EVERGREENS FOR SCREENING

September 28, 2022 Karen Logan

EVERGREENS FOR SCREENING

Evergreens retain their foliage for a full year or more and are classified as either conifers or broadleaf evergreens. Coniferous plants belong to the phylum gymnosperms which are plants that bear cones instead of flowers as reproductive structures. Their leaves are called either needles or scales. These are adaptations for survival in tough windy droughty conditions, like on top of mountains. While broad leaf evergreens have flowers that produce seeds and belong to the phylum Angiosperms, the flowering plants. They are beautiful and functional! Both conifers and broadleaf evergreens are a wonderful asset to your landscape and for screening.

SCREENING is one of the most requested landscape functions. This can seem like a very simple request however from the grower’s perspective it is much more complex and dependent on budget and environment.

BUDGET: How much you have to spend on screening directly correlates to the amount of time it will take to achieve your end goal. The bigger the tree, grass or shrub, the more expensive it is and the more work it is to install. Faster growing plants are not always an ideal option. A fast growing plant can be weak wooded, suffering from high winds or winter damage, or the plant could be invasive and outgrow its location. Even very large transplants can take a couple of years to re-set their supporting root systems. The most economical and hardiest solution is to start your screening "vision" with smaller plants that can quickly establish themselves with slower growth screening behind.

ENVIRONMENT: The Island may be small but it is very diverse in terrain and habitats. What would work for a screen in Vineyard Haven will not necessarily work for screening on the north shore in Chilmark. There are many different soils, exposures and pests that can modify your choices. Deer are a big problem up island and poor, sandy soils are a problem in Oak Bluffs. Some areas have clay soils that cause poor drainage that can slowly kill off new plantings. Some have ample available water that can cause problems for plants like Juniper that are adapted to poor, dry soils. It may help to remember that what you see above ground is only half of the plant, what goes on below is perhaps even more important.

*Layered screening with large Thuja plicatas that give wonderful privacy*

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CONIFERS WE’D LIKE TO HIGHLIGHT

Picea Abies (Norway Spruce). A fast growing evergreen. Growing on average of 13 inches per year! This is ideal for planting on the island because it grows in acidic, loamy, sandy, well drained & clay soils.
Cupressocyparis Leylandii (Leyland Cypress). Grows at least 24" per year. Also ideal for island growing conditions, except for near the shore, where salt and wind can cause irreversible damage.

Pinus Strobus (Eastern White Pine). Prefers acidic, moist, well drained soil. This evergreen grows at least 24" each year.
Thuja plicata Green Giant: We have been carrying this cultivar for years. This specific variety can get up to 60' tall! Many use arborvitae as screening for privacy on their properties, as well as a windbreaker. We have them in several sizes.
Thuja plicata Virginian: This year we received a new cultivar of arborvitae from Worthington Farms, introduced as Thuja 'Green Giants' little sister. Thuja Virginian grows only 15' tall x 6' wide in ten years. Grows 1 to 2 feet yearly. It is also known to be deer resistant! They are beautiful and make great screening. We offer 3 different sizes up to 9'.

BENEFITS OF EVERGREENS

Provide year round interest
Great for privacy screening
Provides habitats for birds and other small animals
Drought resistant, once established
Pollinator friendly!
Great for Martha’s Vineyards climate zone 7A (hardier than zone 7A).

Chamaecyparis lawsoniana ‘Pinpoint Blue’

Broadleaf evergreens make excellent screening as well!

Plants like Hollies, rhododendrons, cherry laurels and andromedas are great, especially for areas that are shady.

VIBURNUM

September 21, 2022 Karen Logan

VIBURNUM

Viburnum are a very popular landscape shrub, both attractive and useful. With the many cultivars available it’s likely to find one to suit your garden. Fragrant viburnums flower in the spring and gives way to berries in the fall. If you’d like your viburnum to produce berries for the birds, you'll need to plant several different varieties that bloom at the same time so plants can cross-pollinate.

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Fall Interest Viburnums

There are many viburnums which have fabulous fall color and berries.

Viburnum trilobum (Highbush Cranberry): Known for its berry production in the fall. Dark green leaves turn purplish-red in autumn, alongside drooping clusters of bright red berries. Typically matures to 8-12 feet tall.
Viburnum plicatum: These are Chris Wiley’s favorite Viburnum in flower.
Viburnum dilatatum 'Cardinal Candy': Known for their drooping red berries.
Viburnum dilatatum 'Michael Dodge': Known for their drooping yellow berries.

Viburnum dilatatum ‘Michael Dodge’ and some Virginia Creeper

Native Viburnums

Viburnum dentatum (arrowwood viburnum): Native to Martha’s Vineyard, Viburnum dentatum grows wild all over Chilmark and the woods of West Tisbury.. Non-fragrant flat-topped white flowers appear in late spring. Flowers give way to blue-black, berries which are quite attractive to birds and wildlife. Tolerates light shade. It is useful in restoration projects or in natural plantings. Deer resistant. We carry a cultivar called Blue Muffin.

Evergreen Viburnums

Viburnum 'Pragense (Prague viburnum): Creamy white flowers in spring gives way to berries in early fall which first appear red and then change to glossy black. Typically matures to 10-12 feet tall. Plant in full sun to part shade.
Viburnum rhytidophyllum (Leatherleaf viburnum): A large rough textured evergreen shrub. Creamy white flowers in spring.

Fragrant Spring Blooming Viburnums

Viburnum carlessi (Korean Spice viburnum): A wonderfully fragrant cultivar. Reddish pink buds open in late March/early April and progress into 3” snowball like clusters of fragrant blooms. Plant in sun to part shade. Typically matures to 4-5 feet tall but may reach a height of 8' in the right conditions.
Viburnum carlocephalum (Fragrant Viburnum): A multi stemmed shrub with an open and rounded form. Fragrant snow-ball type blooms in the spring and reddish fall color. Fruit production happens best when planted in groups. Good drought tolerance once established. Grows 6-10 feet tall and wide.
Viburnum burkwoodii (Burkwood Viburnum): An early spring beauty is Viburnum x burkwoodii which is from a group of Viburnums called Korean Spice or Snowball Viburnum. Burkwood Viburnum grows quite large, under ideal conditions 10’ x 10. It blooms clusters of pinkish white spring flowers with an insanely delicious fragrance in late April-early May. Beautiful dark green foliage. Use as a hedge, screen or accent plant.

Viburnum x burkwoodii [photo credit: keith kurman]

[PLANT PROFILE] LOBELIA

September 12, 2022 Karen Logan

LOBELIA

30% off

A North American native plant that has spires of colorful hood-like flowers that open from bottom to top. Lobelias are typically found in wet, swampy soil or woodlands. They are a perfect choice for low spots in your garden that stay too wet for most plants. Although, given enough water Lobelias will be fine with more sun. They are an excellent choice for partial shade gardens.

Two perennial species we carry are Lobelia siphilitica, the Native Great Blue, and Lobelia cardinalis, Cardinal flower.

We carry the Lobelia cardinalis in its native green leaf form, as well as Queen Victoria, a red leaf form that won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. A newer cardinalis hybrid we are offering is the Starship Series. This series is a little shorter and better branched. We usually have it in scarlet, rose and sometimes blue.

**Lobelia Starship Deep Rose & Scarlet Bronze Leaf**

**Lobelia Starship Deep Rose & Scarlet Bronze Leaf**. Rich bronze or purple foliage throughout the growing season. Adds a bold color for the late summer to early autumn garden.

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CARE

Prefer fertile, evenly moist soil.
Can be divided every 2-3 years in spring.
Allow to self sow.
Winter over with stems on.
Can be pinched back before flowering to produce more compact plants

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USES

Woodland paths
Perennial beds and border gardens with moist, well-drained soil.
Given enough water they can be fine with more sun.
Great choice for partial shade gardens
Well-suited for use in rain gardens, around ponds and streams and other moist areas.

Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. Pairs well with ferns or heuchera.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES FOR FALL COLOR

September 7, 2022 Karen Logan

GRASSES FOR FALL COLOR

30% OFF

Ornamental Grasses have been very popular for decades. They serve many purposes from adding backdrops, texture or a natural feeling to a landscape and are often used in restoration projects. Most of them fare best in full hot sun, are drought tolerant and do not need rich soil. Typically, there is no maintenance once established.

