls of Fire Light Lavender

Begonia Bossa Nova Orange

Begonia Encanto Pink

Begonia Miss Miami

Begonia Solenia Dark Pink

Fuchsia Aretes Upright Rio Grande

Fuchsia

Geranium Caliente Orange

Geranium

Impatiens Double Sparkler Dark Red

Impatiens Double Sparkler Hot Pink

Ipomoea Chocolate (Morning Glory Chocolate)

Petunia Headliner Banana Cherry

Petunia Headliner Night Sky

Petunia Headliner Raspberry Swirl

Petunia Heavenly Amethyst Burst

Petunia Surfinia Heavnely Blue

Petunia Surfinia Magenta

Torenia Summer Wave Large Blue

CONTAINER PLANTING

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

NASTURTIUM

June 8, 2026 Karen Logan

Nasturtiums

The Ultimate Easy-to-Grow Annual

Nasturtiums are vibrant, fast-growing annuals that are perfect for beginners and a joyful project to grow with children. Not only do they reward you with an abundance of beautiful blooms, but the entire plant is edible, both the leaves and flowers add a delicious, peppery kick to summer salads! Their sweet fragrance also makes them a lovely, unexpected choice for small cut-flower arrangements.

**********

Choosing the Right Variety for Your Space

For Containers & Baskets: Choose compact, dwarf varieties that won't take over your patio. Excellent choices include 'Alaska Variegated', 'Empress of India', 'Cherry Rose Jewel', or the 'Fiesta Blend'.
For Vertical Gardens & Living Mulch: If you want a trailing ground cover, a natural weed barrier, or a climbing vine, look for trailing varieties with long runners like 'White Moonlight', 'Red Canary Creeper', 'Yellow Canarybird', or a robust Trailing Mix.

**********

PLANTING & PLACEMENT

Sowing Seeds: You can start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost, or sow them directly into the garden in early spring. Plant seeds 1/2” deep and space them 10 to 12 inches apart. You will see sprouts emerge in just 7 to 10 days!
Sunlight: Select a spot in full sun. They can tolerate partial shade, but they won't bloom nearly as vibrantly.
Soil Secret: Nasturtiums actually prefer poor, lean soil and do not need fertilizer. Rich, fertile soil will trigger a massive flush of green leaves but very few flowers. Plant them in those tricky garden spots where other annuals struggle!

**********

SUMMER CARE

Water regularly throughout the season, but let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to avoid over-saturating them.
Deadhead faded flowers consistently to prolong the blooming season into autumn.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season to encourage fresh, bushy growth.

JUNE GARDEN TIPS

CONTAINER GARDENING

LEARN MORE ABOUT ANNUALS

HYDRANGEA

June 5, 2026 Karen Logan

HYDRANGEAS

If you have a garden then most likely there is a good spot for a hydrangea. There are so many different varieties, sizes and light requirements that there is something for everyone. Panicle hydrangeas are your late bloomers that can withstand full sun; mopheads are shade loving hydrangeas with varying size options and most of them do well in containers. Oak leaf hydrangeas are bee magnets and there is even a northeast native that provides a valuable food source for the hydrangea sphinx moth. Hydrangeas mix well in both the cultivated and natural garden with their broad leaves complimenting the finer foliage textures of other plants and shrubs.

******************************************

HYDRANGEA

MACROPHYLLA

Big Leaf, Mophead or Lacecap

The genus name Hydrangea comes from hydor meaning "water" and aggeion meaning "vessel", in reference to the cup-like flower.

A deciduous shrub with a rounded habit that typically grows 3-6’ tall and as wide unless damaged by harsh winters or pruned smaller.
Mophead Hydrangeas produce ball shaped flower clusters
Lacecap Hydrangeas produce small flowers surrounded by a ring of larger flowers

Endless Summer, a newer macrophylla(mophead) that blooms on new growth instead of last years stems, so flower buds don’t get frosted in a severe winter or late spring frost.

GROWING HYDRANGEA MACROPHYLLA

**************

Best grown in rich, medium moisture, well-drained soils in part shade. Tolerates full sun only if grown in consistently moist soils.
Soil pH affects the flower color of most cultivars except white (blue in highly acidic soils and lilac to pink in slightly acidic to alkaline soils). Add aluminum sulfate to the soil to make the flowers bluer or add lime to the soil to make the flowers pinker. Begin soil treatments well in advance of flowering, as in late autumn or early spring.
Hydrangea macrophylla bloom on last year’s growth, meaning living, green stems should never be cut back in spring or early summer if you want flowers. Mid June is the perfect time to clean up your shrubs by removing completely dead, bare winter wood and brittle tips from the center of the plant. If your hydrangea requires any structural shaping or size control, wait to prune until immediately after flowering finishes in late summer so the plant has time to set next year’s buds before winter.
Best to mulch plants year-round with 3" of shredded bark, peat or compost.
Winter hardy but planted in sheltered locations gives additional winter protection. Regardless of protective measures taken, most bigleaf hydrangeas simply will not bloom (or will bloom poorly) in some years due to a variety of winter conditions.

hydrangea macrophylla

*********
Nikko Blue
Endless Summer
Bloomstruck
Blue Enchantress
Penny Mac
Glowing Embers
Lanarth White
Blushing Bride

USES

____________
* Group or mass in the
shrub border.
* A specimen or accent
for foundations and
other locations
near homes or patios.
* Hedges
* Containers

**************

HYDRANGEA

PANICULATA

Panicle Hydrangeas

Panicle Hydrangeas are the no fuss hydrangea with long lasting blooms. They range in size from large to compact depending on variety, allowing for many planting options in the landscape. A late blooming shrub, they become the autumn stars when most other shrubs are no longer blooming. Triggered by air temperature fluctuations, hydrangea panicle go through a color transformation starting with an early summer white that fades to shades of pink or red before drying to beige in the winter. Their nectar-rich flowers attract butterflies and bees late into the season, providing them with a vital food source.

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA ATTRIBUTES

**************

Panicle Hydrangeas thrive in full sun or morning sun, a place in the garden that mophead hydrangeas don’t flourish.
Bloom on new growth each summer so there is no risk of flower buds being harmed by the cold winter or late frost.
As the rest of the garden winds down, the fall panicle hydrangeas take center stage.
Flowers can even be left to dry on the plant in the fall and can stay looking good into the winter.
Panicle hydrangeas, bloom late summer and into the fall. The only hydrangea that blooms at the tips of the new growth and should be pruned in early spring when they first started growing. Too late to prune now in June.

hydrangea paniculata

**********
Limelight
Limelight Prime
Little Lime
Quick Fire
Little Quick Fire
Bobo (dwarf variety)

USES

____________
* Variety of sizes means
there’s a perfect fit for
most situations
* Smaller specimens ideal for
foundation, mass or
container planting
* Larger specimens ideal for
hedges and back of the
garden

**************

HYDRANGEA

QUERCIFOLIA

Oakleaf Hydrangea

Oak leaf hydrangeas have beautiful large leaves similarly shaped to an oak leaf. The flower panicles are large, white and attract many bees. In autumn the leaves turn to a reddish hue. foliage transitions from green to maroon, falling off in winter to reveal beautiful exfoliating bark. Beyond its impressive foliage, the flowers also put on an exquisite show, changing from white to a stunning pink or red as the plant matures. Oak leaf hydrangeas prefer partial shade.

*Mophead, Lace Cap, Oakleaf and Climbing Hydrangeas all bloom on last years growth, so only prune out the dead stems!

**************

HYDRANGEA

ANOMALA

PETIOLARIS

Climbing Hydrangea

“First it sleeps, then it creeps and then it leaps.” This old adage seems to speak directly to the climbing hydrangea. This vine is slow to start but once it gets establish after a couple years it leaps! A vigorous vine with lush green foliage blanketed by beautiful lace cap white blooms. This hydrangea has year round interest, with their long lasting summer blooms that dry beautifully on the vine in autumn and when the leaves have fallen gorgeous exfoliating bark is revealed. Climbing hydrangea can thrive in full sun to shade. It can be planted on sturdy structures, like stone or brick walls, chimneys, and houses.