ORNAMENTAL GRASSES WE CARRY:

For years we have carried many cultivars of miscanthus, panicum & Pennisetum

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MISCANTHUS

Miscanthus sinensis (Maiden Grass): Miscanthus sinensis is the genus and species. Cosmopolitan, Morning light, Gracillimus, Adagio and Purpurescens are all cultivars of Miscanthus sinensis. We have a wonderful selection of Miscanthus. It is a low maintenance, deer resistant, ornamental grass commonly planted in groups along a border, for privacy screening, along edges of beds and are excellent for container planting. It has silvery-green foliage that turns golden-bronze in autumn and has spectacular plumes in late summer. The plumes on the Miscanthus dry beautifully for winter bouquets or effect in the late fall, early winter landscape. Late winter, with snow and rain pounding, it starts to fall apart. Maiden Grass thrives in full sun and may get 6 feet wide with a 10 foot spread.
- Miscanthus sinensis 'Morning Light' : Dense clusters of slender, green and white blades. Reddish tint on blades throughout winter. Great texture for beds and borders.
- Miscanthus sinensis 'Cosmopolitan' : Wide green and white strap like leaves with showy feathery plumes. In bloom, Cosmopolitan can get 8-10ft tall when it’s happy. It is upright and the foliage may appear a little pendulous when it’s in bloom because the plumes are so straight and tall. Full sun to light shade. Highly salt tolerant and prefers moist to well drained soils.
- Miscanthus sinensis 'Variegatus' : Beautiful, wide cream and green striped foliage. Grows to 5ft by mid-September with red-tinted blooms. Best in full sun. Great as a screen, backdrop or border plant.
- Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’: Upright structure with all green, narrow, finer foliage. When in bloom reaches 6 -8ft tall.
- Miscanthus sinensis ‘Adagio’: A dwarf maiden grass that reaches 3 - 4ft tall.
- Miscanthus sinensis ‘Purpurescens’: Turns flaming red in late fall and is really the only one to have good fall color.

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PANICUM

Panicum virgatum (Switch Grass): Easily grown in average, medium to wet soils in full sun to part shade. A clump-forming, warm season grass which typically grows 3' -6' tall. Bright green leaves occur up and down the stem, turning bright yellow in fall. Flowers in mid-summer with finely-textured, pink-tinged, branched panicles. The seed plumes stay through winter and are a good food source for birds.
- Panicum virgatum 'Cloud Nine' (Switchgrass)
  One of the tallest varieties. Large rose colored seed panicles envelop the upright bluish foliage. Seed panicles turn golden shades in fall. Ideal wildlife habitat providing shelter and food for songbirds.
- Panicum virgatum 'Shenandoah' (Red Switchgrass)
  Upright foliage becomes red tinted during the growing season, culminating in a dazzling red-leaved show in fall. Drought tolerant and easy to maintain.
- Panicum virgatum 'Heavy Metal' (Blue Switchgrass)
  Upright habit with metallic blue foliage. Pink-tinted, airy blooms appear in July, highlighting the color of its blue leaves. Great planted in masses.

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PENNISETUM

Pennisetum alopecuroides (Fountain Grass): A beautiful addition to your garden with its cascading foliage and nonstop drama. Pennisetum has finely textured foliage and an elegant form. Flowers in late summer, with showy white, pink, copper or black, bottle brush shaped spikes. In autumn the leaves turn orange-bronze. The leaves and flower spikes sway in the breeze adding movement to the landscape. The plumes make fabulous cut flowers. Fountain grass is easily grown in most soils and does best in full sun.
- Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Hameln'
  Features deep green leaves in summer changing to golden yellow in fall and fading to beige in late fall. Showy, silvery to pinkish-white, bristly, bottle brush-like flower spikes arch outward from the clump in late summer. Form 2-3' tall and wide compact clumps .
- Pennisetum alopecuroides 'Moudry'
  Black fountain grass. 'Moudry' provides excellent texture, color and contrast to borders, foundations and open areas. It is most noted for its distinctive black flower spikes. Grows 2-3' tall and wide. The plumes are great cut flowers.

Pennisetum Moudry: Black fountain grass blooms in late summer.

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We ALSO carry a variety of cultivars and species in addition to our long standing grasses:

Calamagrostis acutiflora (Feather Reed Grass): For years we only carried Karl Foerster, now we carry a variety of Feather Reed Grasses
- Karl Foerster Feather Reed Grass
- 'Overdam' Feather Reed Grass
- Calamagrostis brachytricha (Korean Feather Reed Grass): Another very beautiful species of Feather Reed Grass
Phalaris arundinacea (Ribbon grass)
- We especially like the cultivar Strawberries and Cream for its pink tones on the foliage.
Carex: This is actually a sedge and not a grass but grasses, sedges and rushes have always been grouped together and we will continue this tradition. We carry several cultivars of Carex.
- Carex ‘Ice Dance” (Japanese Sedge): Chuck’s favorite
- Carex plantaginea: Andrew loves this cultivar
- Carex comans ‘Bronze’: Chris loves this cultivar with its reddish hues in fall.
- Carex buchananii 'Red Rooster': Chris also loves Red Rooster which is tall and upright.
Chasmanthium latifolius (Northern Sea Oats): Has the prettiest seed pod.
Hackonechloa grasses: They will take some shade and appear weeping with their pendulous habit.
- Hackonechloa macra (Hakone Grass): Green tones
- Hackonechloa macra ‘All Gold’: Yellow tones
- Hackonechloa macra ‘Aureola’: Variegated.
Schitzachyrium scoparium (Little Blue Stem Grass): Honored with the perennial plant of the year award for 2022. ‘The Blues’ is a popular old cultivar and there are many new cultivars. All of them remain true to Little Bluestem’s legacy of drought tolerance, low maintenance and natural beauty. We see Little Bluestem as one of the hottest grasses in the trade. It brings high ecological value and a fresh look to modern landscapes. Many years ago Schitzachyrium was grouped together with Andropogon. It was determined to be different enough to make it its own genus.
- Schitzachyrium scoparium ‘The Blues’
- Schitzachyrium scoparium ‘Standing Ovation’
- Schitzachyrium scoparium ‘Blue Heaven’
Andropogon gerardii (Big Bluestem): We carry several Andropogon.
- Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks’: A dark foliage cultivar called Blackhawks is a favorite.
Sporobolis heterolepis (Prairie Dropseed): A native grass often used in restoration projects.
Sesleria autumnalis (Autumn Moor Grass): Sesleria is a European native often used in America as a ground cover. Sesleria autumnalis received the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit.
Festuca glauca and Helictotrichon sempervirens: We carry these grasses for their glaucous foliage. They are great along the border or in containers and like all grasses are low maintenance and drought tolerant once established.
Ophiopogons
- Ophiopogon planiscapus 'Nigrescens' (Black Mondo) A black grass
- Ophiopogon japonicus (Dwarf Mondo Grass) A dwarf version
Bouteloua gracilis: Our newest grass. A prairie native with unusual seed heads.

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Carex Red Rooster in ornamental planters

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We also carry a few ornamental grasses that will not overwinter In our zone 7 island.

Muhlenbergia capillaris touts to be Hardy to zone 5 but it will not overwinter for us. The pink plumes in the late afternoon are the prettiest thing you’ll ever see. We keep on trying it because it should be hardy!
Pennisetum Rubrum & Pennisetum Fireworks: Both have wonderful foliage color and are fabulous as ‘thrillers’ in pots.
Pennisetum Purple Majesty & Pennisetum Prince: We highlight these in the fall because they have a great fall effect with dark foliage and large plumes. However, they will not survive the island winters.

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perennial plant of the year

**Schitzachyrium scoparium**

[PLANT PROFILE] CRAPE MYRTLE

September 6, 2022 Karen Logan

Lagerstroemia

[CRAPE MYRTLE]

An all-season performer that shows off colorful foliage in fall, attractive exfoliating bark in winter and showy flowers in the summer! Crape Myrtle bloom from July to September, with some varieties blooming until first frost. Flowers have a crepe like texture and range in color from red, purple, pink, orchid and white. There are several varieties that range in size from 2-foot shrubby dwarfs to large trees.

Crape Myrtles’ showy flowers adds a punch of color in late summer & early fall.

Crape Myrtle (front), Rudbeckia & Hibiscus

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HISTORY

Better known by their common name of Crape Myrtle, Lagerstroemia is a genus of about 50 plants native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. The Genus is named after the director of the Swedish East India Company, Magnus van Lagerstrom, who supplied Carl Linnaeus with plants he collected.

Only 2 species are primarily used in gardening and landscape horticulture. The Lagerstroemia indica from China and Korea was introduced to Charleston, North Carolina in 1790 by French botanist Andre Michaux. In the wild it is a large multi stemmed shrub but 200 years of cultivation have resulted in a huge number of cultivars with varying characteristics.

Another species from Japan Lagerstroemia fauriei is becoming increasingly important as a landscape plant and as a parent in hybrids with L. Indica. This species is more resistant to fungal diseases, has highly ornamental bark and is more cold hardy than L. Indica making it valuable as genetic material for hybridization.

FALL IS A GREAT TIME TO PLANT. allowS CRAPE MYRTLE time to establish their roots before going dormant in winter.

CARE

Prefer full sun. The more sun the more blooms!
Once established, Crape Myrtles are quite drought tolerant.
They need good drainage.
A common mistake is over-pruning.
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USES
Crape myrtles make great additions to any size garden. Some ideas for how to use them:
Plant multiple dwarf or medium-size varieties together to form a hedge.
Use dwarf varieties as colorful additions in borders and beds.
Dwarf varieties make excellent choices for large containers.
A good choice near walkways and driveways.
Use larger varieties as an individual accent

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we have dwarf varieties available to add to your garden if you don’t have space for a larger speciman.

Crape Myrtle ‘Like a Latte’ [photo: walters gardens]

CRAPE MYRTLE VARIETIES WE HAVE AVAILABLE

Lagerstroemia 'Like A Latte' (Dwarf)

Lagerstroemia 'Barista Cherry Mocha' (Dwarf)

Lagerstroemia 'Tuscarora'

Lagerstroemia 'Tonto'

Lagerstroemia 'Muskogee'

Lagerstroemia 'Muskogee Lavender'

Lagerstroemia 'Natchez White'

Lagerstroemia 'Cherry Mocha' [photo: walters garden]

Crape Myrtle ‘Tuscarora’ [photo: monrovia]

Crape Myrtle ‘Muskogee’ [photo credit: monrovia]

[PLANT PROFILE] ANEMONE

September 1, 2022 Karen Logan

*Anemone [illustration by karen blackerby logan]*

JAPANESE ANEMONE

[WINDFLOWER]

A common name for Anemone is windflower because the delicate poppy-like flowers sway in the breeze. The Greek word anemos translates as "wind."

Japanese Anemones add a wonderful splash of color to the autumn garden when other perennials are beginning to fade. With one of the longest bloom times, they are a great season extender in a perennial garden. They spread when they are happy and can tolerate moist soils!

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CARE

Japanese Anemones are fabulous perennials that thrive ideally in a little afternoon shade. They can tolerate full sun as long as the soil is moist.
They prefer rich, moist soil. Water the plants regularly when it does not rain.
Bloom time: Mid-Summer to Late Fall 6-8 weeks

USES

Borders, cottage gardens, coastal gardens, naturalized areas such as meadows

White anemomes stand out nicely at night. White gardens are sometimes called moonlight gardens .where the white flowers light up at night.

Japanese Anemone and Impatiens balfourii [photo by keith kurman] *Anemones contain basal leaf clumps from which long flower stems grow to support delicate flowers.*

Japanese anemone bloom abundantly from mid-summer to late fall, giving gardeners a shade-loving alternative to the autumn mums and asters.

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JAPANESE ANEMONES WE CARRY AT VINEYARD GARDENS

Japanese Anemones are mostly hybrids. Some are taller than others, up to 3 feet. The more popular ones are single flowers but we often carry a pink double called Pamina. Next year we are ordering a white double called Whirlwind.

Wild Swan: White with a bluish tinge behind the petals
Honorine Jobert: White single flowers
September Charm: Pink single flowers
Robustissima: Pink single flowers
Bressingham Glow: Pink flowers
Pamina: Pink double flowers

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Japanese Anemone in their full glory and the bees taking it all in!

[PLANT PROFILE] CLERODENDRUM

August 1, 2022 Karen Logan

CLERODENDRUM TRICHOTOMUM

[HARLEQUIN GLORY-BOWER]

In mid-summer and fall Clerodendrum adds a striking show when other woody plants are not in bloom!

MID-SUMMER BLOOM

Clerodendrum trichotomum (Harlequin Glory-Bower) is the only Clerodendrum hardy this far north. A deer resistant, flowering, deciduous shrub that begins blooming mid-summer with fragrant soft white flowers. The flowers have a sweet delicate aroma and are large enough to make a statement. A great addition to a late season garden when many other shrubs are not in bloom.

FALL INTEREST

In the fall, Clerodendrum has a wonderful effect. The flowers turn into a very interesting seed pod, bright purplish-blue berries adorned by thick star-shaped red calyces. In addition, the foliage changes into a beautiful yellow fall color. A show stopper indeed!

Clerodendrum has large heart shaped leaves which produce a peanut odor when crushed.

attracts Hummingbirds, butterflies, honeybees & other pollinators!

WHERE TO PLANT

Clerodendrum is a large shrub that grows between 8-10’ tall.
Stands best alone because it takes over. Plant it where it has plenty of room to spread and colonize. It will spread as far as you let it but it can be controlled.
Full sun to part shade. Clerodendrum prefers full sun for best shape and flowering but can tolerate and flower in partial shade. In partial shade, it’s already loose habit will be even more open.

“Our Clerodendrum is blooming now and fills our entire patio with a sweet fragrance!” Chris Wiley, co-owner Vineyard Gardens

Clerodendrum trichotomum in the spring/early summer

[PLANT PROFILE] CALYCANTHUS

July 19, 2022 Karen Logan

CALYCANTHUS 'APHRODITE’

Calycanthus 'Aphrodite', a Proven Winners selection, is a cross between our native calycanthus and Asian species x Sinocalycanthus. It is a large shrub with glossy leaves that can grow between 5-10ft tall by 5-10ft wide. Calycanthus 'Aprodite' does well in full sun and can also handle partial shade.

FERTILIZING HYDRANGEAS

July 7, 2022 Karen Logan

Hydrangea [illustration by karen blackerby logan]

FERTILIZING HYDRANGEAS IN EARLY SUMMER

by Lorraine Ballato

July 5, 2022 / Fertilizing Hydrangeas, Hydrangea macrophylla (Bigleaf), Hydrangea serrata (Mountain)

I have spent the past 2 days fertilizing my hydrangeas. Which ones, you ask. Well, read on about Fertilizing Hydrangeas In Early Summer.

My experience is that all hydrangeas grow better when they are fertilized, even the native ones. It’s one of the lessons I learned from our Covid lockdown. I actually had the time to do this and, WOW! did it pay off.

WHY FEED YOUR PLANTS IN EARLY SUMMER

If you missed feeding your plants early in the season when you did your spring clean up, you can make up for that now. BTW, “now” in the northern hemisphere means before August 1. That’s because fertilizing will stimulate your plant and you don’t want to do that too late in the season.

The plants that respond best to fertilizer this time of year are the rebloomers: big leaf (macrophylla), mountain (serrata) and woodland/smooth (arborescens) varieties. You want to help them produce those reblooming flowers to carry your garden through to the end of the season.

HOW TO DETERMINE IF YOU HAVE A REBLOOMER

If you don’t know if your mountain or big leaf hydrangea is a rebloomer, look to see where the flowers are positioned. If they are coming from along the sides of the stems, you have rebloomer. It’s that simple.

**Reblooming hydrangea flowers along length of the stem**

FEEDING YOUR PLANTS

There are differing opinions on fertilizing your hydrangeas. I am firmly in the camp of helping hydrangeas thrive and have learned it is especially beneficial if your soil needs improvement. A soil test will help you figure that out. The results of fertilizing are more than encouraging and I am convinced this is a worthwhile practice.

THE REASONS TO FERTILIZE HYDRANGEAS IN EARLY SUMMER

Remember that on rebloomers, the more you cut the tips, the more flowers you will get along the stem for later season color. So your rebloomers will appreciate the extra nutrients to continue to put out new flowers. Deadheading and/or cutting flowers for bouquets also stimulate the plant to grow new stems for future flowers. So don’t be reluctant to do that and add beauty to your indoor spaces (office, kitchen, etc.).

Even if your plant is not a rebloomer, the mid-season fertilizer will help it set buds for next year later this season. It’s not rocket science.

FEEDING OTHER KINDS OF HYDRANGEAS

Feeding your other hydrangeas, although helpful, isn’t necessary. The old wood bloomers are all pretty self sufficient, unless you have an issue that needs to be remedied. Or you missed feeding them earlier this season.

**Panicle hydrangea used as companion plant for a stand of woodland hydrangeas**

THE BEST FERTILIZER FOR HYDRANGEAS

Rose food is ideal as is any granulated shrub fertilizer, either organic or a time release product. I don’t recommend products like 10-10-10. No plant uses nutrients in equal amounts so when you use 10-10-10, what you are doing is contributing to run-off and local pollution issues.

**Rose-tone Fertilizer Is very good for hydrangeas**

WATCH OUT FOR TICKS

Fertilizing hydrangeas forces you to get down at the ground level, sometimes crawling beneath your plant. That action may disturb ticks that then light on you. Whenever I do this early summer fertilizing, I always pick up several ticks. So do be aware and do a tick check regularly, especially after fertilizing.

PINCH PRUNING COMES NEXT

I’ll be back in a few days to discuss mid-season pinch-pruning, maybe topping your plant, and using those cuttings to propagate new plants. The fun is just beginning!

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Check out hydrangea specialist, Lorraine Ballato’s insightful website packed with excellent information on all things hydrangea!