**************

HYDRANGEA

ARBORESCENS

Smooth Hydrangea

Hydrangea arborescens, our native hydrangea, is found along rocky wooded slopes, ravines, streambanks, and bluff bases in the eastern United States. Smooth hydrangea is the host plant of the hydrangea sphinx moth and attracts butterflies, moths, pollinators and songbirds. The blooms are on new wood and can be pruned back close to the ground in late winter. Several cultivars have flowers that make a ball-shaped bloom. It is low growing and stacks well beneath taller trees and shrubs. We carry Annabelle and Invincible Spirit

USES

———————
*Planted in mass
*Native specimen
*Pollinator garden
*Rain garden
*Shade garden
*Grows well on a slope,
naturalized area or
in a woodland

**************

FERTILIZE HYDRANGEAS IN EARLY SUMMER

All hydrangeas tend to grow better when they are fertilized, even the native ones.

If you missed feeding your plants early in the season when you did your spring clean up, you can make up for that now (before August 1). The plants that respond best to fertilizer this time of year are the rebloomers: big leaf (macrophylla), mountain (serrata) and woodland/smooth (arborescens) varieties. You may want to help them produce those reblooming flowers to carry your garden through to the end of the season

Panicle hydrangeas can take the most sun, all the other hydrangeas would rather be in some afternoon shade.

JUNE GARDENING TIPS

Hydrangea [illustration by karen blackerby logan]

CONTAINER PLANTING

June 3, 2026 Karen Logan

Chives illustration by karen blackerby logan

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CONTAINER

PLANTING

Time to Plant Your Pots

They are a welcoming splash of color at your entrance, on your deck or patio. Pots can vary in size and can be combinations of sizes and heights arranged together to make a dynamic display. Sometimes just one kind of plant in several pots arranged together can be simple and elegant, such as one large hosta in a shade pot next to an impatiens pot. Or an acanthus plant in an urn. An advantage of utilizing planted containers allows you to be flexible with the arrangement.

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Tips for Planting Containers

In mixed containers the plants will be married together for the whole season so be sure they have similar requirements. Group full sun plants or shade plants together depending on your spot.
Annuals long bloom season offers a reliable consistency of color that keep your containers looking fresh through autumn. To elevate your pots and hanging baskets, try weaving in vibrant annual vines like Mina lobata (Firecracker Vine), Thunbergia (Black-Eyed Susan Vine), Cobaea scandens (Cup and Saucer Vine), or classic Mandevilla.
While we typically recommend annuals for containers because they offer non-stop blooms all summer long, don't rule out perennials! Many perennials boast spectacular foliage that looks stunning in pots all season, with the added bonus of a beautiful bloom window. For shady spots, Heucheras (Coral Bells) or Brunnera 'Jack Frost' offer incredible texture, and even a single, large Hosta can make a dramatic statement in a container.
Geraniums are an old time favorite. They are drought tolerant once established. Combine them with other drought tolerant sun lovers like Euphorbia Diamond Frost instead of the traditional vinca major.
Great container plants for sun include Verbenas, Calibracoa ‘Million Bells’, Petunias, Zinnias, Euphorbia Diamond Frost, Salvias, Sweet Alyssum and Sweet Potato Vine. A simple pot can just be Cosmos sonata, dwarf series. You could also try something new like Browallia americana or Cephalophora aromatica.
Great container plants for shade include Impatiens, Begonias, Fuschias, Four O’ Clocks, Nicotiana, Rudbeckia hirtas ‘Black eyed Susan’, Coleus, Lobelia, and Sweet Potato Vine.
Plant the taller plants in the center and the trailers around the outside.
An easy way to insure proper fertility is to put some Osmocote fertilizer on the soil surface when you finish planting your pots and then water with the hose. Otherwise mix a few tablespoons of water soluble fertilizer into your watering can and water them with fertilizer about once a week.
It is still early in the season and annuals grow quickly so don’t overcrowd them.
Most importantly have fun designing and planting your pots and watching them grow.
Add annuals to your perennial beds, containers & hanging baskets for color all season long!

COLOR COMBINATIONS

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When mixing annuals and
perennials, your color palette
can elevate the entire design.
Keep it simple but highly effective
with these basic rules of thumb:
**Monochromatic Magic:**
Layer different tones of the
same color together for an
effortless, sophisticated look.
**High Contrast:**
Pair deep, dark foliage with
bright white blooms for
an instant, dramatic focal point.
**The Great Balancers:**
Use cool blues, muted grays, and
rich greens to tone down louder,
vibrant colors like orange and red.

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HERBS

Elevate Your Containers with Fresh Herbs

Beyond traditional flowers, herbs make a spectacular and practical addition to container gardens. Now is the perfect time to plant a mix of perennial, annual, and edible herbs in your pots to create a complete sensory experience right on your patio, filling your space with incredible textures, rich aromas, and fresh flavors for summer cooking!