SUCCESS WITH HYDRANGEAS

book by lorraine ballato

HYDRANGEA LOVERS

facts about hydrangeas

[PLANT PROFILE] HEUCHERA

June 30, 2022 Karen Logan

HEUCHERA

(CORAL BELLS)

Foliage Stars of the Shade Garden

When it comes to perennials that combine long-lasting beauty, versatility, and ecological benefits, few plants rival Heuchera, commonly known as Coral Bells. These North American natives are prized for their dazzling foliage and delicate blooms, making them a favorite in shade gardens, woodland edges, and even containers.

Not Just Pretty Leaves

While many gardeners love Heucheras for their richly colored leaves, from lime green to burgundy and even dark purple, their graceful flowers are not to be overlooked. Each summer, tall flower stalks rise above the foliage, blooming for 3-4 weeks with airy, bell-shaped flowers that attract hummingbirds. The flowers of Heuchera sanguinea give the plant its common name, Coral Bells, with vivid cerise blooms native to warm, dry canyons in Mexico, Arizona, and New Mexico.

A Foliage Powerhouse

Heucheras are truly standout foliage plants. Their rosettes of textured leaves stick around from early spring through late fall, and some cultivars are even semi-evergreen in mild climates. With a low, mounding habit, most varieties reach 8–12 inches in height and 1–2 feet in spread, while the flower spikes add height, 1-3 feet, during bloom.

There has been an explosion of Heucheras cultivars in the last decade. Hybridization is common, due to the fact that the species often intergrade with one another. The increasingly popular Heucherellas (Heuchera × Tiarella) combine the best traits of both parent plants.

Try planting ground covers instead of mulching. They are just as effective, if not more so, at keeping out the weeds!

Heuchera americana ‘Dales Strain’, the one we do from seed.

Where & How to Plant

Light:

Most Heucheras thrive in partial shade or dappled sunlight, but many red and yellow-leafed varieties tolerate more sun.
In the Mid-Atlantic and Northeast, shade is usually best for optimal performance.

Soil & Water:

Plant in well-drained, compost-rich soil. Keep consistently moist, especially in containers.
Heucheras are ideal for woodland gardens, rock gardens, slopes, and as ground covers beneath trees and shrubs.

Heucheras are DEER REISISTANT!

Design Pairings & Garden Uses

Heucheras are beautiful alone but shine even more when paired with other foliage-rich or shade-loving perennials:

Great companions: Ferns, caladiums, hostas, bleeding hearts, iris, astilbe
Ideal uses: Mass plantings, underplanting for trees and shrubs, borders, container gardens, and ground cover alternatives to mulch
Tip: Consider replacing traditional mulch with ground covers like Heuchera. Not only are they effective at suppressing weeds, they add beauty and habitat too.

Our Favorites

Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’: A native cultivar with large green leaves and tall white blooms. Especially striking when planted in mass and blends beautifully with other plants.
Heuchera americana ‘Dale’s Strain’: One of several we grow from seed. It’s a reliable, low-maintenance ground cover under shrubs.

There are 37 species of Heuchera and dozens of cultivars now available, the diversity of Heucheras is greater than ever. Their ability to hybridize easily has led to a stunning array of colors and leaf textures, so whether you're designing a native garden or adding structure to your shaded beds, Coral Bells deliver beauty that lasts well beyond their bloom.

Looking to add more color and habitat to your garden? Visit our nursery to explore our vast array of Heuchera and discover the perfect variety for your landscape.

BIENNIALS

May 12, 2022 Karen Logan

BIENNIALS

by keith kurman

GARDENERS and POETS

After strolling through our display gardens at Vineyard Gardens Nursery a couple years ago, a famous landscape architect remarked at how magical and elusive the biennials were. This is a particularly encouraging thing to hear, not that we weren’t already aware of how beautiful they were, but that our diligence was rewarded by someone noticing the skill required to achieve the effect.

An important part of gardening is weeding and there are two axioms gardeners use all the time,

“A weed is a plant growing in the wrong place.”

“One man’s weed is another man’s wildflower.”

With this in mind, it is important to attend to the needs of a particular garden. It can be difficult early in the season to distinguish which seedlings are weeds and which are plants you want in your garden. This is true of both biennials and annuals. We’re not talking about annuals here so lets stick with the biennials.

Here, Papaver somniferum (Opium Poppy) 'Lauren's Grape' in the early Spring garden. They need to be thinned to thrive.

Hard to tell the difference between the Impatiens balfourii and Impatiens pallida (our native Jewelweed) seedlings here, but one or the other has to go! The more pointed and sharply serrated leaf is I. balfourii and the more rounded, scalloped leaf,… — Hard to tell the difference between the Impatiens balfourii and Impatiens pallida (our native Jewelweed) seedlings here, but one or the other has to go! The more pointed and sharply serrated leaf is I. balfourii and the more rounded, scalloped leaf, I. pallida. I would loose the Jewelweed in this case.

Weeding and thinning, the stock in trade of a gardener. Here the little Poppy seedlings (Papaver rhoeas) are far too dense and need to be majorly thinned. At this stage the seedlings can be carefully redistributed around the garden.

Luckily, biennial seeds tend to germinate in warmer weather, in late June and July. They also germinate readily from fresh, current season seed. So you have to be particularly vigilant when weeding the garden from July to September so as not to weed out the first year cycle of what will be next year’s magic. If you are thinking in these terms then you can have biennials flowering every year, not every other year as you might expect. The difference being that they are just not the same plant as the year before but their progeny. It seems like a simple enough proposition but that hop-scotching of years is much of what makes biennials so challenging but also so rewarding, unexpected and magical. To further complicate the issue, some biennials will carry over into a third year. They will however be not so vigorous and can carry over with them diseases and pests that can spread to your fresh stock. Once they have gotten to this point it is better to remove them, however hard it might be to toss them on the compost pile.

A hollyhock

shot up to meet

the summer solstice

(Masaoka Shiki)

Impatiens balfourii, a house favorite. A reseeding annual, its most effective when densly colonizing shady pockets of the garden. Discerning the seedlings from similar-looking weeds is critical to retaining them in the garden.

A Foxglove in its second year presenting a spectacular spike of flowers. I love the scalloped lip of the petals on this wildling.

MYSTERIOUS, LIKE MAGIC

Biennials are by nature herbaceous flowering plants. That may seem obvious but those flowers are what we are going for to achieve the effect. For clarity let’s review the difference between the growth habits of the plants in our flower gardens.

Annuals have the shortest life cycle. Their seed germinates in the Spring, they then rush to develop leaves, roots, flowers and seed in one short growing season before dying at the first frost. Annuals are determined to set seed in their first year so they are well suited as cut flowers because if you keep cutting the flowers off the plant it will continue to produce them until they manage to set seed. If those seeds are left on the plant or collected, saved and sown the following year, will produce an annual crop of flowers. Typical examples might be, Poppies, Cosmos, Zinnias, Impatiens or Petunias.

Perennials can be a confusing group but the axiom associated with them goes,

“Perennials are plants that, had they lived, would come back year after year.”

There is wisdom in this simple statement. Hardiness, growing conditions and pests can all challenge our best efforts to keep perennials going year after year in the garden. That said, we can best describe perennials as, flowering plants that retain a dormant crown and root system below ground through the winter, producing leaves and flowers every successive year. Perennials will usually multiply at the crown and/or by lateral roots, thus the need to periodically lift and divide them to keep them fresh and healthy in the garden. Examples of classic perennials might be Iris, Peonies, Phlox, Hostas and Astilbe, honestly far too many to list!

So you can see how biennials fall somewhere between these two groups. The great garden writer, William Robinson, in his seminal book from around 1890, “The English Flower Garden”, says, “…the line between biennial and annual is not a strict one… as the work of raising all is, to a great extent, the same.” Well, that’s easy for him to say, he was gardening in England which we know has a milder climate and sweeter soils than we do here, blurring the lines between all the flowering plants.

Quite simply, Biennials produce in their first year leaf and root and in their second year flower and seed. There are characteristics of both Annuals and Perennials within Biennials carrying with them the same caveats, that hardiness, growing conditions and pests can conspire to frustrate our best intentions. For biennials you could add to this list, over zealous weeders. Some of the most outstanding examples being, Foxglove, Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Campanula and Verbascum also known as Mullein.

The frosted, metalic foliage of Verbascum thapsus, the biennial, Giant Mullein. This is the plant in its second year preparing to bolt. The brilliant yellow flowers will appear along the length of its nearly 7' stalks. A dramatic, sculptural element… — The frosted, metalic foliage of Verbascum thapsus, the biennial, Giant Mullein. This is the plant in its second year preparing to bolt. The brilliant yellow flowers will appear along the length of its nearly 7' stalks. A dramatic, sculptural element in the field or garden.