LEARN MORE: PERENNIAL HERBS

LEARN MORE: SALVIAS

TIMING IS KEY IN GARDENING! DON’T WAIT TO GET STARTED!

SALVIAS

June 1, 2026 Karen Logan

SALVIAS

Members of the mint family, Salvias are famous for their incredible diversity, boasting over 900 species worldwide. While about 50 of these are native to North America. However, for those of us gardening in Massachusetts, the Lyre-leaf Sage (Salvia lyrata) is our region's only true native sage. No matter the variety, Salvias are renowned as absolute pollinator magnets, featuring nectar-rich blooms that act as an irresistible beacon for hummingbirds, butterflies, and a wide variety of local pollinators.

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GROWING SALVIA

How to Plant & Grow Salvia for Success

Salvias are sun-loving, low-maintenance perennials that reward you with vibrant blooms and incredible pollinator activity all season long. Whether you are looking for classic blues and purples or want to branch out into vibrant pinks, fuchsias, whites, or reds, there is a variety for every palette. These tough, deer-resistant plants are exceptionally easy to care for. Here is how to give your new Salvias the absolute best start in your landscape:

Choose the Right Spot: Select a location that receives full sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily) and has excellent drainage. Salvias absolutely do not like soggy roots.
Prepare the Soil: Dig a hole twice the width of the plant’s container to give the roots plenty of room to expand. Mix a 3-inch layer of high-quality compost into the existing soil to enrich and improve drainage.
Plant with Care: Gently remove the Salvia from its nursery pot. Place it in the hole so the top of the root ball sits perfectly level with the surrounding soil line.
Space for Growth: Space your plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the specific variety. Proper spacing ensures excellent airflow and gives the plant room to reach its mature size.
Backfill and Firm: Fill in the hole around the plant with your soil mix, pressing down gently with your hands to eliminate air pockets and stabilize the root ball.
Water Deeply: Give your newly planted Salvias a thorough, deep soaking to settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
Mulch: Apply a thin layer of mulch around the base of the plant to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Encourage More Blooms: Deadheading spent flowers encourages repeat blooming. Follow the flower stem down to the base and cut just above the foliage for a clean finish and more blossoms.
Spring Cleanup: Wait until early spring, when you see signs of new growth, to cut back old stems. This helps protect the plant during winter and gives you a clearer view of what's emerging.
Divide Every 3 Years: To keep your Salvias vigorous, divide clumps every 3 years. The best time to divide is in early spring, before new growth fully emerges.

While Salvias are remarkably drought-tolerant once established, consistent watering during their first few weeks in the ground is key to healthy, deep root development. With just a bit of maintenance, Salvias reward you with long-lasting color and a steady stream of pollinators.

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PERENNIAL SALVIAS

While most perennial salvias bloom in early summer, you can easily extend their performance by deadheading the faded flower spikes. They will reward you with a fantastic second flush of blooms later in the same season!

Salvia Wind Walker Red

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*A perennial species of*
*Salvia that is 4’ tall.*
*Graceful arching stems*
*with brilliant red flowers*
*bloom from late June*
*through fall. Cut this*
*Salvia back to 6” in*
*early summer to keep*
*stems shorter and*
*stronger. Hummingbirds*
*love it!*

Perennial Salvia Varieties

Salvia nemorosa Species (Meadow Sage)

These are the classic garden staples known for their upright flower spikes and compact, mounded foliage.

'Salvatore Blue': Features aromatic, royal purple-blue spikes that add wonderful vertical interest and deep color to garden beds and planters.
'Caradonna': Features striking, dark purple stems that contrast beautifully with its violet-blue flowers.
'Dark Matter': Deeply saturated, near-black buds that open into intense violet-blue spikes.
'Blue Marvel' & 'Rose Marvel': Some of the largest flower spikes in the genus, providing an extra-bold splash of blue or rose-pink.
'White Profusion': A high-performance variety completely covered in crisp, clean white flowers that rebloom beautifully.
'Snow Hill': A dependable, classic white selection that forms a tidy, cool mound in the border.
'Blue by You': An early bloomer featuring rich blue-purple spikes and excellent heat tolerance.
'Violet Riot': Forms a dense, uniform mound packed with vivid violet-blue flowers.
'East Friesland': A compact old favorite featuring rich violet-purple spikes.
'Feathers Peacock': Feathery foliage and soft lavender-blue flowers.

The 'Lyrical' Series

Known for their robust growth, strong branching, and high flower count per stem.

'Lyrical Blue': Deep indigo-blue petals contrasted beautifully by rich burgundy accents.
'Lyrical Rose': Bright rose-pink flower spikes that bring a soft warmth to the garden.

Other Salvias

'Midnight Model': Produces striking, intense violet-blue flowers on a round, dense, perfectly neat clump.
'Evening Attire': Features huge, vivid violet-blue flowers packed tightly into a highly refined, upright habit.
'Moulin Rouge': Makes a dramatic statement with oversized, rich rosy-pink flower spikes.
'Rhythm and Blues': Striking tricolor blue-purple blooms.

Salvia greggii (Mirage™ Series): Woody, drought-tolerant mounds with aromatic foliage.
Salvia verticillata 'Purple Rain': An "oldie but goodie" featuring arching stems with smoky purple whorls of flowers that look incredibly soft and romantic.

Biennial Sages

Biennials spend their first year growing lush foliage and explode into dramatic, oversized blooms in their second year.

Salvia argentea (Silver Sage): A striking, clump-forming biennial grown as much for its texture as its flowers. It features massive, fuzzy, woolly silver leaves that look like velvet, topped with elegant white flowers.
Salvia sclarea (Clary Sage): A biennial species native to the Mediterranean basin that we proudly grow from seed right here! This is a massive, very showy architectural plant that features huge spikes bearing large, colorful bracts that last all summer.
- The Straight Species: Features pink blooms with darker pink edges.
- Salvia sclarea var. turkestanica: A beautiful variety featuring striking white flecks and pink bracts.

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ANNUALS: SEASON EXTENDERS

Plant them now and they will be gorgeous in the fall!

Annual Salvias are absolute powerhouses in the garden, providing non-stop color from early summer straight into late fall. From unique varieties we start right here from seed to high-performance selections grown from premium plugs, these plants are the ultimate season extenders. In fact, hardy varieties like Pineapple Sage will often stay in full bloom well into November! To get the absolute most out of them, we recommend planting them early in the season so they have plenty of time to reach their magnificent mature size. While they do beautifully in both patio containers and garden beds, keep in mind that they put all their energy into a single season and will not come back next year.

Planning Ahead

It's the perfect time to think about late summer and autumn interest, when designing your garden beds now. Our late-blooming 'season-extender' Salvias are the perfect tool to keep your landscape vibrant and colorful long after other perennials have faded.

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Vineyard Gardens Seed-Grown Favorites

There is a special charm to plants grown from seed right here at the nursery. These selections are famous for their exotic, oversized bracts and incredibly long-lasting color.

Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea): Produces massive, architectural flower spikes with prominent, colorful bracts that look delightfully exotic and last all summer.
Salvia horminium Blue Monday: A true Vineyard Gardens favorite featuring striking, intense blue-violet top leaves (bracts) that retain their deep color for months.
Salvia horminium Rose Sundae: A gorgeous sister variety to 'Blue Monday,' boasting soft, vivid rose-pink bracts that add a beautiful warmth to cottage gardens and bouquets.
Salvia patens Patio Sky Blue (Gentian Sage): Breathtaking sky-blue flowers, set on a compact habit perfect for pots.

'Plug-Grown' Annuals

Grown from specialized starter plugs, these high-performance cultivars grow rapidly into robust, heavy-blooming plants for your large containers and garden beds.