Perfectly representitive of the habit of a biennial, Catanache caerulia (Cupids Dart) at mid-summer.

Biennials are actually much more common than you might think, just over in the vegetable garden. The colorful, showy flowers of foxglove, hollyhock and verbascum are close relatives of some of our most common food crops. The parsley’s, mustards, cabbages and carrots are all biennials! It’s just that we aren’t growing them so much for their flowers as we are for their first year leaves and/or root systems e.g.radishes, carrots etc. We’ve all seen our parsley overwinter then with the advent of Spring ‘bolt’ to flowering at which point they become tough and bitter. So we start them every year fresh and harvest them for their first year’s foliar bounty. A second year carrot is a tough and tasteless thing but it is producing a flower of sorts, just not as beautiful as say, its more ornamental cousin, Queen Ann’s Lace.

Now we are really getting into the “weeds”! Some of our favorite biennials for early-mid summer flowers like Money Plant, with its silver dollar-like seedpods in late summer, Lunaria annua, is part of the group that also represents Dame’s Rocket, Hesperis matronalis and Wallflower (Cheiranthus) all of which are in the Mustard family and are often considered weeds due to their tendency for prodigious re-seeding. Queen Ann’s Lace, Daucus carota, from the carrot family, is also considered a weed but they are so lovely growing along the roadside usually together with its associate, Chickory, Cichorium intybus, with its clear, cerulean blue flowers. Both biennials, Chickory and Queen Ann’s Lace are hardy, naturalized exotics not generally considered garden worthy. But this takes us in another direction…

Lunaria annua a radient, reseeding biennial. Weed or wildflower? you choose. These flowers mature into those silver dollar seedpods we love so much in late summer arrangements.

Lupines are properly biennials and put on their best show when left over the Winter in the garden, but these have been started early enough to be flowering size this season.

Digitalis purpurea 'Cream'. The foxgloves, magical faerie plants with notions for potions. These plants didn't overwinter in this position, they were brought in containerized, planted out early in the season, but even at that, they didn't have the f… — Digitalis purpurea 'Cream'. The foxgloves, magical faerie plants with notions for potions. These plants didn't overwinter in this position, they were brought in containerized, planted out early in the season, but even at that, they didn't have the fall-winter cycle 'in the ground' to develop a strong root system.

THE SOUL OF THE GARDEN

Where to ‘place’ biennials in the garden can be challenging. The problem being their two stage growth. In the first year while they’re developing their deep root system, the basil foliage stays tight and low to the ground. Then in their second year they produce a fresh batch of foliage before ‘rocketing’ their flowering stalks up several feet above the base. Left on their own they will often choose the most inappropriate spots, coming up in the crown of your Peonies, in the stonework of your retaining wall or crowding around in the front row. Striking a balance between random and orderly should be our objective. This is easier when planting out starts, but only a little more work when dealing with self-sown seedlings. The seedlings will tend to appear in clumps in the general vicinity of the parent plants. You’ll be able to recognize them once they’ve formed their ‘true leaves’ and at this point they are ready to be thinned and transplanted. Thinning will enable the young plants to to develop into larger, stronger plants and provide dozens more for transplanting. Whether in the flower garden or out on the margins it is often the rouge by the stairs or under the Viburnum, the unexpected, that brings the most charming effect.

This year at Vineyard Gardens we’re going to try and help you get going with introducing biennials into your gardens. We will be starting a fine selection of some of the best varieties later in the season than we usually do. In order to offer smaller, healthier plants at the right time for planting out we’ll be starting the seed in late June making them available during mid to late Summer. We will also be producing a number of rare, exceptional perennials at this time. We hope that you’ll plan on selecting and planting out several varieties during that late season window, basically mid-late July through September. We’re lucky here on the island to have a long Autumn growing season that will allow a good couple of months of growth from a September planting out.

It’s never too early to start planning, so here’s looking forward to seeing you at the Nursery! We may be doing one of our Saturday talks this summer on biennials, let us know if you would be interested!

Alcea ficifolia or Antwerp Hollyhock is a species of Hollyhock that appears in a pleasant range of colors and is generally stronger growing and rust resistant plant. Getting them established in the ground through the fall will give yo… — Alcea ficifolia or Antwerp Hollyhock is a species of Hollyhock that appears in a pleasant range of colors and is generally stronger growing and rust resistant plant. Getting them established in the ground through the fall will give you stronger bigger plants than a Spring planting.

The biennial seeding cycle; Foxgloves, Verbascums, Hollyhocks and select perennials are coming along. Watch for them appearing for sale at the nursery ready for planting out later in July through September.

The exquisite Verbascum phoeniceum ‘Violetta’ will keep an evergreen basil rosette over the Winter and spike to flower in the early summer. After that it should reseed and grace your garden for years to come. — The exquisite Verbascum phoeniceum ‘Violetta’ will keep an evergreen basil rosette over the Winter and spike to flower in the early summer. After that it should reseed and grace your garden for years to come.

[PLANT PROFILE] SWEET WOODRUFF

May 11, 2022 Karen Logan

SWEET WOODRUFF

(Galium odoratum)

Sweet Woodruff is a lovely plant that will spread like a ground cover in your garden. It has small white flowers in spring through early summer. It’s vigorous but not aggressive and can coexist nicely with bulbs that will come right up through it. They spread stoloniferously by sending out stolons or side shoots just beneath the soil surface.

WHERE TO PLANT SWEET WOODRUFF

An ideal ground cover. Plant as a ground cover around shrubs.
A wonderful border accent in woodland gardens.
It thrives in rich garden soil, in part to full shade.

OTHER GROUNDCOVERS

Other ground covers that do well in shade include the more common evergreen pachysandra and Vinca minor, Periwinkle.
Pachysandra: We carry the Japanese spurge, pachysandra terminalis. Our favorite is the native one, Pachysandra procumbens.
Vinca: We carry Vinca minor Bowles, with the early summer blooming blue flowers and the white flowering Vinca minor. We also carry Illumination, a vinca cultivar with yellow variegated foliage and a blue flower.
Epimedium, barrenwort: Another less common groundcover that thrives in shade is Epimedium. Epimedium Spine Tingler is a cultivar that is available now. This year we also have Frohnleiten, Rubrum, Sulphureum, Niveum, Pink Champagne, Domino and Amber Queen, which won the RHA (Royal Horticultural Award) of Merit.
Ferns: Ferns can spread nicely like ground covers such as Matteuca struthiopteris (the Ostrich fern), Dennstaedtia punctiloba (Hay Scented Fern) and Onoclea sensibilis. Dennstaedtia punctiloba and Onoclea sensibilis are both hard to find. We don’t have either in stock right now.
Geum: The native Geum has been mentioned as a good ground cover. Geum triflorum has beautiful seed pods.
Thyme: Creeping and wooly thymes are ground covers we like to recommend for sun. Creeping thyme comes in white flowers (albiflorus), red flowers (coccineus) or pink chintz with pink flowers. We also carry creeping lemon and Elfin thyme.
Laurentia fluviatilis, Blue Star Creeper and Pratia: Two other interesting plants that spread like ground covers.
And there are plenty more!

Try planting ground covers at the base of your shrubs instead of mulching. Ground covers are very effective at keeping weeds out!

Perennial Herbs

May 6, 2022 Karen Logan

Herbs are a perfect addition to your garden! They are extremely easy to grow and come back year after year. You can harvest them for your meals, drinks, medicinal purposes, aromatherapy, in addition many have gorgeous blooms! What's not to love about planting herbs!

THYME
Thymus vulgaris and it's many cultivars

English thyme is probably the most famous edible thyme with lemon thyme being a close second.
Creeping thyme is purely ornamental and comes in red, white, pink chintz and wooly. Wooly thyme can get 2-3 ft wide and grows beautifully over flat patio stones. Given good drainage and full sun, creeping thyme grows like ground cover. Plant these in the cracks of your patio and watch them grow.
- Other creeping thymes include Creeping Lemon Thyme, Caraway Thyme and Elfin Thyme, a slow growing beauty. All great in rock gardens. Need full sun and well drained soil.
Golden Thyme: We carry Archers gold, Golden Lemon and Golden variegated and other variegated thymes like Silver Thyme.
We always like to try a few new ones. This year we have Tansparent Yellow Thyme, Magic Carpet Thyme and Lime Green Thyme.

SAGE
The green sages are more for culinary purposes and the others are more ornamental in your garden. A sprig of sage is a very nice garnish for a special meal.

Salvia oficinalis is a wonderful perennial culinary herb. The straight species is a great plant that produces beautiful blue salvia flowers and is quite ornamental.
Berggarten Sage is a green cultivar we carry.
Purple Sage
Tricolor Sage
Pineapple sage and Golden Pineapple sage grow into tall 5-6 ft plants that produce large racemes of red flowers in late summer. Plant them early in the season to get them to full size before they bloom. The foliage really does smell like pineapple.