Salvia guaranitica 'Black and Blue' (Anise-Scented Sage): Featuring deep cobalt-blue tubular flowers emerging from dramatic, near-black calyxes.
'Amistad' (Andrew’s Recommendation): A top pick by Andrew! This spectacular hybrid boasts massive, continuous spikes of royal purple flowers sitting on sharp black stems. It is an absolute magnet for hummingbirds.
'Indigo Spires': A deep, rich blue showstopper with extra-long flower spikes. This tough variety keeps going and going. It will still be blooming beautifully alongside your fall asters and mums!
'Skyscraper Orange': Brings unique, warm sunset-orange tones to the annual border on sturdy, upright stems.
'Skyscraper Pink': Features densely packed, bright pink trumpets that stand up beautifully to summer heat.
'Unplugged Pink': A compact, tidy selection covered in soft pink spikes, perfect for mid-sized patio containers.
'Rockin’ Deep Purple': A tough, modern hybrid loaded with rich, royal purple blooms that require no deadheading to keep flowering.
'Rockin’ Blue Suede Shoes': Features soft, light blue petals contrasted against crisp, deep black calyxes.
'Rockin’ Fuchsia': Vibrant, neon-fuchsia blossoms that scream for attention from across the yard.
'Wendy’s Wish': A massive customer favorite featuring brilliant, hot-magenta pink flowers with colorful fluted calyxes.
'Love and Wishes': Another popular favorite, displaying a sophisticated, deep antique shade of reddish-pink and dark maroon stems.

Salvia leucantha ('Mexican Bush Sage'): The ultimate late-season extender. This magnificent, velvety-textured plant saves its main explosion of soft purple and white spikes for autumn, blooming beautifully deep into October.

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Salvias in the Herb House

Explore our fantastic selection of aromatic, edible sages!

Salvia elegans ‘Pineapple Sage’ (annual): A spectacular annual herb and a magnificent season extender. The species name elegans reflects its tender nature, meaning it will not overwinter in our climate. However, it grows at an astonishing rate if you get it in the ground early! When planted in spring or early summer, a simple 4-inch nursery pot of Pineapple Sage will easily reach 4 to 5 feet tall and wide in a single season. In late summer and throughout autumn, it bears brilliant, tubular red flower spikes. As a delightful bonus, its lush green foliage releases a sweet pineapple aroma when brushed.
Salvia officinalis ‘Culinary Sages’ (Perennial)
These hardy perennial sages are wonderful in the kitchen and bring beautiful, year-round texture to the herb garden. While the straight species and 'Berggarten' remain the two absolute classics for culinary use, we also carry these gorgeous, highly ornamental varieties:
- Purple Leaf Sage: Features rich, smoky-purple foliage that adds dark, dramatic depth to herb planters.
- Golden Sage: Boasts bright green leaves beautifully variegated with wide, chartreuse-gold margins.
- Tricolor Sage: A stunning, highly ornamental selection with striking variegated foliage splashed in shades of purple, pink, and creamy white.

LEARN MORE: PERENNIAL HERBS

CONTAINER PLANTING

JUNE GARDEN TIPS

June 1, 2026 Karen Logan

Achillea (Yarrow) & Purple Prairie Clover

JUNE

GARDEN TIPS

June is here, and gardening season is in full swing! With longer days, warmer temperatures, and flowers in full bloom, it's a wonderful time to be outside. Now is when you truly get to enjoy the fruits of your labor: gathering fresh-cut flowers, nibbling on garden veggies and berries, watching pollinators hard at work, and soaking in the rich, fragrant scents of summer.

VEGETABLE GARDENS
We’re still in the thick of planting season and it’s a great time to get your warm season crops in the ground! Now’s the moment for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, beans, corn, and squash. You can also sow a second round of cool-weather favorites like lettuce, arugula, carrots, and beets.

Be sure to stake your vining plants to keep them tidy and productive. And don’t forget to mulch or top-dress around your veggies to suppress weeds and conserve moisture. Our current favorite is Leaf Mold, an amazing natural mulch that improves soil structure and retains water. Ask about it at the nursery!

PRUNING TIPS

Pinch back rhododendron buds now to encourage even more blooms next year.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs (like lilacs) right after they finish blooming.
Give boxwoods a light shaping once they flush out with new growth, just enough to keep that tidy form.

STAY AHEAD OF WEEDS
Weeds love June sunshine too, so stay on top of them early. A great trick? Fill in gaps with more plants! Dense plantings help crowd out weeds naturally and keep your garden looking lush.

TIME TO MULCH
If you haven’t freshened up your mulch yet, now’s the time. Leaf Mold makes an excellent natural mulch, or choose from our bagged Coast of Maine mulches, available at our nursery.

FEED YOUR PLANTS
Everything that’s in the ground can benefit from a mid-season meal. Use an organic, time-release fertilizer to feed gently and consistently over the coming months. We recommend Espoma fertilizers, they’re packed with micronutrients and break down slowly to nourish your plants sustainably. For a quicker boost, water in a liquid organic fertilizer, perfect for fast-acting support. Ask us about our favorite blends when you visit!