TARRAGON
Tarragon Artemesia dracunculus is a perennial culinary herb that tastes a little like anise or has licorice like flavors. It is a staple in French cuisine and is often referred to as French tarragon.

MINT
Mints are also perennial herbs. They are best grown in the pot because they spread voraciously and can be difficult to eliminate from a garden once it’s established. Mints are used in cooking and in making teas and cocktails, like mojitos. All mints grow best in full sun and a well drained soil.

Peppermint and spearmint are the two most popular mints.
- Mojito mint, a spearmint
- Kentucky Colonel spearmint our favorite for many years
- Chocolate mint, a type of peppermint,
- Corsican mint has tiny tiny leaves and is great in cracks in patios. It is not aggressive like the other mints, in fact this one is more challenging to grow.

We carry several more ornamental variegated mints that look great mixed with annuals in pots!

SPRING FLOWERING SHRUBS

April 30, 2022 Karen Logan

Lilac illustration by karen blackerby logan

Spring Flowering Shrubs

LILACS

We have a great selection of lilacs starting to bloom now! .

Canadian Lilac, Syringa vulgaris Pocahontas: The species of the purple lilac, Syringa vulgaris, is said to be the most fragrant (but they are really all fragrant). Extend the lilac season with this extremely hardy, early blooming variety. Deep maroon-purple buds open in early May to fragrant, deep violet blooms 7 to 10 days before common lilac varieties bloom. Reaches 10 ft. tall and wide.
Korean Lilac, Syringa patula Miss Kim: Try a Miss Kim Lilac if you need one that stays a little smaller. This upright, compact lilac blooms later than others, extending the season with deep purple buds that reveal clusters of highly fragrant, lavender-blue flowers. Foliage is burgundy-tinged in fall. Reaches 6 to 8 ft. tall and wide
Charles Joly, Syringa vulgaris: This is a great choice if you want a larger lilac,10-12ft tall. Gorgeous, deep wine red, double flower clusters are highly fragrant. Blooms mid-season, typically in mid-May. A lovely spring accent, screen or border specimen.
Sensation, Syringa vulgaris: A bicolor purple and white flowering lilac. A mid-season bloomer that typically flowers in mid-May. Branches are erect and open with rich green foliage. Use to create a beautiful spring flowering hedge, screen, or accent.
Dwarf Korean Lilac, Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’: This is another species of lilac that we carry which stays much smaller. This one has smaller leaves and smaller purple blooms that are also fragrant. Blooms profusely in midseason, typically mid-May, and first flowers at an early age. Use in shrub borders with an evergreen background or plant in groups to form a low hedge.
We also carry white French Lilacs

Plant your lilacs in full sun, well drained, rich soil and you will have fresh lilac bouquets every spring!

Honeysuckle

SHRUBS

One of my favorite spring flowering shrubs is the fragrant honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima. It is extremely fragrant, long blooming and comes back bigger and better year after year. This early bloomer fills my whole yard with perfume every spring. It does best in full sun but will do fine in partial shade.

VINES

This year we have 3 varieties of fragrant honeysuckle vines.

Mandarin, Lonicera x 'Mandarin': “Delightful, tubular, mandarin orange flowers with pale orange interiors on this vigorous vine with a twining habit that will quickly cloak shade arbors, old trees, and woven wire fences. Drape over walls or let it sprawl across the rooftop for cottage garden charm.” (monrovia)
Major Wheeler, Lonicera sempervirens: “Blazing red and gold blooms appear all summer long, and into fall. Stems are often red to purple turning greenish brown with age. A vigorous, fast growing vine, perfect for covering a fence post, arbor or trellis. This excellent selection thrives in high humidity and is mildew-free.” (monrovia)
Goldflame, Lonicera x heckrottii: “An excellent vine to use as a cover for trellis, arbor and fencing. Also works well when pruned to form a dense shrub-like shape. Purple to deep pink buds open to sweetly fragrant, golden yellow, tubular flowers throughout summer.” (monrovia)

Hummingbirds love them!

Rhododendrons

This year our spring flowering shrubs include the usual evergreen rhododendrons, as well as deciduous azaleas which are in the rhododendron family. They are shallow rooted plants that grow as an understory in the woodlands, like in the Blue Ridge Mountains. They are also found in various parts of Asia, like China and Nepal. They grow in high elevations because they like it cool.

Rhododendron cawtabiense, also called cawtaba rhododendrons:

Roseum Elegans: Medium sized broadleaf evergreen shrub that reaches 9-12’ tall and wide. Beautiful rose-lilac colored flowers. Best along a woodland border.
Grandiflorum Catawba: (Native)The Catawba evergreen rhody reaches 6-8’ ft tall & wide and has lilac-purple, trumpet-shaped flowers. It is beautiful planted in a grouping, as an informal hedge or a mixed or woodland border. They are in bud now!
Chinoides Rhododendrons: A smaller rhody that gets to about 4’ with white bell shaped flowers. Outstanding for use as an informal hedge or foundation plant.
Cunningham’s White: A smaller rhody that gets to about 4’. It’s a perfect middle-of-the-border flowering shrub. A natural under oaks and older coniferous trees. Also perfect in the woodland understory and in wild gardens.

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Rhododendron maximum : (Native) A large broadleaf evergreen reaching up to 15ft by 12ft wide. They prefer to grow in cool, moist spots with well drained soil, part shade to full shade. They have dense, large leathery leaves with rose-purplish to pink to white blooms. They are in bud now!

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Hybrids developed by Weston Nurseries.

PJM: A durable rhody that tolerates heat as well as cold. An excellent choice for borders, mass plantings, or containers. PJM’s are smaller leafed rhodies with bright laveder purple blooms, developed at Weston Nurseries. They are blooming now!
Olga Mezzit: A compact smaller leaf evergreen, developed at Weston Nurseries. More heat and sun tolerant than other varieties. An excellent choice for borders, mass planting, or containers. They are blooming now!

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Many of the deciduous azaleas are native, including viscosum and its hybrids.

Rhododendron viscosum: (Native) Native to Martha’s Vineyard! Gorgeous and fragrant.

They need to be watered often when newly planted!
Rhododendrons benefit from an application of mulch to keep moisture in the soil for their shallow roots.

SMALL FRUITS & FRUIT TREES

April 13, 2022 Karen Logan

Blueberry Bush illustration by karen blackerby logan

SMALL FRUITS & FRUIT TREES

Spring is the best time to prune your fruit trees, grapes, raspberries and blackberries! It is also the best time to plant small fruits and fruit trees!

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CHECK OUT OUR PAST BLOG: Bare Root Strawberries & Growing Early Spring Edibles

IN STOCK AT VINEYARD GARDENS:

Bare root strawberries just came in
Strawberries
Raspberries & golden raspberries
Blackberries
Blueberries
Fruit trees (many kinds)

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STRAWBERRIES

Spring is the season to plant strawberries. There is a small window of time to plant them, especially bare root ones. Strawberries can be grown in garden beds, containers or hanging baskets. Strawberry flowers attract honeybees and butterflies who pollinate the flowers and ensure fruiting success. This year we are carrying 4 potted varieties, 3 bare root varieties plus the alpine strawberries Fragaria vesca.

Our bare root strawberries just came in yesterday! The bare root varieties are Sure Crop, Cardinal and Ozark Beauty. Sure Crop and Cardinal are June bearing and Ozark Beauty variety is an Everbearing.
Planting Bare Root Strawberries
- Bare root strawberries come in bundles of 15.
- Gently pull them apart, pulling on the foliage to separate them
- Then plant them into rich well drained soil and watch them grow
The 3” potted strawberries we have are the June bearing Honeoye variety and for the everbearing strawberries we have the All Star, Ft. Laramie and Quinalt varieties. Honeoye bears heavy yields of large fruit with a rich color.
Growing Strawberries
- Provide well drained soil with medium moisture. Amend beds in spring and fall with quality Coast of Maine Lobster Compost or Fafard Premium Compost (we carry both!).
- Strawberries are heavy feeders- feed with organic fertilizer from spring to mid summer.
- Mulch beds to retain moisture, keep down the weeds and to create a nice clean place for the strawberry fruits to lay on.
- Thin beds every few years, favoring the strongest runners.

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BLUEBERRIES

We have a wonderful selection of early, mid season and late variety Blueberries. Now is the time to get them in the ground!

This year, for the first time ever, we brought in some bare root blueberries. We have 2 cultivars available bare root, Jersey and Northland.
For blueberries, we recommend planting an early bearing variety, a mid season variety and a late season variety to extend your blueberry picking season.
Blueberries must be planted in early spring!!