ANNUALS & CONTAINERS
It’s a perfect time to plant out annuals in your containers, window boxes, and garden beds. For the best blooms, deadhead regularly and keep them fed! Add a slow-release organic fertilizer when planting, then follow up with a weekly treat of quarter-strength liquid fertilizer to keep them thriving.

Need help picking the right products or plants?

Stop by the Garden Center, we’re happy to help you choose the best options for your space and soil.

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Phlox divaricata (woodland phlox) with Euphorbia polychromatic

Water

Water constantly! All newly planted or transplanted plants need deep watering 1 to 2 times a week, depending on rainfall and sun exposure.

For trees and woody shrubs, a good rule of thumb is:

Once a day during the first week to saturate the root zone
Once a week for the first year, unless we’ve had a soaking rain

July and August are especially critical months to stay on top of watering.

What’s a “deep water”? It depends on your watering method:

Holding a hose at full flow on a shrub may only take a few minutes
A sprinkler covering a large area should run for about an hour, as long as there’s no runoff

Morning is the best time to water. There is less evaporation, and plants can absorb the moisture before the heat of the day.
It’s a myth that watering during the heat of the day will cause leaf burn. If that were true, every rain shower followed by sun would scorch your plants!

A 1 to 3-inch layer of mulch slows evaporation, protects roots, and gradually breaks down to improve soil structure and moisture retention.

Need help with watering?

Vineyard Gardens offers everything from basic watering services to full irrigation installations. We even hand-water, especially for newly planted beds, trees, or shrubs. Let us know if you'd like an evaluation or quote, we’re happy to help.

SHADE GARDENS:

DESIGNING WITH DECIDUOUS TREES & SHRUBS

THE MAGIC OF THE DECIDUOUS CANOPY

DECIDUOUS TREES & SHRUBS FOR SHADE

Shrubs & Small Trees

DAHLIAS

Dahlias at Vineyard Gardens

Favorites at Vineyard Gardens

Helpful Tips on Planting and Growing Dahlias

The Importance of Staking

The Art of Cutting Dahlias

Saving Dahlia Tubers in the Fall

In the Vegetable Garden

In the Perennial Garden

SUMMER BLOOMING

TREES & SHRUBS

Shrubs and trees offer numerous benefits to your landscape

Clethra alnifolia

Vitex castus-agnus

CHASTE TREE

Lagerstroemia

CRAPE MYRTLE

Hypericum

ST JOHNS WORT (native options)

Hydrangea

paniculata

HYPERICUM

ST JOHNS WORT

This long blooming shrub is a great addition to any garden!

Some cultivars available:

Use:

HEUCHERA

(CORAL BELLS)

Stars of the Shade Garden

A FOLIAGE PLANT WITH DELICATE BLOOMS

Where & How to Plant

Heucheras are DEER REISISTANT!

Design Pairings & Garden Uses

Try replacing traditional mulch with ground covers like Heuchera. Not only are they effective at suppressing weeds, they add beauty and habitat too.

Our Favorites

LIVING MULCH:

Perennial

Groundcovers

Try planting ground covers at the base of your shrubs instead of mulching. Ground covers are very effective at keeping weeds out and moisture in!

Groundcovers for Shade to Part-Shade

Exceptional Foliage

Spring Bloomers

Native Ferns (Excellent Massers)

Groundcovers for Sun to Partial Shade

SUCCESSION

GARDENING

AS A GROUNDCOVER

The Great Dixter Inspiration

How it Works

Soft, Early-Season Coverups

The Woodland Understory

Larger Structural Plants

Late-Season Plants

POLLINATION

DYNAMICS

Generalists vs Specialists

Do you want your garden to come alive this summer with bees, butterflies, birds and beneficial insects?

Larval Specialists

Moths, Beetles & Bats: Nightime Pollinators

The Magic of Pollination

Why Native

Plants Matter

Not sure where to begin? Check out the Cape Cod Native Plants website for a fantastic online tool to help you select the right plants for your site conditions.

Pollinator

Power Plants:

Our Favorite Perennials

Native Pollinator Perennial :

Pollinator Perennials:

Native Pollinator Shrubs:

Pollinator Shrubs:

POLLINATOR FRIENDLY TREES

Native Pollinator Trees:

READY FOR

POLLINATOR

GUESTS THIS