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GRAPES, PEACHES & FRUIT TREES

GRAPES: Grapes should be pruned as soon as possible on cool days. If pruned much later they will “bleed” sap, much like a maple tree when its tapped for making maple syrup. Pruning for grapes and most fruit trees involves limiting the number of fruits produced as the tree or vine will try to make many more fruits than the tree has the energy to fully mature. Often excess fruits will fall off and the ones remaining may be smaller than on a tree properly pruned. This is also the best time to plant grapes!

PEACHES: One of the most important sprays for peaches is a lime sulfur mixture to prevent peach leaf curl, a very common disease of peaches. As the name describes, the leaves turn red, bumpy, curl up and then most of the leaves fall off weakening the tree just when it needs the most energy to produce fruit. This is an organic spray and should be done before the leaves begin to emerge.
FRUIT TREES: We carry apple, pear, cherry, peach and plum trees .Spring is the great time to plant them!
- Pruning apple trees: When you are done pruning an apple tree there is usually more on the ground then left on the tree.

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EAT LOCAL, GROW IT IN YOUR OWN BACKYARD

March 20, 2022 Karen Logan

Strawberry illustration by karen blackerby logan

GROWING EARLY SPRING EDIBLES

STRAWBERRIES

TIPS FOR PLANTING STRAWBERRIES

The most economical way for planting strawberries is bare root. They are only available early and must be planted in the ground right away.
Prepare your strawberry garden area by tilling or turning over the soil.
Add organic matter, such as cow manure, compost or the Fafard Complete Planting Mix.
Turn that into the soil.
Plant out the strawberry plants. Straight rows would be typical but you can be creative and turn it into an herb garden with a strawberry patch.

This year we are carrying 4 cultivars of strawberries
We like the June bearing over the Everbearing. The June bearing have bigger berries, although a shorter season.
Honeoye is our favorite, but all of them are good.
Fort Laramie
All Star
Quinalt
We also grow the fraise de bois or wild strawberries, find them under Fragaria vesca, its proper Genus and species name.
These are my choice for an herb garden. They also do well in containers. They bloom with beautiful little white flowers (in the rose family) .The pot with multiple openings is called a strawberry jar. I love when we carry these!
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BERRIES

We have a great selection of raspberries, blackberries, blueberries. The early spring selection is best!

All these should be planted very soon!

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ASPARAGUS

Now available bare root in bundles of 10. We have Jersey Knight and Purple Passion.

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GREENS & COOL WEATHER VEGGIES

Grow your own Greens

Salad material, lettuce, spinach, endive, mignonette

The lettuces and the cilantro, in particular, can be done by direct seeding in Mid April.

Start the other herbs and cool weather veggies inside first and then plant out as seedlings.

WE GROW ALL THESE IN PACKS FROM SEED . WE HAVE A WONDERFUL SELECTION OF SEEDS & WILL HAVE A GREAT VARIETY OF PACK SELECTIONS!

COOL WEATHER VEGGIES

Brassicas (like broccoli), Cauliflower, Cabbage, Kale, Swiss Chard, Mustards, Collards

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Vineyard Gardens Herb House and Herb Garden

HERBS

NOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT SOME HERBS! COME CHECK OUT OUR HERB HOUSE & HERB GARDEN!

ANNUAL HERBS: Cilantro, Parsley, Dill, Chervil, Lemon Grass, Lemon Verbena and Rosemary
PERENNIAL HERBS: Thyme. Sage, Mint, Tarragon, Savory and Lemon Balm

TIMING IS KEY IN GARDENING! DON’T WAIT TO GET STARTED!

WHY TO TEST SOIL & THE IMPORTANCE OF A PH TEST

May 4, 2021 Karen Logan

“It is always a good idea to test the soil for your lawns, flowers, vegetable gardens and almost anything you’re trying to grow!” Chuck Wiley, co-owner of Vineyard Gardens

Soil samples can be sent to the University of Massachusetts. The test will tell you what is in your soil, the amount and then what to add. This can save you money and most importantly protect our environment by not overusing fertilizer.

Fertilizer bags have three numbers showing the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the bag. A bag labeled 5-10-5 is 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 5% potassium.

Nitrogen is the element usually most needed to be added for plant health, as it is either used up by plants or can be leached out of the soil with rain and irrigation.
Phosphorous and potassium once added are more stable in the soil and usually only need to be added every two or three years.

These three nutrients are in most of the garden and lawn fertilizers we sell. We sell several lawn fertilizers with a 0 middle number, meaning no phosphorus, because that nutrient can cause problems with our ponds by encouraging algae blooms.

Step 1: Lawn Fertilizer 20-0-3 (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium).

Step 2: Lawn Fertilizer 21-0-3 (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium).

Vegetable Fertilizer 3-4-4 (Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potassium)

Organic fertilizers are slow release and also add some organic matter to the soil. Lawn fertilizers, like Jonathan Green Green-up 20-0-3, often have a higher first number as nitrogen is what causes them to be darker green, faster growing and healthier. Most vegetables like a lower first number Espoma Organic Garden-tone 3-4-4 to encourage fruiting like tomatoes and squash.

Now is the last chance this season to apply Jonathan Green Green-Up Crabgrass Preventer before moving onto step 2 Jonathan Green Green-Up Weed and Feed**!

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schedule us for your next project!

THE IMPORTANCE OF A pH TEST

A pH test tells us how acidic or alkaline our soils are

Numbers under 7 are acidic
Numbers over 7 are basic or alkaline

When soils are at or near neutral most nutrients are more easily taken up by plants and at the high range of acid or basic some nutrients are unavailable to plants even if they are in the soil. Our soils tend to be acidic which is good for blueberries, most evergreens , potatoes and Blue Mop head Hydrangeas, which are our traditional August flowering hydrangeas and Nikko Blue and Endless summer being the most popular. The reason for wanting low pH for the hydrangeas is this causes the flowers to be bluer. High pH turns them pinker and neutral pH gives them a color between the two. This is the only plant I know that the flower color is affected by the pH which allows aluminum in the soil to be more readily taken up at lower ph.

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If you want bluer flowers add sulfur or aluminum sulfate, ideally mixed into the soil when planting. You can add these materials to existing plants but it will take longer for them to have an effect on the color. If you want pink flowers, add lime to the soil. Most vegetables like a neutral soil, with the exception of potatoes which are more prone to a particular disease at higher pH. I like to keep a special area in the garden for them that I don't lime. Lawns like the pH to be close to neutral so light yearly liming is recommend here.

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ORGANIC COMPOST, MULCH & LOAM IN BULK

March 18, 2021 Karen Logan

We get many questions about our bulk materials at Vineyard Gardens and thought it would be pertinent to bring all the information together in one place.

Good soil is critical to successful gardening. What we see above ground is really only half the picture. If a plant's leaves are turning yellow or if pests are suddenly present you can bet there’s a problem with the soil.

One of the most important ingredients in soil is its organic content. It is the organic matter that, in the process of breaking down, enable the roots to access moisture and nutrients. The organic matter acts like sticky spots for nutrients to stick to making them available to the roots instead of leaching away. Then every year it is wise to build up the organic content of the soil to keep plants growing and healthy.

For a finished look and to retain moisture we recommend mulches. They are larger chunks of shredded bark that help retain moisture in the soil and also prevent weed seeds from germinating. As the mulch slowly decomposes the micro organisms responsible for the decomposition rob the soil of essential nutrients as in nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium . We recommend you fertilize before mulching.

We have two groups of bulk materials; organically rich soil amendments and mulches. The main ingredient in our soil amendments is compost.

Click on this LINK for a handy calculator to help figure out how much of these materials you’ll need for your project. We are loading bulk materials 8am-3pm Monday through Friday and 8am-12pm on Saturday. There is no need to pre order bulk materials unless you want a delivery.

Gardener’s Choice,  $75/cu.yd.Gardener’s Choice is an organic leaf and yard compost. It has been heat treated to render it relatively weed free. It is the best choice for vegetable gardens but it is also ideal for top-dressing flower beds. &nbs… — **Gardener’s Choice, $75/cu.yd.**
**Gardener’s Choice** is an organic leaf and yard compost. It has been heat treated to render it relatively weed free. It is the best choice for vegetable gardens but it is also ideal for top-dressing flower beds.

Black Gold Compost, $65/cu.ydCompost is a heat treated Bio Solid compost. The heat-treating kills off most of the weed seed. This is a commercially produced material that has been thoroughly checked and approved for sale by our local Board of Health… — **Black Gold Compost, $65/cu.yd**
**Compost** is a heat treated Bio Solid compost. The heat-treating kills off most of the weed seed. This is a commercially produced material that has been thoroughly checked and approved for sale by our local Board of Health. It is an excellent choice as a soil amendment to bring up the organic content of our sandier Vineyard soils and to lighten heavy clay soil.

Vineyard Gardens Loam, $50/cu.ydVineyard Gardens Loam is our own leaf and yard debris compost. It is very much like a compost you would make at home so it could have any number of weed seeds in it. It has been turned over several times a year and be… — **Vineyard Gardens Loam,** $50/cu.yd
**Vineyard Gardens Loam** is our own leaf and yard debris compost. It is very much like a compost you would make at home so it could have any number of weed seeds in it. It has been turned over several times a year and been thoroughly sifted to remove large sticks and rocks. Its benefits are that it is high in organic content and is relatively inexpensive.

Vineyard Gardens Planting Mix, $80/cu.yd.Vineyard Gardens Planting Mix is our premium blend. It consists of:3 parts Compost; 2 parts Peat Moss; 1 part SandThis product is super versatile and useful. It can be used as an amendment when planting tree… — **Vineyard Gardens Planting Mix,** **$80/cu.yd.**
**Vineyard Gardens Planting Mix** is our premium blend. It consists of:
3 parts Compost; 2 parts Peat Moss; 1 part Sand
This product is super versatile and useful. It can be used as an amendment when planting trees and shrubs. It can be used to top-dress gardens that have particularly difficult components, like clay or sand. It can be lightened with perlite to use as a potting mix.

Pine Bark Mulch, $65/cu.ydWe use our standard Pine Bark Mulch for most gardens, shrub boarders and tree wells. Dark, shredded pine bark mulch — **Pine Bark Mulch,** $**65/cu.yd**
We use our standard **Pine Bark Mulch** for most gardens, shrub boarders and tree wells. Dark, shredded pine bark mulch

Wood chips, $25/cu.yd.We also provide Wood Chips which is perfect for suppressing weeds in uncultivated areas like paths, parking spaces, construction areas. It's best not to use wood chips in planted areas because the fibrous material has not … — **Wood chips, $25/cu.yd.**
We also provide **Wood Chips** which is perfect for suppressing weeds in uncultivated areas like paths, parking spaces, construction areas. It's best not to use wood chips in planted areas because the fibrous material has not broken down yet and in the process of breaking down it burns Nitrogen. Nitrogen is an important nutrient for plants and without it growth will be weak and lacking in chlorophyll turning the leaves yellow. It is useful for suppressing weeds when its freshly put down.

DELIVERY CHARGES

(includes only driver)

WE DELIVER BULK MATERIALS BY CUBIC YARD DUMPED ON SITE. WE ALSO DELIVER AND PLANT TREES AND SHURUBS!

1-4 yards to West Tisbury $65/trip

1-4 yards to other island towns $90/trip*

5-7 yards to West Tisbury $75/trip

5-7 yards to other island towns $100/trip*

*Trips to Chappy are billed hourly for labor, trucking, materials and ferry fees

*Tree/Shrub delivery and/or planting ask for fee schedule information page

TRAVELING THROUGH TASTE

April 6, 2018 Karen Logan

Traveling is an amazing way to ignite the senses! The smells, tastes and colors that line the streets get logged into your memory and last a lifetime. On Chris and Chuck Wiley's recent adventure through Thailand they immersed themselves in the local culture and cuisine of Chiang Mai, the largest city in Northern Thailand. The city has over 300 Buddhist Temples ("Wat" in Thai) and is in close proximity to the Ping River, as well as beautiful national parks. While in Chiang Mai, Chris and Chuck took a cooking class to immerse themselves in the Thai cuisine and learn about the produce and herbs grown in Thailand. They explored the local market to purchase fresh ingredients for the feast. They made curry pastes from scratch and proceeded to make multiple Thai dishes. An experience and flavor of a lifetime! (Recipes at the end of post).

A few weeks later I was lucky enough to explore the local produce markets in southern Thailand with them. Chris was excited to see and taste anything that was new and different. She brings that same enthusiasm for life with her to Vineyard Gardens Nursery. She loves exposing her customers to a variety of edibles that they may not know. Her excitement for edibles is contagious which encourages customers to push their boundaries and try to plant a new flavor. Experiencing something different in your garden can help you grow as an individual as you are helping your plants grow!

SOME EXAMPLES OF THE COOL WEATHER CROPS AVAILABLE AT VINEYARD GARDENS AND READY TO BE PLANTED TODAY. (Warm weather crops will be available in May)

Now that spring is here it may be fun to experiment with new edibles in your garden or at your dinner table. The edibles from Vineyard Gardens can take you around the world in one dining experience from Asian salads to Portuguese kale soups to Thai curries. We will be selling many varieties of Asian greens, Chinese cabbage, bok choy, kale, mustards, collards, lettuce, swiss Chard, broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts, leeks, onions and celery. We are also seeding jiffy pots of two pea varieties, the shelling kind and snow peas. Cool weather veggies packs are now available through the end of May. It's important to start getting these cool weather loving veggies in the ground and also a great time to plant strawberries, asparagus and other small fruit like blueberries and raspberries. Talk to Vineyard Gardens for specific planting guidelines.

Below are links to a couple recipes to get you started on your cooking journey.

THAI RED CURRY WITH KALE

KALE SOUP WITH POTATOES AND SAUSAGE

RECIPES FROM THE CHIANG MAI COOKING CLASS

SOLAR POWERING VINEYARD GARDENS PRODUCTION FACILITY

March 23, 2018 Karen Logan

Vineyard Gardens production facility in West Tisbury is in the final stages of installing a parking canopy complete with solar arrays. As an avid environmentalist the goal to source alternative energy for Vineyard Gardens has been a long held objective for co-owner Chuck Wiley. Now that the technology has become more readily available and the concern for climate change has heightened, Chuck knew it was time to make this happen.

Chuck built Vineyard Gardens from a summer seasonal landscape business service back in the 80’s to one of the largest and most respected Landscape/Garden Centers on Island. He was an early adopter of recycling, composting and natural gardening methods. To achieve his objective of an alternative energy source Chuck teamed up with John Guadagno and Rob Meyers at South Mountain Co. The folks at South Mountain have been involved in environmental design and development here on the Island for decades. Chuck felt they were the best choice to head this project because of their reputation as well as a desire to stick with a local company, who would be readily available if something should arise. He explains, “As far as the environmental impact, the only arbiter was the town and South Mountain knew what to do, what to say and what to ask for." This project had a lot of people working on it, South Mountain, Brissette Electric, Keene Bros. and various other subs.

This newly installed 25 feet high, 40 feet wide, 75 feet long parking canopy is constructed of steel I-beams with deep concrete footings held together with giant bolts. The roof is 3,000 square feet with six parking spaces below. Chuck explains, “The size and location was dictated by how much sun exposure we are able to get and that covers nearly 100% of my usage. It was a no-brainer. I actually didn't lose any space. I didn’t really lose any planting area under it and the cars used to overheat sitting out there, so it really serves our needs.”

The panels will collect energy from the sun every day and will transmit it to transformers that will produce enough power to offset the usage of Vineyard Gardens two commercial growing facilities. Chuck states, “It will generate a conservative estimate of 52 kilowatts of power a year. And between the nursery (VG 1) and the production site (VG 2) we use about 55kw so it should cover nearly 100% of our usage” He discusses how they use a lot more energy in the summer than in the winter. The large consumption of energy in the summer comes from the cooling fans in the greenhouses and the water pumps. Furthermore, “During the winter months when we are not consuming that energy the power goes into a meter so we’re feeding energy back into the grid, a net usage of zero. If things are going great, there could be excess generated.”

The cost of the project is $272,000 dollars. Chuck explained, “I applied for a $20 thousand dollar Rural Energy for America Program Grant from the USDA. I spent an incredible amount of time trying to get it.” Holding up a file folder more than an inch thick of paperwork he states “This is my USDA file. They accepted my application but they haven’t given me any money yet. They wanted everything. I had to show that it wasn’t on an anthropological site, didn’t have an Indian Burial Ground. I had to show them all my math and that there were no better, cost effective alternatives. They wanted an environmental review and so on.” He explains how he did not realize what an undertaking it would be to apply for this yet he says, “I could have done this project without all this paperwork, but the reason this project makes sense is that there are government incentives. If I were to have to pay for this without the incentives the payback period would be much longer and would not make as much sense.” He goes on to say that he was able to get a loan from Cape Cod 5 who has done previous loans for solar arrays and that in ten years, in theory, this project should pay for itself.

Overall Chuck says, “This is a good thing for me because it’s paying for itself but just the thought of doing anything that will cut down on our coal, oil or gas usage is huge to me. This has been a very important part of my life.” As far as maintenance goes, “It's near zero. There are some electrical components that may have to be replaced after twenty plus years, but for the most part its supposedly maintenance free. I’d love to see millions of these across the world. As long as they could pay for themselves, I don’t know why you wouldn’t do it And if we create enough of them maybe we won’t need those other forms of energy.” Ultimately he is extremely happy with his decision and recommends it 100%!